chain sharpening debats and questions

[daddycoop]

I have 2nd best oregon chain sharpener and I do all my own chains, I usually use oregon 72LPX070G type, thats 3/8 .050 chain.

Now the questions are Oregon states it likes a 10 degree down with a 55 degree angle with 25 degrees on the cutter.

You guys ever vary these numbers like would a 0 degree cut better than a 10 or visa versa, or a 25 degree verses a 30 , I mean the numbers here are limitless, HOW DO YOU KNOW these are the best cutting numbers for you and your saw, I use this saw on a 60 cc echo.

But not knowing which is better when it comes to angles is a brainer to me, I always use what is specified BUT that does NOT mean something else is not faster or better? How would one know this???????????

 

[ctrees4$]

I like 60 on the angle and 30 on the cutter,also stop the rock just before it touches the link. Don't forget to take some off the drag.

 

[mckeetree]

I like 60 on the angle and 30 on the cutter,also stop the rock just before it touches the link. Don't forget to take some off the drag.

I like 60/30 but I can file one so sharp and long lasting it would make many on here piss their pants.

 

[treevet]

Novices generally lose track of importance of drags/rakers. I usually take a tad of the rakers on new chain. But then again I am a magician with a chainsaw. Not advisable for a beginner.

 

[sgreanbeans]

55/31 (not really 31 exactly, I put the angle finder on the far side of 30) nice and sharp, I check the depth gauge every time, when it becomes debatable, I do it, check it with the feeler gauge, .025
I still want one of those nice sharping wheels, but they are so freakin expensive


A long time ago, I took some chains into a hardware store to get sharpened, I told the guy to check the depth gauges, he took them all the way down! Had my F-I-L pick them up and one of the guys put one on my 066,so I never seen them, later I grabbed it and launched it into a trunk, dug in an stuck! I was thinking WTF did I hit! Took me a bit to get it out, he ruined all that I took him, went back to store owner and he replaced them all! Made me think how many others he did this way!

 

[treevet]

55/31 (not really 31 exactly, I put the angle finder on the far side of 30) nice and sharp, I check the depth gauge every time, when it becomes debatable, I do it, check it with the feeler gauge, .025
I still want one of those nice sharping wheels, but they are so freakin expensive

I only use my Stihl grinder for rakers. Machines take the temper outta the steel on cutters and that's n/g.

 

[imagineero]

the 10 degrees really ends up being more trouble that its worth if you are hand sharpening. 0 degree drop works just fine.

Not a lot of difference between 25 and 30 on the top plate, 30 will be a bit more agressive but not really noticeable and will blunt a little sooner, more susceptible to rock damage.

Same with hook angle. Steeper is less agressive and will last longer.

What measurements you use don't matter so much as using that measurement consistently. getting all your cutters with the same angles (and same cutter length!) is the first step towards sharp chain nirvana. Once you get there, and can get your rakers consistent too, you can start looking into 25 vs 30 etc.

Every single cutter I sharpen is a work of art, and perfect in every way. My sharpening is made of the mystical magical magic that magic makers make up.

Shaun

 

[treevet]

the 10 degrees really ends up being more trouble that its worth if you are hand sharpening. 0 degree drop works just fine.

Not a lot of difference between 25 and 30 on the top plate, 30 will be a bit more agressive but not really noticeable and will blunt a little sooner, more susceptible to rock damage.

Same with hook angle. Steeper is less agressive and will last longer.

What measurements you use don't matter so much as using that measurement consistently. getting all your cutters with the same angles (and same cutter length!) is the first step towards sharp chain nirvana. Once you get there, and can get your rakers consistent too, you can start looking into 25 vs 30 etc.

Every single cutter I sharpen is a work of art, and perfect in every way. My sharpening is made of the mystical magical magic that magic makers make up.

Shaun

great but ps. rakers can be consistent and still hinder or block the cutter if too high. Consistent in the cutter....spot on.

 

[treevet]

the 10 degrees really ends up being more trouble that its worth if you are hand sharpening. 0 degree drop works just fine.

Not a lot of difference between 25 and 30 on the top plate, 30 will be a bit more agressive but not really noticeable and will blunt a little sooner, more susceptible to rock damage.

Same with hook angle. Steeper is less agressive and will last longer.

What measurements you use don't matter so much as using that measurement consistently. getting all your cutters with the same angles (and same cutter length!) is the first step towards sharp chain nirvana. Once you get there, and can get your rakers consistent too, you can start looking into 25 vs 30 etc.

Every single cutter I sharpen is a work of art, and perfect in every way. My sharpening is made of the mystical magical magic that magic makers make up.

Shaun

great but ps. rakers can be consistent and still hinder or block the cutter if too high. Consistent in the cutter....spot on.

Wood you are cutting predominantly should dictate the angle

 

[sgreanbeans]

We have a new Tree Guy Saying: Sharp Cain Nirvana! I love it, as I know what ya mean, when ya lay into something and it gives ya goose bumps its so sharp!