chain lubricant
- Thread starter lostone
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Kneejerk Bombas
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The difference in rounding over the raker is small and it's not as important when the cutter is new. You want the raker to be like a little ski and slide over the wood. If it has a sharp corner at the leading edge it will catch on the wood fibers and change the path the cutter takes through the wood, as well as causing a bit of friction.
You need to know that the cutter porposes through the wood, so the angle the raker hits the wood is slightly greater than while it's sitting on the bar.
Look at the raker, imagining the cutter is tilted back 30 thousanths of an inch and determine if it's going to drag. If so, round it over a little.
A smooth cutting chain is the result of a combination of all the factors of the chain, bar, and saw.
You need to know that the cutter porposes through the wood, so the angle the raker hits the wood is slightly greater than while it's sitting on the bar.
Look at the raker, imagining the cutter is tilted back 30 thousanths of an inch and determine if it's going to drag. If so, round it over a little.
A smooth cutting chain is the result of a combination of all the factors of the chain, bar, and saw.
You want the rear of the "raker" to be the highest point on it so that when you draw a line straight across the top front of the cutter to the top of the "raker", its rear is touching that line. If you get a Husky depth gauge guide and use it, that will be automatically taken care of and each "raker" will be properly set for each tooth, even when the cutter teeth vary in length along the chain. The file guide works admirably on Stihl chain as well as the Oregon which comes stock on Husky, Dolmar, et al. I don't have experience with it on Carlton, and I understand the Carlton File-o-plate doesn't work as well on other brands (again, no first-hand experience on that pont, yet).
Glen
Glen
Stumper
One Man Band
Lostone, The blue on the rakers may not mean anything-some chain comes with heat blueing new from the factory. I don't doubt that you were running hot and consequently gummed the chain due to the high rakers (depth gauges). A lot of tooth is gone for only 2 sharpenings. Did you dull it badly or was the saw shop heavy handed w/the grinder? You already got good info on the rounding of depth gauges.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Raker Profile; A basically flat top or more precisely as Glen states, parallell with a line from top of cutter to top of raker, is what you are looking for. The rounding over as Mike points out, helps prevent dig in of the raker affecting kickback tendency. This is what affects cutting in the middle of the bar. But boring and nose cutting is affected very greatly by the shape of the raker. The geometry of the raker profile, especially the forward projection relative to the front rivet, results in a different relative raker clearance when the chain is bent into the radius of the nose. If you have tried different brands of chain you will know there is a big difference in boring capability. Some that do not bore really well out of the box, will absolutely refuse to cut over the nose after a few sharpenings if you merely lower the tips of the raker. To properly and consistanly regulate the raker shape for boring is a little different study. There is more there than meets the eye at first glance.
Frank
Frank
The shop I took it to had it out of even (from one side to the other) really bad, I had to lay the file to it on one side pretty heavy to try and even them up. but even on that there not perfect but alot closer than what they had them.
046
had this 5 years was my first bigger stihl,switching from 394.not one thing has gone wrong. still the original bar although it needs replacing very soon.i would hate to think of the hardwood its cut.the worst over here are stringy barked eucs, make your chain run and dull when its fine, and drag every bit of lube out.i only use good oil.and never use dull.
had this 5 years was my first bigger stihl,switching from 394.not one thing has gone wrong. still the original bar although it needs replacing very soon.i would hate to think of the hardwood its cut.the worst over here are stringy barked eucs, make your chain run and dull when its fine, and drag every bit of lube out.i only use good oil.and never use dull.
