Homer6679
ArboristSite Operative
Take it apart, take pics of everything so that you can put it back together and you'll see what I am talking about.
Chainsaw porting??
- Thread starter Stihlproincky
- Start date
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banjobandit
ArboristSite Lurker
So mine is mag cased right?
banjobandit
ArboristSite Lurker
Sorry I'm slow at this, my first forum. Ok so mag cased. Do you know of a good porter? I was thinking dyno joe if you know who that is.
Stihlproincky
ArboristSite Operative
Clamshell case.
Mag case.
Clamshell case, the top (cylinder) and bottom come completely out of the crankcase housing, (also note that most saws with this design are homeowner/farm and ranch saws).
Mag case, top (cylinder) comes off but the bottom is part of your crankcase housing. From the looks of it your's is a mag case. Hope this helps.
banjobandit
ArboristSite Lurker
Definitely did, thank you sir.
Stihlproincky
ArboristSite Operative
Barbourville, we used to lease to a hunter from down there.
Good luck with your saw.
Good luck with your saw.
banjobandit
ArboristSite Lurker
Oh yeah? Eastern ky here. Love my town.
No porting for me or muffler moods. I never ran a ported saw. Been around small engines a long time. The stuff they use on big engines will not work on small engines. The air flow is more with speed than volume on a small engine . A lot time removing the air filter and the engine will not run. I removed baffles on small motorcycles. Had way less power. My take on this stuff gutting a muffler and making it ear bleeding louder. I always felt the power went down. We have very smart people. I will say I'm not one them. I need more power I grab a bigger saw. I grab a top handle saw to cut off limb. Cutting a 3 foot diameter oak no way a top handle saw is going to do the job in a timely manner. You could invest a huge some money get some experts and may be cut it. The right tool for the job
Porting a saw is way advanced. A very junk engine with a sharp chain will out preform a ported saw with a dull chain. Before any muffler moods port and polish . Really learn to get a sharp chain and understand it. Get a tool measure the raker the life of chain you need to know it. I know people say only hand file. I could get a sharpe chain doing this. My hands would hurt fast. The file would give away fast. You want me to file away this much steel by hand. I went Dremel for decades now. I use diamond stones with honing oil.
For that saw you posted Its a collectors item thats rare, send it to a pro porter like kevin in here or gary buxton. First decide husqvarna or stihl and spend some time researching what versions are pro vs clamshell so you can get the pro version. Stay away from clamshells unless you have the capacity to line bore the bearing pockets on the cylinder. Find a heap of crap saw for cheap and plan to spend a few hundred bucks on parts to build it from the crankshaft up so you know its a solid saw. Get a couple cheap used or chinese cylinders for it so you can learn how to deck the cylinder to set squish and adjust your ports to the timing numbers you want then run it to see what you get. Once comfortable get a oem piston/cylinder to work with.
huskydave
Addicted to ArboristSite
How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. Learn how to tear apart and rebuild saws first and then start asking questions, when you can rebuild a saw in your sleep then your ready to start porting. Everything works together if you open up the exhaust side on an engine you need to open up the intake and increase the air and the fuel, you don't want to polish the intake side, leaving it slightly rough will increase turbulence and mix the air and fuel better. You can often just ditch the base gasket and use permitex black sealant to raise compression. If you do this check your squish band before running it.
I would say leave it alone until you have worked out what you're doing... even then finding another cylinder to grind on for it would be a good idea. It's worth enough you don't want to ruin it, but at the same time I would question whether it would be a worthwhile saw to send off for a pro porting job.
Maybe see if you can pick up some of the chinese Zenoah clones to practice on... around 50cc they're pretty much all the same & the local small engine repair shops usually have a stack of em out the back that aren't worth their time to fix for various reasons
Maybe see if you can pick up some of the chinese Zenoah clones to practice on... around 50cc they're pretty much all the same & the local small engine repair shops usually have a stack of em out the back that aren't worth their time to fix for various reasons
If you want to practice porting get a cheap clone saw, if you mess up the cylinders are 20-30 bucks.
The big thing to remember is they're tiny motors so you grind tiny amounts out of the cylinders. Some of the guys on youtube hog stuff right out and the saw doesnt run as good as it should.
The last saw I ported was my neighbors husky 359. I took the base gasket out, modded the muffler, advanced the ignition timing a touch and did a little tiny bit of grinding. I raised the exhaust and uppers .020-.030tho and left the intake stock height, then widened the intake/exhaust. I was really temped to just widen the intake/exhaust and call it good, the timing was pretty good stock but he wanted more rpm than stock for cutting smallish wood. It went from 107ex, 124t 77in to 103ex 120t 77in and it runs great.
The big thing to remember is they're tiny motors so you grind tiny amounts out of the cylinders. Some of the guys on youtube hog stuff right out and the saw doesnt run as good as it should.
The last saw I ported was my neighbors husky 359. I took the base gasket out, modded the muffler, advanced the ignition timing a touch and did a little tiny bit of grinding. I raised the exhaust and uppers .020-.030tho and left the intake stock height, then widened the intake/exhaust. I was really temped to just widen the intake/exhaust and call it good, the timing was pretty good stock but he wanted more rpm than stock for cutting smallish wood. It went from 107ex, 124t 77in to 103ex 120t 77in and it runs great.
thompsoncustom
ArboristSite Operative
Poulan wild thing is a good one to start on because there cheap I picked one up last year that ran for 5 bucks.
Stihlproincky
ArboristSite Operative
Not to sure who your talking to but I started this thread, I have rebuilt 3 saws to date and torn down and reassembled numerous. So porting is my next adventure/step into performance chainsaws, just trying to learn from some of you guys that have done it.
Thanks for the replies.
redpowerd
ArboristSite Operative
Id start by timing a few cuts on a cant, a cant you can use after every mod, with a new chain and dressed bar. Heres your base. Remove all variables...Then tear the saw down, polish the exhaust, reassemble then time your cuts again with another new chain. Small steps and each one timed. Look at it the same way as building a load for a rifle. Remove all variables. Theres quite a bit you can do before you start timing... open exhaust, clean lowers, polish exhaust port, port matching, widen ports ect. By the time youve tore down and reassembled and tested each mod, the time that comes for the wheel youll know the saw much better and have the tear down/assembly process cut to miniutes. I only started playing with a saw that was extremely easy to take apart and put back together. If i run into something in reassembly that i feel is taking longer than it should, i have little patience to fight with the same thing repeatedly and will loose interest quickly. Makes the end result seem unworthy. I would never try to rework a saw i cant get back together easily within a few miniutes, its hard to judge your work when you cant easily test every solitary procedure. That being said, once you get to the point of using the wheel, youll have a better idea on numbers and will be able to complete multiple procedures with known results in a single teardown. Im no pro, just sharing experience on what ive learned on my saws. And be financially prepared to scrap a few jugs. Thanks for reading i hope it helps
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