what is the best way to sharpen chain, hand file, electric table grinder, or hand held rotary tool?
chain sharpening
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tony marks
Addicted to ArboristSite
theres other ways also. the best way iswhat ever way u can get the chain to cut best.
theres angles ,depth gauge and other thing to learn about. just try an redo the chain like it was when u got it new. good luck.
theres angles ,depth gauge and other thing to learn about. just try an redo the chain like it was when u got it new. good luck.
Tree Sling'r
Addicted to ArboristSite
If I just used my saw occasionally I would round file. Once you get the hang of it they cut great and it is cheap. Mess with your rakers and find what works for you. You may be surprised. I see no sense in spending a bunch of money on stuff that is not all that nessecary. I have a $2000 Silvey grinder, but use it everyday. It makes me money.
I use a file most of the time, at least every other tankful. But if I hit a rock and the cutters are badly damaged, then I take it to have it ground. (If I were to file it in that case, it would be a lot of filing, although I have done it.)
ShoerFast
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Woodfarmer
I like the those bar mounted filing tools, the type that have the gauges that can be set to what the chain needs. they sell for around $20 - $25 bucks, if I dont use it or something like the Carlton's file o plate , my saws start to cut ruff or off to one side. What also works best for me is to set the depth gauges just slightly shallower then some like, I'm getting older, and like a saw that I needs to be eased into the wood just a touch, insted of one that needs to be held out of the cut,,,,,, but I dont have anything that could be considered "overpowered" eather.
As a new member here, and reading a lot of the post, one thing thats more agreed on then the color of saws that are ran, is that the condition of the chain makes or brakes the saw.
I like the those bar mounted filing tools, the type that have the gauges that can be set to what the chain needs. they sell for around $20 - $25 bucks, if I dont use it or something like the Carlton's file o plate , my saws start to cut ruff or off to one side. What also works best for me is to set the depth gauges just slightly shallower then some like, I'm getting older, and like a saw that I needs to be eased into the wood just a touch, insted of one that needs to be held out of the cut,,,,,, but I dont have anything that could be considered "overpowered" eather.
As a new member here, and reading a lot of the post, one thing thats more agreed on then the color of saws that are ran, is that the condition of the chain makes or brakes the saw.
SawTroll
Information Collector
There are lots of treads on chain charpening on this forum.woodfarmer said:
Use the search function, and a lot of reading matter will show up.....
Last edited:
Steve here...
I square grind my own chain with a Silvey SDM-4. I round grind chain I sharpen for friends, with a Foley 308. Most casual users wouldn't be able to tell the diffence
I square grind my own chain with a Silvey SDM-4. I round grind chain I sharpen for friends, with a Foley 308. Most casual users wouldn't be able to tell the diffence
pineing scot
ArboristSite Lurker
Swear by good old fashioned round file, cheap attachments available to give you the right angle and pitch. After a while you will get a feel for this with out the guide, guides normally have raker gauge on them too. so you know when to flat file them. All the best.
i have always used round file by hand, on occasion i have taken chains to a dealer and when i get them back they have really been ground a lot, its probably an inexperienced person using the grinder.
ShoerFast
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Woodfarmer
It might be, but if there is any chain damage, a good chain grinder should match all the cutters,,,, that means taking all the cutters down to the worst one, but by doing this, the chain will cut soothly again.
It might be, but if there is any chain damage, a good chain grinder should match all the cutters,,,, that means taking all the cutters down to the worst one, but by doing this, the chain will cut soothly again.
Fish
Tree Freak
So the $2,000 silvey grinder makes you how much per loop? Is that just in Cali?
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
Find the method right for you. I like filing, AND grinding chains, both are pretty accurate coming from me, but thats because I'm pretty good at both these days. and if your filing isnt great right off, dont sweat it, your skill will improve with practice. its just like riding a bike.
16gauge
ArboristSite Operative
Well I can ride a bike but still can't seem to get both sides of the chain filed to the same angles.
I was once told that I was maladroitly ambidextrous. Could that be my problem?
I was once told that I was maladroitly ambidextrous. Could that be my problem?
Tree Sling'r
Addicted to ArboristSite
Fish said:
A write off and killer chains for work are priceless
Diesel JD
ArboristSite Guru
I like filing my chains and I want to learn how to file square chisel too. A round file is very easy as long as you don't take any more material off than you must and grind each tooth the same amount of strokes. It would be nice to have a chain grinder on days like yesterday when I was cutting some oak in a kerf I was holding open with a metal wedge and the cahinsaw slightly kicked back and took a bite of the wedge. That chian didn't appreciate it and I spent 30 minutes or so bringing it back.
Diesel JD said:
To learn to sharpen square ground, buy a double bevel flat file, then instructions are at the following link...
Square-Ground Filing...
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_06.pdf
pineing scot
ArboristSite Lurker
Good info on site for sqaure filing Billy Bob, thanks for that!
Pineing scot saws.
husky 051
husky 262 xp
jonsered 1241 turbo
stihl 192t
Pineing scot saws.
husky 051
husky 262 xp
jonsered 1241 turbo
stihl 192t
