Chains for 4400-4

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Menchhofer

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Tried searching for a post where someone mentioned they found some chains to fit the 4400-4. Anyone remember this one by any chance?
 
That might have been me. I did post about tire chains I put on my 4400-4. They work very well. A huge increase in traction, but if you are on concrete they do leave very minor tracks which I never had a problem with the customer. However, I would recommend using aggressive tread tires instead. The new Carlton 7015 uses skid steer tires and they have good traction. These tires and rims will work on the 4400-4 if you put automotive wheel spacers at least 1 inch thick on the machine before mounting the new tires and rims. Here is where I found my tire chains if thats what you decide.

1.800.526.3924 (Midwest/East USA)
1.800.445.2895 (Western USA)
[email protected]

http://www.pewagchain.com/
 
Menchhofer said:
Tried searching for a post where someone mentioned they found some chains to fit the 4400-4. Anyone remember this one by any chance?

I fabricated tracks for my 4400-4 very inexpensively about a year ago. I have been using them ever since with great results. It lifts the differential 1 inch higher. I am able to climb on the pile of chips as I'm grinding. I can use the machine in wet areas now, No more spinning tires and ripped up grass. I have only needed to adjust them twice since (see overview.jpg).

For each of the outer drive tires I did the following:
My tires are 20inches in Diameter and 6 inches wide.
Bought 2 lengths of 3/16 chain, each (20 X 3.14 = 62.8) 70 inches long (see chainsize.jpg).
cut 6 pieces of 2 X 1 channel steel (see cleatwidth.jpg) 8 inches in length and drilled a 5/16 hole 3/4 of an inch from each end (see cleatlength.jpg).
Attached each chain to one side of the flat surface of each cleat using a one and one half inch bolt, 2 washers, and teflon nut. I spaced each cleat at 11 links apart (see frontview.jpg).
I then passed a long 5/16 in bolt through one of the links in the remaining chain, through the first link on the other end of the chain and through the last cleat. I then adjusted out the slack in the 2 chains on either side of the tire by tightening the nut on the bolt (see sideview-2.jpg).

Hope this of use, Fred.
 
hows that all the info you need!

got rung up by the carlton dealer here about a 4400 i remembered your thoughts dan.
 
My vermeer can't ''pull the skin of a rice pudding'' it's definatly lacking power to the front wheels, the motors look big ,i can't understand why manufactures don't realise and sort this problem !! nothing wrong with my stumpers cutting ability ,it just won't climb !!
 
Rolla, you talking about the vermeer 352.....i have a collection of rice pudding skins all freshly pulled.....i have no problem with traction......the diff lock always sorts out any slip probs.....if i get stuck at all, on slopes whatever..get better grip by moving the machine round a bit to the side with the cutting disc...(not engaged obviously).....only thing i would say about it is that is blooming slow to get to the stump in the first place......could do with a seat and somewhere to rest your newspaper....
 
TreeCo said:
... I'm not sure it would make it up the metal ramps onto my trailer though.

Dan, my trailer is an 18 ft equipment trailer with metal ramps. The ramps are angle iron welded edge up about 6-8 inches apart. I have no problem walking it up onto the wood deck, even when the deck is wet. Snow on the wood deck is a problem, but I suppose you don't see that too often.

TreeCo said:
...
The rear end under the 4400 acts like plow and inhibits forward motion into chip piles. I'm constantly backing out of the cut and using the grinding wheel to clear chips to obtain forward motion. Also the rear end in the 4400 is not positive traction so when on a slippery surface it becomes one wheel drive.
...

You will be amazed at the difference in mobility. You don't need to use channel as the tracks. You could use hard rubber or some other suitable material.

Fred
 
stumpy66 said:
Rolla, you talking about the vermeer 352.....i have a collection of rice pudding skins all freshly pulled.....i have no problem with traction......the diff lock always sorts out any slip probs.....if i get stuck at all, on slopes whatever..get better grip by moving the machine round a bit to the side with the cutting disc...(not engaged obviously).....only thing i would say about it is that is blooming slow to get to the stump in the first place......could do with a seat and somewhere to rest your newspaper....

1, I have used all sorts of construction and horticultural equipment during the best part of 20 years in this game, so beleive me 99% of wheeled stump grinder have very poor front wheel drive power compared to other kit.

2, Yes the 352 is slow ,but nowhere as slow as the 252 infact the 352 is like a race horse compared to the [donkey] 252,the fastest grinder I had was a rayco rg 20sp..

3,Hows work you got plenty on down there??
 
That might have been me. I did post about tire chains I put on my 4400-4. They work very well. A huge increase in traction, but if you are on concrete they do leave very minor tracks which I never had a problem with the customer. However, I would recommend using aggressive tread tires instead. The new Carlton 7015 uses skid steer tires and they have good traction. These tires and rims will work on the 4400-4 if you put automotive wheel spacers at least 1 inch thick on the machine before mounting the new tires and rims. Here is where I found my tire chains if thats what you decide.

1.800.526.3924 (Midwest/East USA)
1.800.445.2895 (Western USA)
[email protected]

http://www.pewagchain.com/
I am new to the site, and I am interested to see a picture of the wheel spacer, and the look once completed? I have an 02 4404-4, and I love it but a little more traction would be nice.
 
I fabricated tracks for my 4400-4 very inexpensively about a year ago. I have been using them ever since with great results. It lifts the differential 1 inch higher. I am able to climb on the pile of chips as I'm grinding. I can use the machine in wet areas now, No more spinning tires and ripped up grass. I have only needed to adjust them twice since (see overview.jpg).

For each of the outer drive tires I did the following:
My tires are 20inches in Diameter and 6 inches wide.
Bought 2 lengths of 3/16 chain, each (20 X 3.14 = 62.8) 70 inches long (see chainsize.jpg).
cut 6 pieces of 2 X 1 channel steel (see cleatwidth.jpg) 8 inches in length and drilled a 5/16 hole 3/4 of an inch from each end (see cleatlength.jpg).
Attached each chain to one side of the flat surface of each cleat using a one and one half inch bolt, 2 washers, and teflon nut. I spaced each cleat at 11 links apart (see frontview.jpg).
I then passed a long 5/16 in bolt through one of the links in the remaining chain, through the first link on the other end of the chain and through the last cleat. I then adjusted out the slack in the 2 chains on either side of the tire by tightening the nut on the bolt (see sideview-2.jpg).

Hope this of use, Fred.
I'd love to see a picture of these
 

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