Best way to eliminate all these tools is my eyeball. Guesstimate until you get good at it. 5/32 will sharpen any chain. Spent a whole day with those files only on 3/8RS and 404LX. Depth of the cutters sharpening didn't matter. Getting 1/5 above the top plate to set the hook angle correctly on 404 cutters produce the same chip as larger files cutting lower and using more of the tooth area.Just to show I ‘practice what I preach’: different file guides for different diameter files / different pitch chains.
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Philbert
Just to show I ‘practice what I preach’: different file guides for different diameter files / different pitch chains.
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Philbert
Best way to eliminate all these tools is my eyeball. Guesstimate until you get good at it. 5/32 will sharpen any chain. Spent a whole day with those files only on 3/8RS and 404LX. Depth of the cutters sharpening didn't matter. Getting 1/5 above the top plate to set the hook angle correctly on 404 cutters produce the same chip as larger files cutting lower and using more of the tooth area.
Depth gauges I've always done by sight with a straightedge or my file across the top.
The cheek height does not matter. The thickness of the tooth at the top does and the angle. The tooth will cut just the same but may not move chip as fast. You are taking a 0.030 slice off or less of the wood and severing the fibers just the same on the side plate regardless of the height of said sideplate.Now I've never done any testing at all of your suggestion, but a smaller file will NOT sharpen as much of the "cheek" on a cutter as the larger file will. We all know that the cheek plate needs to be sharp as well as the top, and that the gullet size needs to be adequate for the flow of the chips.
I'd suggest that you can sharpen all chains with the smaller file, but they might perform a bit better with the properly sized file. On top of that, the larger file probably has slightly larger teeth, it certainly has a bit larger surface area, and will probably sharpen that big tooth a little faster and easier.
I was wondering about how that worked (or as it turns out doesn't work), thanks for clarifyingThe file holder positions the file correctly, but you need a different file holder for each diameter file. This kit ‘dumbs it down’, to complete with kits sold by some other companies.
Fine if you have the experience, not something I'd recommend to many people in the OP's positionBest way to eliminate all these tools is my eyeball. Guesstimate until you get good at it. 5/32 will sharpen any chain. Spent a whole day with those files only on 3/8RS and 404LX. Depth of the cutters sharpening didn't matter. Getting 1/5 above the top plate to set the hook angle correctly on 404 cutters produce the same chip as larger files cutting lower and using more of the tooth area.
Depth gauges I've always done by sight with a straightedge or my file across the top.
The cheek height does not matter. The thickness of the tooth at the top does and the angle. The tooth will cut just the same but may not move chip as fast. You are taking a 0.030 slice off or less of the wood and severing the fibers just the same on the side plate regardless of the height of said sideplate.
Before you bash it try it.
It wasn't a suggestion. It was a day with one file size nothing more.I'm not bashing. Sounds to me like it would work.
That being said, I think it is remarkable that none of the manufacturers mirror your suggestions.
2-1 is good to keep handy if you have novice sharpening chain repeatedly in poor cutting conditions or bucking muddy logs. Takes anyone using it about the same amount of time to sharpen a loop.‘Different strokes, for different folks’!
I’ve often said, ‘Lots of ways to sharpen: everyone has to find something that works for them.’
If someone is happy with their method, and their results: great.
The various jigs, fixtures, guides, etc., help some people get uniform, consistent cutters.
Some guys can do this free-hand. Some consider a guide as a ‘training tool’. Some don’t care, as long as it is ‘good enough’
Philbert
Wasn't experience I was looking for.Fine if you have the experience, not something I'd recommend to many people in the OP's position
and the Oregon file guides are not marked or labeled as such.
I have used the 2-in-1 and gotten OK results. On another site, a lot of people complain that it sets their depth gauges too low.2-1 is good to keep handy if you have novice sharpening chain
Just needed a sharp chain that day and had the wrong tool in the feild onsite.
Don't buy the Stihl version. It is actually made by Pferd. But if you buy the same thing under the Pferd name, you will save about $10. I guess orange plastic costs more than blue.I have the
I have that set but I prefer the Stihl "2 in 1" system. It's a lot more expensive and you will need one for every chain pitch but I get way better results with this tool. You can get them for $45USD on Amazon but I have seen them a little cheaper in local hardware stores. Amazon also sells Chinese knockoffs for considerably less.
As stated above, your saw uses 3/8LP chain, which Stihl calls 3/8 Picco. The P/N is 5605-750-4303
edit: Oh, and the tool dresses the depth gauge at the same time. It's not just more accurate, it's twice as fast.
Pushing down on the 2 in 1 was the only way for me to get any depth gauge cutting after half the tooth is gone. It makes sense those pushing down hard on newer cutters will have an aggressive chain. When the cutters reach their end if life the depth gauges are way too high on my chains.I have used the 2-in-1 and gotten OK results. On another site, a lot of people complain that it sets their depth gauges too low.
Some say they only install the middle file every 3rd sharpening or so.
I wonder if some people put a lot of downward pressure on it, and others more rearward pressure?
If you know what a sharp cutter looks like, you should be able to get there in a number of ways. A smaller file can be moved around quite a bit.
Some people assume that the file / grinder / guide / etc. is responsible for the shape of the finished cutter. No. It’s the person using the tool.
Philbert
This is the number 1 sin I have encountered in my years of chain sharpening, people expecting the tool to give them perfect results all on its own with their input being moving the file to and fro. Very few from my experience actually want to look and see what they are doing with a file or file guide, they just expect the file to make the chain sharp, few know about self feeding chain, more know about dogging in and forcing the chain to grind away at the wood.If you know what a sharp cutter looks like, you should be able to get there in a number of ways. A smaller file can be moved around quite a bit.
Some people assume that the file / grinder / guide / etc. is responsible for the shape of the finished cutter. No. It’s the person using the tool.
Philbert
Now that's interesting! I have always used them level and not noticed any issues. Which manufacturer's instructions tell you to rest the guide on the depth gauge?Holding the guide flat on the top plate (not touching the depth gauge) would provide a more consistent result. It’s how I used to do it, before reading the directions!
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