southernyank
New Member
sharpening my saw with a round file by hand doesn't last more than a half dozen cuts. can somebody tell me the proper way to sharpen by hand?
chain sharpening
- Thread starter southernyank
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treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
Quit cutting dirt.
tony marks
Addicted to ArboristSite
look on this site for madsens or mabe walker also [im not sure]. go to their links and u will find a wealth of the kind of info u need. climbers right tho, dirt any where ,on the wood or grd, is the #1 culprit i rcenyly spent a couple o days playin w various sharpen methods and trying to find ways that would make a saw cut better.it was time well spent. this ,30 yrs after i first started using a chain saw.occasionally. i
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yankee doodle,
Many manuals that come with chain saws have good descriptions and drawing of proper sharpening techniques and angles to maintain. All are very important. Stop sharpening when the edge reflects no light; a sign of dullness.....
Be religious about cutting only wood...keep it off the ground, watch where the tip of bar is headed, etc etc. If you suspect buried nails, etc, cut by feel and listen, be ready to back off instantly if you hit something.
The number of times a cutter can be sharpened depends of how dull it is, and its length. If you keep all cutters the same length and shape, they can be sharpened all the way til there is very little of them left. I've noticed some chain has longer cutters. I use Oregon, as i get it cheap, but some oregon cutters are kinda short.
REBel
Many manuals that come with chain saws have good descriptions and drawing of proper sharpening techniques and angles to maintain. All are very important. Stop sharpening when the edge reflects no light; a sign of dullness.....
Be religious about cutting only wood...keep it off the ground, watch where the tip of bar is headed, etc etc. If you suspect buried nails, etc, cut by feel and listen, be ready to back off instantly if you hit something.
The number of times a cutter can be sharpened depends of how dull it is, and its length. If you keep all cutters the same length and shape, they can be sharpened all the way til there is very little of them left. I've noticed some chain has longer cutters. I use Oregon, as i get it cheap, but some oregon cutters are kinda short.
REBel
southernyank......I would go to a saw shop and ask him for a brand new cutter, just one tooth. The bigger the better, preferably a .404 pitch. Use this as a visual aid until you get the hang of the proper angles and clearances. I always file from the inside of the chain toward the outside, and it is important to keep all cutters the same length. Some chain manufacturers have a line stamped on the top of the cutter to help you with the angles. Also something to remember........no matter how sharp you get them, they still don't cut rocks!
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Hi SY, sometimes even a new chain will give you no better results. Casual users, no-pros and even those that should know better dont understand that sharp chain is only one part of the equation when making fast, straight cuts. When the sprocket and bar are worn due to forcing the cut, lack of lube and heat , we end up with tobagan shaped kerfs. Bar, sprocket and chain must be equaly scrutinized if we wish to stay in the running, otherwise the chain may as well be mounted on backwards. Remember, if a saw was meant to be rode, it would come with a saddle. The best way to explain it is wondering why a truck wont steer straight down the road when the ball joints and tie rods are shot.
John
John
logcutter429
ArboristSite Operative
hey SY, alot of people think the more you sharpen the sharper it gets you can over sharpen, you watch when you file and if you see the chrome rolling back it won't last like your saying, 3or 4 licks is fine unless you been doing some serious plowing.
chainsawworld
ArboristSite Guru
sy,
what make chain is it and has it ever been sharpened on a grinder? i have seen many chains destroyed on grinders by people that don't have a clue. if you are in the dirt a lot you may want to try this saw i built for lambert. marty
what make chain is it and has it ever been sharpened on a grinder? i have seen many chains destroyed on grinders by people that don't have a clue. if you are in the dirt a lot you may want to try this saw i built for lambert. marty
Stumper
One Man Band
Hilarious!!!!!!!
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Hi Marty, that shovel saw works real well. The neighbours marvel at the sight of me using it as a new fangled rototiller.
John
John
firedoctor
ArboristSite Lurker
I find that when I put the chain on backwards the dirt doesn't dull it up as much.
-Craig
-Craig
SawS
ArboristSite Lurker
Sharpening your chains, yourself--
I don't see it talked about much, but I have been using Carlton sawchain for a long time. They have a little tool for their chains, (the tools vary, depending on the style chain you use), called a File-o-plate. It fits in your pocket, it's about the size of an old time, two sided razor blade. This tool is amazing, with a roud file, and a flat file, you can keep your chains cutting like new 'till you file the cutter tooth down to almost nothing. This tool keeps the rakers filed to the proper height in relation to the wear on the cutter tooth. This is the key to your chain throwing chips of wood, not sawdust. All this is done with hand held files, no clamps, or jigs to set up. Their chains wear like iron too, and I cut all hardwood. Hope this helps. I think their web site is at sawchain.com Good luck.
I don't see it talked about much, but I have been using Carlton sawchain for a long time. They have a little tool for their chains, (the tools vary, depending on the style chain you use), called a File-o-plate. It fits in your pocket, it's about the size of an old time, two sided razor blade. This tool is amazing, with a roud file, and a flat file, you can keep your chains cutting like new 'till you file the cutter tooth down to almost nothing. This tool keeps the rakers filed to the proper height in relation to the wear on the cutter tooth. This is the key to your chain throwing chips of wood, not sawdust. All this is done with hand held files, no clamps, or jigs to set up. Their chains wear like iron too, and I cut all hardwood. Hope this helps. I think their web site is at sawchain.com Good luck.
crowe
ArboristSite Operative
Hello,
Sounds to me like maybe your not putting enough pressure on the file. You might be rolling the beak back. what I am trying to say is if your rolling the beak back the edge is to thin. It will cut great for a couple of cuts then it begins to fade fast, then your back to where you started before you filed. What I used when I startedout was a Carlton file-0-plate. It is a combination sharpening guideand depth gauge tool. Anyway it comes in real handy for keeping your cutter's even and set at the proper angle. after you have filed for awhile you will find you need it less and less. it also comes in handy if you have hit a rock and need to square your chain back up. I still use it for that. Check your local saw shop and see if they have one cost about 5$. Anyway I have rambled on enough good luck and stay clear of the dirt.
Sounds to me like maybe your not putting enough pressure on the file. You might be rolling the beak back. what I am trying to say is if your rolling the beak back the edge is to thin. It will cut great for a couple of cuts then it begins to fade fast, then your back to where you started before you filed. What I used when I startedout was a Carlton file-0-plate. It is a combination sharpening guideand depth gauge tool. Anyway it comes in real handy for keeping your cutter's even and set at the proper angle. after you have filed for awhile you will find you need it less and less. it also comes in handy if you have hit a rock and need to square your chain back up. I still use it for that. Check your local saw shop and see if they have one cost about 5$. Anyway I have rambled on enough good luck and stay clear of the dirt.
