Homer6679
ArboristSite Operative
Take it apart, take pics of everything so that you can put it back together and you'll see what I am talking about.
Sorry I'm slow at this, my first forum. Ok so mag cased. Do you know of a good porter? I was thinking dyno joe if you know who that is.So mine is mag cased right?
Clamshell case.Sorry I'm slow at this, my first forum. Ok so mag cased. Do you know of a good porter? I was thinking dyno joe if you know who that is.
Definitely did, thank you sir.Clamshell case.View attachment 1173174
Mag case.View attachment 1173175
Clamshell case, the top (cylinder) and bottom come completely out of the crankcase housing, (also note that most saws with this design are homeowner/farm and ranch saws).
Mag case, top (cylinder) comes off but the bottom is part of your crankcase housing. From the looks of it your's is a mag case. Hope this helps.
Oh yeah? Eastern ky here. Love my town.Barbourville, we used to lease to a hunter from down there.
Good luck with your saw.
Not to sure who your talking to but I started this thread, I have rebuilt 3 saws to date and torn down and reassembled numerous. So porting is my next adventure/step into performance chainsaws, just trying to learn from some of you guys that have done it.How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. Learn how to tear apart and rebuild saws first and then start asking questions, when you can rebuild a saw in your sleep then your ready to start porting. Everything works together if you open up the exhaust side on an engine you need to open up the intake and increase the air and the fuel, you don't want to polish the intake side, leaving it slightly rough will increase turbulence and mix the air and fuel better. You can often just ditch the base gasket and use permitex black sealant to raise compression. If you do this check your squish band before running it.
Id start by timing a few cuts on a cant, a cant you can use after every mod, with a new chain and dressed bar. Heres your base. Remove all variables...Then tear the saw down, polish the exhaust, reassemble then time your cuts again with another new chain. Small steps and each one timed. Look at it the same way as building a load for a rifle. Remove all variables. Theres quite a bit you can do before you start timing... open exhaust, clean lowers, polish exhaust port, port matching, widen ports ect. By the time youve tore down and reassembled and tested each mod, the time that comes for the wheel youll know the saw much better and have the tear down/assembly process cut to miniutes. I only started playing with a saw that was extremely easy to take apart and put back together. If i run into something in reassembly that i feel is taking longer than it should, i have little patience to fight with the same thing repeatedly and will loose interest quickly. Makes the end result seem unworthy. I would never try to rework a saw i cant get back together easily within a few miniutes, its hard to judge your work when you cant easily test every solitary procedure. That being said, once you get to the point of using the wheel, youll have a better idea on numbers and will be able to complete multiple procedures with known results in a single teardown. Im no pro, just sharing experience on what ive learned on my saws. And be financially prepared to scrap a few jugs. Thanks for reading i hope it helpsNot to sure who your talking to but I started this thread, I have rebuilt 3 saws to date and torn down and reassembled numerous. So porting is my next adventure/step into performance chainsaws, just trying to learn from some of you guys that have done it.
Thanks for the replies.
Enter your email address to join: