chainsaw maintenance vise

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James Sawyer

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I should have asked before I cut metal, but I want to build a bench or stand mount maintenance vise to repair chainsaws. I thought I'd ask if anyone has built one and if they had some suggestion before I built mine. If you could share some Photo that would be great. I have more material so I can make changes if need be... but I don't have a lot of it.

My thoughts are to machine grooves in the bar stock where I could use a bolt as a lock and keep the bar stock from sliding out of the vise. I was thinking I could mount the bar mount to the saw and then slide it in the vise for easy saw placement. The grooves would keep the bolts from marring the outside surface of the bar stock so it would always be able to spin the shafts inside the pipe without marring.

The 6" bar stock (shown) would weld to the flat bar (bar mount) and spin in the length of 5" pipe. The short 3" length bar stock would weld to the 5" pipe, this assemble would spin in the 2 1/2" length of pipe for vertical rotation. The 4" bar stock would weld to the 2 1/2" pipe and spin in the 3 1/4" length pipe for 360 rotations above the bench. I was thinking about using 1" washers weld to the bar stock as stops or not. The 3 1/2 length of pipe I want to weld concentric with in a section of 2" pipe (I need to make some plates with bores to keep the 1" pipe concentric). In the end I want to weld a bench mount plate on the bottom of 2" pipe. My thoughts are to make the vise high enough so the saw can swing it over a bench upside down and clear the handlebars.

The materials shown here is some metric bar stock (Metric roller shaft, it's like boat shaft it Hard), the pipe shown is 1" ID and some flat bar. I was having a hard time finding pipe or bar stock that had enough clearance that would work together and not be too slobby. Anyway, this what I came up with from some scrap that was laying around.

I've been wanting to build a Maintenace vise for a long time but just hadn't had the time. The commercial ones seem too be hard to find. I am hoping for some input before spending more time on this... there probably something I am missing. Sure, would appreciate your advice.
 

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Not in the same league as Mark's but I used it today. I made this to support the saw or just the bar while I worked on it:
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It rests in my bench vise and clamps against the bar:
1718147277828.jpegGreat for file sharpening and lots of other repairs and servicing. Holds the saw rock solid. I need to use it more often than I do. A stitch in time saves nine.
 
Scott Kunz (Tree Monkey on here) makes a sells a a great stand as does Stihl. Of course the Stihl one is near twice the price, in Australia, of Scott's.
Check them out for ideas
 
I'm confused to what a chainsaw vise has to offer? I like putting my saw in a vice for sharpening the chain but it has never crossed my mind to put the saw in a vice to work on it, seems like it would slow things down alot.
 
The beauty of the vice is that it can hold the saw body in any orientation freeing up ones hands to just work on the saw instead of one hand holding the saw body at weird angles to access screws or parts. When assembling the rear handle fuel tank unit into a Stihl 044 I like to attach the impulse line to the engine and connect the manifold to the cylinder. Made much easier if the saw can be kept steady and use my hands to maneuver the tank into place and then connect the parts.
 
The beauty of the vice is that it can hold the saw body in any orientation freeing up ones hands to just work on the saw instead of one hand holding the saw body at weird angles to access screws or parts. When assembling the rear handle fuel tank unit into a Stihl 044 I like to attach the impulse line to the engine and connect the manifold to the cylinder. Made much easier if the saw can be kept steady and use my hands to maneuver the tank into place and then connect the parts.
My Primary purpose is for tear down and repairs as explained by Pioneerguy600. As well as cleaning general servicing. I want to mount mine to portable stand so I can deep clean outside the shop avoid the floor mess. My stands are made out of scalloped plow disc with pipe as the lower section welded to the disk. The adjustable section is made out square tubing that's has index hole. Fits perfect inside lower tubing so it extremely stable and solid. Plus, it's totally adjusted able height wise. The plow disk is low and slight tapered; therefore, not a trip hazard and very stable. The scalloped disc is somewhat forgiving on uneven surfaces. I guess I should take a photo what there like, I've made several. I have other stands I've made out semi brake drums or disc brake rotors... but found these plow discs are way better, lighter to move. Most of this material you can get at scrape metal recycling for scrape prices. The square tubing is rim from stop signposts, I bought mine from Cherry City in Salem.

Anyway, I just cut the top plate for my stand this morning. I just need change out my wire in my mig and weld my parts together. Probably won't be able to weld this together until next week. My wife got me working on her raised beds and our garden plot, we got doctors appointment all day Thursday in Eugene... hoping to take my dad to PNW GTG on Saturday and we have a Father's Day/ Birthday event in Portland at one of my daughter homes.

 
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I like that one a lot. I usually just grab the dogs in the vise with the chain cover off.

+My buddy, Darcy made the one in the pic I posted after I made one using a ball joint from a one ton truck for the swivel part. Wish I still had the pics of mine but several members wanted me to make them one like it while others asked me if I minded that they copied it, told them to go ahead,build all they wanted.
 
Panavise 400
A length of 1" round stock
A worn out chainsaw bar
Mount panavise to a bench
Cut off the mounting end of the bar and weld it to the round stock
Insert round stock into panavise.
Easy peasy
There are lots of variations on this basic idea, just search the forums.
 

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I had to go looking for pics of the one I made back around 09, later on I made an additional piece that allows for full rotation of the powerhead. Again it is hard to find the pics as it was many years ago.

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did you use a trail ball or ball bearing?
 
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