chainsaw sharpener

[Lester Gillett]

We have a few large white oak logs 34" that we need to trim down to fit the mill. I will be using a lumber
maker to guide the saw to trim them. What I need is what type of chain do I need and what is the best
electric sharpener to sharpen them with. I have read that a chisel chain works best but what angle is
the best and do any sharpener work best. I have looked on YouTube and I see there are two angles you
set to sharpen them. I am new at this so would like some input so I don't ruin the chains.

Lester

 

[czbigoaks]

If your rip cutting them, you need a rip chain. It's not just the angle on the chain that makes it a rip chain. The cutters and rakers are closer together. I personally bought the cheapest chain sharpener I could find and it does quite well. Just make sure your able to adjust angle to ten degrees.

 

[Runknpap]

If your just trimming off the sides personally I think any sharp chain will do u justice. And this right here is the best 100 bucks you'll spend. Granger precision sharpener. It's practically dumbie prof.


http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/Products.asp?mi=14661&itemnum=94526&redir=Y

 

[Philbert]

Lots of posts on ripping and ripping chain. Most people who do a lot of ripping sharpen at different angles than crosscutting, and note that it is much harder on the saw, so take a look at that as well. Many threads on this, with lots of different opinions, including:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ripping-chain.282637/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ripping-milling-chain.256723/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-do-you-sharpen-your-ripping-chain.61921/

Bailey's ripping chains:
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...in-3-8-x-050/WoodlandPro-30RP-Chainsaw-Chain/

As far as the grinder for sharpening, you usually get what you pay for. Better electric grinders are $300+. Some guys are happy with the $120 'knock-off versions'. Some like the cheap ones, but these often do not adjust for the less common ripping angles, so decide on those first!

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/northern-hyd-grinder-making-it-work-pics.40844/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-310-mini-grinder.283691/

Note that guys who mount their saws in a chainsaw mill will prefer methods to sharpen the chain on the bar, so that they don't have to unmount and readjust everything. This 'touch up' grinders may be different than the bench grinder that you use to convert a cross cut chain into a ripping chain.

Philbert

 

[Runknpap]

I'm telling you man. YouTube the granberg precision sharpener. Just buy extra stones with it that's all

 

[Philbert]

I'm telling you man. YouTube the granberg precision sharpener. Just buy extra stones with it that's all

A lot of guys who rip with chainsaw mills like that model of portable sharpener to touch up chains without having to take them off of the bar, and out of the mill.

If he is looking to convert chain ground at 30°/60°/0° for crosscutting to 10°/55°/10° for milling, the Granberg would take long time and waste a lot of stones.

JMHO

Philbert

 

[mdavlee]

If it's only a few cuts just use whatever chain you have. No need to buy ripping chain just for a few cuts.

 

[Runknpap]

If it's only a few cuts just use whatever chain you have. No need to buy ripping chain just for a few cuts.

Exactlly

 

[Lester Gillett]

Thanks for all the good info on sharpeners. From what I see the sharpener head needs to be at 60 deg and the blade at 10 degs or will the stander 25 be best ?
We found a harbor freight sharpener and I not to sure of all that plastic being strong enough. We have a Homelite 330 saw with a 24" bar and will be only
trimming the side of the log. Going to look for a Oregon sharpener as they seem to be more metal in there stand.

Lester

 

[czbigoaks]

Thanks for all the good info on sharpeners. From what I see the sharpener head needs to be at 60 deg and the blade at 10 degs or will the stander 25 be best ?
We found a harbor freight sharpener and I not to sure of all that plastic being strong enough. We have a Homelite 330 saw with a 24" bar and will be only
trimming the side of the log. Going to look for a Oregon sharpener as they seem to be more metal in there stand.

Lester

What are you doing with this thing. Sharpening a chain is no huge task that requires a thousand pound grinder.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Lots of posts on ripping and ripping chain. Most people who do a lot of ripping sharpen at different angles than crosscutting, and note that it is much harder on the saw, so take a look at that as well. Many threads on this, with lots of different opinions, including:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ripping-chain.282637/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ripping-milling-chain.256723/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-do-you-sharpen-your-ripping-chain.61921/

Bailey's ripping chains:
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...in-3-8-x-050/WoodlandPro-30RP-Chainsaw-Chain/

As far as the grinder for sharpening, you usually get what you pay for. Better electric grinders are $300+. Some guys are happy with the $120 'knock-off versions'. Some like the cheap ones, but these often do not adjust for the less common ripping angles, so decide on those first!

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/northern-hyd-grinder-making-it-work-pics.40844/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-310-mini-grinder.283691/

Note that guys who mount their saws in a chainsaw mill will prefer methods to sharpen the chain on the bar, so that they don't have to unmount and readjust everything. This 'touch up' grinders may be different than the bench grinder that you use to convert a cross cut chain into a ripping chain.

Philbert

I have one of the lime green "knock offs" mounted right next to 2 Oregon ones, aside from color they the same exact machine aside from price. If anything I like the knock off better, it has an up travel stop.
All 3 have sharpened thousands of chains. One setup for big chain, one for small and the other for depth guages.

We do ripping chains at 10* vs 30* for a regular chain and it's worked well. I've had some chains come in where they cut the width of every other tooth as well.

 

[Philbert]

I've had some chains come in where they cut the width of every other tooth as well.

Granberg makes a special ripping chain that has scoring cutters as well as standard cutters (illustration below). A local saw shop near me still 'makes up' special chain for certain customers by grinding the top plate off of some cutters on conventional chain to achieve the same effect.

You would have to ask the milling guys if they think that there is any advantage to this.



Philbert

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Granberg makes a special ripping chain that has scoring cutters as well as standard cutters (illustration below). A local saw shop near me still 'makes up' special chain for certain customers by grinding the top plate off of some cutters on conventional chain to achieve the same effect.

You would have to ask the milling guys if they think that there is any advantage to this.

View attachment 448841

Philbert

Yeah I'm not sure what the advantage is. I found some chains we had for ice block cutting that was done up the same too aside from no rakers.