Yup. Better chip clearance, slightly narrower kerf, the precise angles you want, and the raker height that suits your needs, can combine to make a better cutting chain than fresh off the roll.
chain sharpening
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Yup. Better chip clearance, slightly narrower kerf, the precise angles you want, and the raker height that suits your needs, can combine to make a better cutting chain than fresh off the roll.
Unknown Cutter
ArboristSite Lurker
my question is whether or not it cuts that much better than one off the roll to warrant filing on a brand new chain vs waiting till it gets dull once before hand filing?
chainsaw kid
ArboristSite Operative
Thats why I said this....
Don't get me wrong....a new chain is always so nice and I would never mess with a new chain
beowulf343
Addicted to ArboristSite
Gotta learn to do it right by hand-hard to carry an electric sharpener out in the field. Every one of my chains is sharpened by hand while on the saw and usually on the tailgate of the truck or on a stump or log. I'll sharpen every second tank of gas and the chain never comes off until the teeth are ground right down. About the only time i'll change chains instead of sharpening is on the long bars if i've hit something serious.
Sharpening by hand is becoming a lost art.
palogger
ArboristSite Operative
i have run new chains without doing anything to them if i'm in a hurry, but most the time i will hit the rakers a couple times and touch it up before i use it and personally i see and feel a big difference
just my .02 cents worth
just my .02 cents worth
re.canyon
for years i filed, and thougt i was good cause it worked
and i hate to file w/o a vice, humping the saw, but i always found that after i got half way through the teeth there wher imperfections left vs right side
also going to deep into the gullet too much hook angle so at some point would take them in and they needed to be takin way back, and of course blued. That became uneceptical so i bought a grinder and now i can true the angels as soon as i notice any lack of preformance. I like to use the file vice combo cause i think it can be better than a grinder and it takes off less meat.
Of course out in the field with no vice and you hit somthing, dirty logs and such you gotta make it work. I can get about four to eight hand fileings befor it needs the grinder depending on conditions, 25-50 strokes per tooth.
And like i said I'm just starting to get good.
And if the bar is off you'll never cut straight. My .058 bar mes. .063 now and no cain works on it.
gonna try a .063 chain on it a see how it dose.
Doing all .050 now lots of new chain and bars, im not into pushing my saws at all any more.
for years i filed, and thougt i was good cause it worked
and i hate to file w/o a vice, humping the saw, but i always found that after i got half way through the teeth there wher imperfections left vs right side
also going to deep into the gullet too much hook angle so at some point would take them in and they needed to be takin way back, and of course blued. That became uneceptical so i bought a grinder and now i can true the angels as soon as i notice any lack of preformance. I like to use the file vice combo cause i think it can be better than a grinder and it takes off less meat.
Of course out in the field with no vice and you hit somthing, dirty logs and such you gotta make it work. I can get about four to eight hand fileings befor it needs the grinder depending on conditions, 25-50 strokes per tooth.
And like i said I'm just starting to get good.
And if the bar is off you'll never cut straight. My .058 bar mes. .063 now and no cain works on it.
gonna try a .063 chain on it a see how it dose.
Doing all .050 now lots of new chain and bars, im not into pushing my saws at all any more.
reachtreeservi
Addicted to ArboristSite
mryb
Resident Creep
I just bought a MAXX. I love it. Dad bought one a year or two ago also & loves it. I like how quiet they are...Rick
undercut
ArboristSite Operative
files are cheap
I personally think that files are cheap so bust out a new one when your files are not biting that well. also cut some wood right before you file. kill the saw in the wood while your cutting and you will get alot of the oil off the chain. I noticed if i rev out a saw in the air a few times before i sharpen it has more oil on the chain. Just a tip. It get on your file and makes it harder. Once you get good at hand filing there is nothing better. It takes a long long time to master. took me a year of sharpening 115dl chains everyday. You will know when you get it DOWN. I use a dremil tool just for my rakers. Quick taps with a small stone. I use round files for my cutters, no handle or anything. I just pop one out of the box. sharpen and cut faster than anyone i work with. Once i get a sharpness issue i take a real quick brake and touch it up. It is quick because i didn't continue to hammer my saw to cut. Just let the trigger go in the wood. Switch it off. Just fix it right away. No more revving. Just right when i notice it. Turn the saw of in the cut. Hope this helps people. I would never want a machine sharpened chain (other than brand new) over a chain i hand filed myself. period the end.
I personally think that files are cheap so bust out a new one when your files are not biting that well. also cut some wood right before you file. kill the saw in the wood while your cutting and you will get alot of the oil off the chain. I noticed if i rev out a saw in the air a few times before i sharpen it has more oil on the chain. Just a tip. It get on your file and makes it harder. Once you get good at hand filing there is nothing better. It takes a long long time to master. took me a year of sharpening 115dl chains everyday. You will know when you get it DOWN. I use a dremil tool just for my rakers. Quick taps with a small stone. I use round files for my cutters, no handle or anything. I just pop one out of the box. sharpen and cut faster than anyone i work with. Once i get a sharpness issue i take a real quick brake and touch it up. It is quick because i didn't continue to hammer my saw to cut. Just let the trigger go in the wood. Switch it off. Just fix it right away. No more revving. Just right when i notice it. Turn the saw of in the cut. Hope this helps people. I would never want a machine sharpened chain (other than brand new) over a chain i hand filed myself. period the end.
I used to believe a new chain out of the box was the ultimate. After 3 or 4 hand sharpening it needed to be machine ground as the angles would be screwed up. The machine ground was good but never as good as a new chain. Then found this site and after much reading and practicing no more dealer machine grinding was necessary. I even touch up a new chain out of the box with a round file and check/ file the rakers. As far as file handles - try a golf ball .
reachtreeservi
Addicted to ArboristSite
Check out these grinders. It doesn't get much more industrial than these.
http://www.silveychaingrinder.com/
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Rftreeman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Slvrmple72
Addicted to ArboristSite
I file by hand. I use Pferd round files on the cutters for the first two sharpenings and then use the combination cutter/raker file for the third sharpening. This setup works great and keeping the rakers at the right height keeps the chips big without making the saw too jerky in the cut. On the looong chains and badly damaged ones I will sharpen with the Oregon Sure Sharp replacement stones but I put them in the Variable Speed Dremel w/ the flex shaft. I have a bar mounted to the front of my workbench that I drop the dull chains in and get to work. Once sharpened I dunk it in a jar of fresh motor oil and wrap it in a piece of towel that goes in the case for that saw. Why is it I always have more dull chains then sharp ones on hand?
when filing by hand... here's a few things that will help.
1. clamp chainsaw bar in heavy vise, then adjust to correct tension.
2. use only sharp correct size files. Stihl files preferred
4. must see what you are doing. if that takes eye glasses and extra lights, then fine.
5. personal preference, but I prefer a file guide. holds consistant angle better.
6. measure file size to make sure it's the correct file.
7. file one side, then re clamp bar before sharpening other side. taking no more than two full strokes on each teeth. if it's needs more, go back to that teeth.
it's a good idea to use stihl's clamp on chain sharpener. it will show you exact angles to imitate.
1. clamp chainsaw bar in heavy vise, then adjust to correct tension.
2. use only sharp correct size files. Stihl files preferred
4. must see what you are doing. if that takes eye glasses and extra lights, then fine.
5. personal preference, but I prefer a file guide. holds consistant angle better.
6. measure file size to make sure it's the correct file.
7. file one side, then re clamp bar before sharpening other side. taking no more than two full strokes on each teeth. if it's needs more, go back to that teeth.
it's a good idea to use stihl's clamp on chain sharpener. it will show you exact angles to imitate.
Scots Climber
ArboristSite Operative
I do mine on the saw with the saw on the bench using Stihl files (no guide), and as Slvrmple72 said I do the rakers every third sharpen. I've never used a grinder, but since I've put the 36" bar on my MS660W, I think I might get one
My groundworker has an annoying knack of hitting the ground with the tip of the bar and then making a poor job of evening up the teeth :censored: At least that's only a 18" bar.
My groundworker has an annoying knack of hitting the ground with the tip of the bar and then making a poor job of evening up the teeth :censored: At least that's only a 18" bar.
B-Edwards
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use the Silvey 510 and it is an awesome grinder, my climber dulls every saw he touches every-time he touches one. We have had the talk ,it does no good, in is words (he's dammed good with a saw) and doesn't understand why i am so picky. When I said every-time he touches it I meant it. Chain grinders imo don't waste chain ,dulling them wastes chain ,you have to get it Sharp or it ain't gonna cut. I've had blisters from trying to sharpen a 3 foot on my 066. The answer to your question is relative to your situation, but if you have a genius like I do who dulls it every-time he touches it maybe a grinder is in the future for you.
Canyonbc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hello,
I was looking at the Silvey, sight last night. The grinder works well? How much did you pay for it?? (if you dont mind me asking). I emailed them...but do tey sell it through other companies...or do you order straight through Silvey.
Thanks
Canyon
B-Edwards
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mine was $500 range but its been awhile. I got it at Sherrills when you could walk in ,before they went to Vermeer and mail only. It is a great machine, takes a lil getting used to like everything but well worth it. As i mentioned if you have guys who don't get the meaning of trying to keep a saw sharp this machine is for you. There's alot to keeping a saw running like it supposed to. If i owned a saw sharp store Id never have to buy another chain. Most people throw away very good chains thinking they are ruined. When I throw chains away they are losing teeth.
Canyonbc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for the information.
I was just on Sherill web site, and didn't see it on there...only saw the Oregon 511-A, which there are lots of posts about here....so i wont ask any questions about that grinder...
i emailed Silvey, so waiting for there response.
Thanks
canyon
