Chain matchs bar?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

safeT1st

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
214
Reaction score
25
Location
Interior British Columbia
Viewing posts here I realize there is alot more to matching chains to bars than I ever knew. Would someone please post a brief, concise summary of the factors involved.I bought a used 066w and as the previous owner couldn't start it I can't even be sure the chain is correct. 26" Cannon Superbar (made in Can.) and Stihl 3/8 chain. No other markings evident. I have seen talk of pitch,rail maintenance and various dimensions relating to fit. A summary would be most appreciated. I would like to inspect the bar myself but do not know what to look for other than straight and tip sprocket free. What about a suggestion regarding chain manufacterer for this saw. The saw itself is in excellent condition and runs well at idle and full throttle. Thanks for any input.
 
If you do a search on chain gauge, ou find reading for hours!!!

Basicly, you have "pitch" and "gauge". Pitch is the distance between the drive links, what the sprocket on the saw cares about.

Now the bar needs to match pitch, due to the roller tip, if it has one, and gauge. Gauge is the thickness of the "tang" or driver on the chain. The part that hangs below and is driven by the sprocket of the saw. This needs to match the bar rail width. You have .050, .058 and, .063 as standard gauge nowdays. Normal pitch is .325, .375 and, .404. The oddities out now are PM, PMN, 3/8" Lo Pro etc. Older ones were .500, .750 and, .250.
Without numbers, or some way to measure it properly, no way to tell what you have going on!
Clear as mudd? Good;)
 
If you do a search on chain gauge, ou find reading for hours!!!

Basicly, you have "pitch" and "gauge". Pitch is the distance between the drive links, what the sprocket on the saw cares about.

Now the bar needs to match pitch, due to the roller tip, if it has one, and gauge. Gauge is the thickness of the "tang" or driver on the chain. The part that hangs below and is driven by the sprocket of the saw. This needs to match the bar rail width. You have .050, .058 and, .063 as standard gauge nowdays. Normal pitch is .325, .375 and, .404. The oddities out now are PM, PMN, 3/8" Lo Pro etc. Older ones were .500, .750 and, .250.
Without numbers, or some way to measure it properly, no way to tell what you have going on!
Clear as mudd? Good;)

don't forget .043 gauge too. 1.1mm verses 1.3mm .050 gauge? used on 3/8 lo pro and some newer 325 I think?
-Ralph
 
Pitch and gauge

I've determined the pitch to be .375 which fits snugly in drive and tip sprocket. .050 stackup of feeler gauges runs smooth and snug around bar hence .050 gauge bar. Drivers vary from .042 to .049 thus a match to bar. Bar has light but consistent blueing around perimeter to the same depth as rails and one rail only has a substantial outboard burr running from base 1/2 way to tip.Is the blueing a result of manufacturing and considered normal and should I clean up rails using a stone? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
 
Blueing is from pinching the bar and heating it, not from manufacture. I just use a raker file for bars myself.
 
I've determined the pitch to be .375 which fits snugly in drive and tip sprocket. .050 stackup of feeler gauges runs smooth and snug around bar hence .050 gauge bar. Drivers vary from .042 to .049 thus a match to bar. Bar has light but consistent blueing around perimeter to the same depth as rails and one rail only has a substantial outboard burr running from base 1/2 way to tip.Is the blueing a result of manufacturing and considered normal and should I clean up rails using a stone? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Sounds like you are a bit smarter than you come across!!! (that's a compliment!!)

Blueing is a sign of wear, but it doesn't sound like it's that bad yet, don't be afraid to crank the oiler up a bit more. A stone to dress out the rails is a very good idea, knock off the burr, and polish it smooth. Most on here use a file, but I am understanding you're background and a stone will leave a nicer finish.
 
subject now clear

Great help and grateful.Really don't see how I came across as less smart.Imho I write well, have pulled wrenches for 25 years and am not afraid to ask if I don't know.I've seen many people get themselves in a jam because they didn't have the guts to ask. Thanks for the compliment.
 
Sorry, it's an implication of the name, that is a name you would expect "saftey Sam" to have, never worked on anything, but figures if you go slow and steady enough, you can't get hurt. But he's out there plugging away with his 20 year old electric chainsaw, no glasses or other PPE.

You no longer strike me as that type.
 
Whats in a name

You are obviously a bigger man than that 1" by 1" photo led me to believe. That's pretty funny about the safety guy. I can just picture him now. I chose the name safeT1st so the members might realize I don't take any of this business lightly. This is dangerous ground to tread on ( or tree to climb in) and some of you guys do it everyday. You all have my respect .
 
Don't forget. .375x.050 is 3/8x.050
They changed the measurement to mess with folks heads:dizzy:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top