Chain grinder issues

[Iaff113]

Anyone ever have their chain grinder not stay on once you press the on button. If you hold the on button it will run as soon as you let off it dies. Figured it was the on/off switch so I bought a new one. Well that one does the same thing.

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[Wood Doctor]

Both of my grinders use a simpler rocker switch. If both of your switches failed, likely the problem is elsewhere, such as a bad wire or connection, or once again you got a bad switch. You may wish to PM Philbert, who is the forum's expert on chain grinders and see what he has to say.

You may want to try hooking up a simple light switch in a switch box and see if it works. If it does, then likely both your switches are defective.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

What brand grinde4? Does it have a start & run capacitor? Sounds like the run capita tor is bad.

 

[Iaff113]

Yeah it has on cbb60 capacitor. It’s just the 100 one out of northern tool.


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[Patrick62]

I hate to be the one to say it... but it needs said:
get a real grinder.
The 511 Oregon (or equivalent) has better repeatable accuracy.
if the thing you have has a capacitor on a winding in there.... it might be able to be setup to reverse for the left side cutters... I can explain. I have modified several of the oregon grinders to reverse (makes a much nicer sharpen on the left cutters) with a DPDT switch and some electrical magic.

 

[sbhooper]

My files work without a hitch.

 

[Iaff113]

I hate to be the one to say it... but it needs said:
get a real grinder.
The 511 Oregon (or equivalent) has better repeatable accuracy.
if the thing you have has a capacitor on a winding in there.... it might be able to be setup to reverse for the left side cutters... I can explain. I have modified several of the oregon grinders to reverse (makes a much nicer sharpen on the left cutters) with a DPDT switch and some electrical magic.

I was waiting for this answer hahaha I have been looking at the Oregon’s for a while now, just haven’t pulled the trigger I have had this sharpener now for 5 years or so, so I have gotten good use out of it. Is the 410 or 420 any decent. I’m not sharpening tons of chains. At a time, just a weekend cutter.


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[Wood Doctor]

I was waiting for this answer hahaha I have been looking at the Oregon’s for a while now, just haven’t pulled the trigger I have had this sharpener now for 5 years or so, so I have gotten good use out of it. Is the 410 or 420 any decent. I’m not sharpening tons of chains. At a time, just a weekend cutter.
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I also have the Intertek Laser that I bought for dirt cheap and it has a green/red button switch like yours. Never have had any trouble with it. Dang thing has a hard time locking the chain in place, so I seldom use it except when the others are down for one reason or another.

 

[Patrick62]

I don't know about the 410/420, but for the price? One of the issues is the smaller wheel. Leaves a slight radius in the cutter (would it help?).
The 511 that I use can produce a decent cutter but it takes patience and practice.
I do some sharpening for retail, I do actually try and get them "pretty darn good". That being said, when I am done grinding and the chain is decent it gets two strokes with a file to clean up, and get it "damn good". It needs to fly right into that next rock!!

 

[Skeans]

The 510 511 Oregon grinders are not super accurate or repeatable side to side with the design of the vise vs say a Silvey 510 or 500.
If you're not grinding any harvester chains .404
.080 or 3/4 11BC or 11H are you really gaining enough to notice for your guys firewood uses? My personal answer is no you're not after speed or exact cuts like a faller.
If this grinder has gone this long for you why not get another one.

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[Philbert]

Sorry, not very good with electrical issues. Some switches have safety features that cut out if there is loss of power or a short, but not sure that an inexpensive grinder would have that.

If you replace the tool, you will likely be disappointed if you go to a smaller size motor, or smaller diameter wheel after using that one for 5 years.

Philbert

 

[c5rulz]

I hate to be the one to say it... but it needs said:
get a real grinder.
The 511 Oregon (or equivalent) has better repeatable accuracy.
if the thing you have has a capacitor on a winding in there.... it might be able to be setup to reverse for the left side cutters... I can explain. I have modified several of the oregon grinders to reverse (makes a much nicer sharpen on the left cutters) with a DPDT switch and some electrical magic.

I don't know that I would say an Oregon 511AX, (which I have) is a better grinder than a Tecomec clone. They are made by the same company. The 511AX has a lot of flex in the grinder body when it hits the stop. The cheap Tecomec is a better casting in that regard. That reminds me of a project that has been sitting a couple years where a good friend did some machine work for me and converted the Tecomec to a Silvey 510 style vice. We are going to get an ice storm today so maybe I will putz with it later and get it going. If it works like I think, the 511AX will go down the road.

For the OP, Try bypassing the switch and wire the leads directly and shut off with the cord to see if you problem goes away. If it doesn't, give the wheel a spin and see if it starts when plugged in.

 

[Iaff113]

I don't know that I would say an Oregon 511AX, (which I have) is a better grinder than a Tecomec clone. They are made by the same company. The 511AX has a lot of flex in the grinder body when it hits the stop. The cheap Tecomec is a better casting in that regard. That reminds me of a project that has been sitting a couple years where a good friend did some machine work for me and converted the Tecomec to a Silvey 510 style vice. We are going to get an ice storm today so maybe I will putz with it later and get it going. If it works like I think, the 511AX will go down the road.

For the OP, Try bypassing the switch and wire the leads directly and shut off with the cord to see if you problem goes away. If it doesn't, give the wheel a spin and see if it starts when plugged in.

Yup works perfect when wired together with out the switch


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[user 122190]

I've had a $100 clone now for over 4 years with only one minor problem that was an easy fix. Unless you are running a saw shop and have the grinder running most of the day, the clones work fine.

I was waiting for this answer hahaha I have been looking at the Oregon’s for a while now, just haven’t pulled the trigger I have had this sharpener now for 5 years or so, so I have gotten good use out of it. Is the 410 or 420 any decent. I’m not sharpening tons of chains. At a time, just a weekend cutter.


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[Philbert]

I don't know that I would say an Oregon 511AX . . . is a better grinder than a Tecomec clone. They are made by the same company.

I would not classify a Tecomec as a 'clone'. As you note, manufactured by the same company, with the same quality, but with different appearance, and sometimes different features.

Price differences are due to marketing, support, etc.

'Clone' grinders IMO are the cheap ($70 -$130), 'look-alike' versions. Quality differences noted in many threads here on A.S.

Unless you are running a saw shop and have the grinder running most of the day, the clones work fine.

Or, unless you appreciate the differences!

Yup works perfect when wired together with out the switch.

So, either the switch(es), or a fault that the switches are sensitive to.

Philbert

 

[Iaff113]

I’m just going to wire them together and cut the switch out of it.


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[Philbert]

I’m just going to wire them together and cut the switch out of it.

Might want to put some type of 120V switch in there somewhere so that you can turn it on/off conveniently, and quickly if needed.

Philbert

 

[Iaff113]

The plug it is plugged into, is within hands distant from my chair. Thats the only reason I wasn’t worried about the switch.


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[Wood Doctor]

RedNeck solution: Hot wire the switch so that when plugged in, the motor starts. sharpen all your chains. Pull the plug when finished. Still need a switch? Plug it into a switched outlet. Done.

 

[Iaff113]

RedNeck solution: Hot wire the switch so that when plugged in, the motor starts. sharpen all your chains. Pull the plug when finished. Still need a switch? Plug it into a switched outlet. Done.

Yeah that’s just about what I did works just like new.


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