Duhhhhh..... Think what you want to. If the sprocket isn't spinning freely it can cause this condition. I didn't say it wasn't getting enough lube as the oil tank runs dry at the same time the gas does. Possibly a bad tip from the factory. I just prefer a greasable tip.
Chain Stretch
- Thread starter jack-the-ripper
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Kneejerk Bombas
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I tend to disagree about the sprocket causing this condition (stretched chain). The sprocket is made of some thin metal and the bearings are little cylinder shaped needle bearings about half the size of a BB.
The tip spins at around 10,000 rpms. If a condition exists in the tip that is creating friction, it very quickly is known to the operator. With 5 or more HP spinning the tip at 10,000, that little bit of metal in the tip doesn't stand a chance.
I'm not trying to be a wiseguy (it comes naturally), just trying to get to the real bottom of your problem.
The tip spins at around 10,000 rpms. If a condition exists in the tip that is creating friction, it very quickly is known to the operator. With 5 or more HP spinning the tip at 10,000, that little bit of metal in the tip doesn't stand a chance.
I'm not trying to be a wiseguy (it comes naturally), just trying to get to the real bottom of your problem.
dustytools
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Ive noticed at the dealer that every time I see a saw waiting for the owner to pick it up that the chain is always on the bar loose. Just as you say to back the tension off when its not gonna be in use for a couple of days. This is something that I have never done as I am still kinda new to saws and milling. What can happen to the saw and chain by not releasing the tension? Thanks.buck futter said:
Kneejerk Bombas
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I can't think of a reason to release the tension on a properly adjusted chain, but if you made the mistake of tightening a chain while it was hot, and then it cooled down, it could shrink and put huge loads on the crankshaft and main bearings.
charlesfarm
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I'm a part-time small engine mechanic and am an Oregon dealer. Oregon has a really nice little book titled "Maintenance and Safety Manual". They are free to all Oregon dealers, and every new customer of mine that brings me a saw to work on or buys parts for their chainsaw gets one of these from me.
In the book, they describe how to properly break in a chain. I have used this protocol with every new chain I buy for my personal use and it has worked wonders to give the chains a proper break in and prevents the chain from stretching too much.
Here it is ...
1. Soak new chain in clean oil for 24 hours (I just use engine oil)
2. Install chain on saw
3. Run saw at half throttle for a few minutes to heat up chain and bar.
4. Allow bar/chain to cool and re-tension the chain
5. Keep the first several cuts small and be sure to keep plenty of oil on the chain during these cuts. And don't apply pressure to the saw during these first few cuts -- let the chain pull itself through the wood.
I believe that the secret is in the 24 hour oil bath oil to allow all the tie straps and links to become thoroughly penetrated with oil, keeping wear to a minimum before the chain starts to get oil from the saw oiler.
Sprockets also have a huge impact on the longevity of the chain. Most people don't replace them as often as they should. I replace mine after every two chains. It's great to have the replaceable rim type -- the rims are quite cheap in comparison to a chain that only lasts half as long as it should.
Hope this helps make your chains last longer!
God bless,
Chris Charles
In the book, they describe how to properly break in a chain. I have used this protocol with every new chain I buy for my personal use and it has worked wonders to give the chains a proper break in and prevents the chain from stretching too much.
Here it is ...
1. Soak new chain in clean oil for 24 hours (I just use engine oil)
2. Install chain on saw
3. Run saw at half throttle for a few minutes to heat up chain and bar.
4. Allow bar/chain to cool and re-tension the chain
5. Keep the first several cuts small and be sure to keep plenty of oil on the chain during these cuts. And don't apply pressure to the saw during these first few cuts -- let the chain pull itself through the wood.
I believe that the secret is in the 24 hour oil bath oil to allow all the tie straps and links to become thoroughly penetrated with oil, keeping wear to a minimum before the chain starts to get oil from the saw oiler.
Sprockets also have a huge impact on the longevity of the chain. Most people don't replace them as often as they should. I replace mine after every two chains. It's great to have the replaceable rim type -- the rims are quite cheap in comparison to a chain that only lasts half as long as it should.
Hope this helps make your chains last longer!
God bless,
Chris Charles
