Chain Saw Lanyard and Safety

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I think that the good outweighs the bad with chainsaw lanyards.

I will also say that the bungee lanyards are not rated for much more weight than a trim saw...
 
I would like to know some pros thoughts on the length of chain saw lanyards. I have heard two schools of thought.

1) A short (6in) lanyard keeps the saw close to the body so it is less likely to get hung up but puts the saw blade against the body.

2) A long (49in) lanyard keeps the saw down below the feet away from the body but is then subject to hang ups.

What are your thoughts on proper length? Are there any rules governing the length?

I appreciate your thoughts!

I use a short strap on a large non locking 'biner for clipping my saw close to my body but also have a quick release lanyard that's 3' long on my harness that I can hang it from.

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I honestly agree with a couple things troy said here. I don't use a lanyard on my saws either, and i've never liked the "chucking" the saw mentality. I climb with a bigger saw-hate having to reel the thing in from below me as it's dangling off the lanyard and having a 395 hit the the end of a lanyard is a worse shock on the body in my opinion than any ride i've ever taken in a tree. It gets hooked into a ladder snap right on the belt when not in use.
As for the groundman safety issue, perhaps, but usually when my saw is unhooked, the groundies shouldn't be under me anyway because things larger than a saw are about to drop from the sky.
 
When I did all crane work I used an 038 with no lanyard. The owner (my boss) at that time did not want me cutting big wood with the saw attached to me. That was back before the break away bungee lanyards (or at least before either of us knew about them). I would just clip my saw to a ladder snap as BW described. These days I like to use the break away bungee lanyards with the two rings so I can clip it in short or long to an aluminum biner on my saddle. I am not big on dropping my saw on the lanyard either. With a larger saw it can break a breakaway lanyard right into. I try to be more controlled than I was when I was younger when I would cut and just get rid of the saw as fast as I could and hang on. On spar cuts with the large saws I can clip them in to my saddle and break the wood over with a snap cut 99% of the time. If I need to get rid of the saw and hang on I usually have time to grab a hold of the lanyard and ease the saw down before I have to grab a hold and hang on. But like I said, I like to climb a little more controlled than I did when I was younger and less experienced. I don't like Oh #### moments.
 
I can't see using a lanyard of more then a few inches on a top handle saw(ie: 200T) The very nature of movements you use while trimming would be greatly hampered if it had to stay attached to a long lanyard. Being clipped to your saddle makes it easy and less fatiguing, sense your grabbing for it non-stop and all day on some jobs. On rear handle saws I use a long enough lanyard i can cut either right or left handed effectively or pass it behind my back. On conifers I often keep my saw running while its hanging as I go up a few feet to the next set of branches(not so with a top handle saw on my hip).
I always stress to my groundman when sending up a big saw on a lanyard, not to send it up by the lanyard, so I can safely hook the lanyard to my belt before untying it from the rope. Dropping a saw on a groundie would mess his day up.
I have seen a few times in my life a big saw go over with the top, leaving only the handle hooked to the lanyard on the climbers belt, so a break a way lanyard could be a good thing, and I have a few times my self cut a big branch and have it rip my top handle trimming saw out of my hand, and though embarrassing, I am glad I wasn't using a lanyard. I have always made my lanyards out of 1/2in three strand rope, but if I was to buy one I think it would be one with the two rings so you could shorten it up some times if need. Beastmaster
 
I can't see using a lanyard of more then a few inches on a top handle saw(ie: 200T) The very nature of movements you use while trimming would be greatly hampered if it had to stay attached to a long lanyard. Being clipped to your saddle makes it easy and less fatiguing, sense your grabbing for it non-stop and all day on some jobs. On rear handle saws I use a long enough lanyard i can cut either right or left handed effectively or pass it behind my back. On conifers I often keep my saw running while its hanging as I go up a few feet to the next set of branches(not so with a top handle saw on my hip).
I always stress to my groundman when sending up a big saw on a lanyard, not to send it up by the lanyard, so I can safely hook the lanyard to my belt before untying it from the rope. Dropping a saw on a groundie would mess his day up.
I have seen a few times in my life a big saw go over with the top, leaving only the handle hooked to the lanyard on the climbers belt, so a break a way lanyard could be a good thing, and I have a few times my self cut a big branch and have it rip my top handle trimming saw out of my hand, and though embarrassing, I am glad I wasn't using a lanyard. I have always made my lanyards out of 1/2in three strand rope, but if I was to buy one I think it would be one with the two rings so you could shorten it up some times if need. Beastmaster

All of the comments are interesting. I typically have someone working below me grabbing branches or rigging up. For this reason I always have a break away on my saw unless I am in the bucket. It should be noted for new guys and stupid people that if you make a non break away lanyard it would be wise to know the breaking strength of it! particularly if you are using older saws that are made of metal they are much stronger than the new ones and tend to hurt real bad should you get one stuck in a top. That's just my 2 cents worth for those that care.
 
I've been using a Buckingham tearaway lanyard for a little while and have found it works well. It extends and retracts comfortably, is bright yellow (so it can be seen easily) and it comes in several lengths.
 
I use a short strap on a large non locking 'biner for clipping my saw close to my body but also have a quick release lanyard that's 3' long on my harness that I can hang it from.

6156907275_72acec7dd8_b.jpg

Looks like it might be time to consider replacing the rope on your lanyard (personal safety lanyard not your saw lanyard) Looks a little frayed in the picture. I was thinking about doing something similar to what you have on your saw lanyard though. Instead of a ring to shorten it it put a non locking carabiner on there instead. then you can hang it on whatever gear loop on whatever side is convienient/ergonomic, not just on your hip mounted caritool or whatever you have.

And as far as using a saw completely unclipped, never done it, ever. Just the thought of my 200T splattering on the ground into a million pieces of plastic makes me sick. If I am making a cut where I think it is likely the saw will get taken away with the branch I will girth hitch a sling to the tree and clip my saw lanyard to that. That way if the saw gets torn from my grasp the tree will hang on to it for me and I will be out of harms way. Worst case is a new bar and chain and that is way cheaper than a whole new 200T.
 
I like to keep that saw as close to my hip as possible otherwise when im using it its not attached to me. Have never dropped a saw out of the tree except for the first time I ever climbed and that was because I didn't have it clipped right.
 
Looks like it might be time to consider replacing the rope on your lanyard (personal safety lanyard not your saw lanyard) Looks a little frayed in the picture. I was thinking about doing something similar to what you have on your saw lanyard though. Instead of a ring to shorten it it put a non locking carabiner on there instead. then you can hang it on whatever gear loop on whatever side is convienient/ergonomic, not just on your hip mounted caritool or whatever you have.

And as far as using a saw completely unclipped, never done it, ever. Just the thought of my 200T splattering on the ground into a million pieces of plastic makes me sick. If I am making a cut where I think it is likely the saw will get taken away with the branch I will girth hitch a sling to the tree and clip my saw lanyard to that. That way if the saw gets torn from my grasp the tree will hang on to it for me and I will be out of harms way. Worst case is a new bar and chain and that is way cheaper than a whole new 200T.

Yeah and never mind about all the sawdust in his boots. That sucks getting sawdust in your boots!
 
Looks like it might be time to consider replacing the rope on your lanyard (personal safety lanyard not your saw lanyard) Looks a little frayed in the picture. I was thinking about doing something similar to what you have on your saw lanyard though. Instead of a ring to shorten it it put a non locking carabiner on there instead. then you can hang it on whatever gear loop on whatever side is convienient/ergonomic, not just on your hip mounted caritool or whatever you have.

And as far as using a saw completely unclipped, never done it, ever. Just the thought of my 200T splattering on the ground into a million pieces of plastic makes me sick. If I am making a cut where I think it is likely the saw will get taken away with the branch I will girth hitch a sling to the tree and clip my saw lanyard to that. That way if the saw gets torn from my grasp the tree will hang on to it for me and I will be out of harms way. Worst case is a new bar and chain and that is way cheaper than a whole new 200T.

And hey are those track pants rated for saw work? Workers Compensation would find this photo incriminating to say the least! You know I always remind my girls that putting photos of themselves on the internet is like toothpaste. Once you squeeze it out the crap will never go back in. So please people if you are going to show photos of the right way to do stuff try not to incriminate yourself in the process.
 
Lanyards keep the groundman safer than anything, also if it hits the fan you can drop your saw in a hot minute and make out OK.

Let them take care of themselves on that one. If you can't tell when a saw could be coming at you them just stay away till you are called in.


Its not wise to hook a solid link from your hip to your saw. Bad idea. Even if your are using a breakaway the force will pull you with the limb and saw while cutting. Don't want none of that never nope.

The only other time you could lose a saw is while swinging so a climber should have a proper rig so it don't pop out.

Saws love to jump out of these brass clips.


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Let them take care of themselves on that one. If you can't tell when a saw could be coming at you them just stay away till you are called in.


Its not wise to hook a solid link from your hip to your saw. Bad idea. Even if your are using a breakaway the force will pull you with the limb and saw while cutting. Don't want none of that never nope.

The only other time you could lose a saw is while swinging so a climber should have a proper rig so it don't pop out.

Saws love to jump out of these brass clips.


008-4.jpg

Admittedly you will be yanked a tad if a tree decides to steal your saw while connected to a tear away strap BUT they WILL break before the webbing in the harness will or the flip line that is around the tree. It is the weakest link and designed to be so for a reason.
 
Admittedly you will be yanked a tad if a tree decides to steal your saw while connected to a tear away strap BUT they WILL break before the webbing in the harness will or the flip line that is around the tree. It is the weakest link and designed to be so for a reason.

And when it yanks ya you'll be thinking bout a steak dinner and some hair pie, then you just think you really wish you weren't being yanked like that and never wish it again.
 
And when it yanks ya you'll be thinking bout a steak dinner and some hair pie, then you just think you really wish you weren't being yanked like that and never wish it again.

But lets get real here if you know what you are doing and know how to make a proper cut that won't happen. If you are leaving the saw in the part of the tree that is falling you are not cutting the tree properly and should NOT be in the tree in the first place. When making a cut in a tree a certain amount of attention to detail must be observed. All tree workers should be fluent in the art and science of cutting a tree from the ground BEFORE they attempt it off the ground. There is no safe place for stupid people in the tree business.
 
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