Cheap new saw won't start hot

[Mozzer]

I wanted a fallback option in case my stihl Ms260 has a problem during firewood gathering season, this Radley seemed worth a try rather than an old good brand.

Ran fine, bit less power than my stihl. Only problem is it won't start when hot, two occasions won't start after sitting for a few minutes, tried half choke. Has a primer ball which had fuel in it still. For the price I'd like to stick with it if this is a solvable problem. Spark plug photo was after first tank & then failing to start, I was expecting plug to be a bit wet as I'd pulled it over many times.

 

[MacAttack]

Sounds to me like the carburetor may be experiencing "vapor lock" when it's hot. I think the solution is to use the full choke to get fuel back to the carb but I bet others will chime in too. Your sparkplug is dry so it's not getting flooded.

 

[Old2stroke]

I wanted a fallback option in case my stihl Ms260 has a problem during firewood gathering season, this Radley seemed worth a try rather than an old good brand.

Ran fine, bit less power than my stihl. Only problem is it won't start when hot, two occasions won't start after sitting for a few minutes, tried half choke. Has a primer ball which had fuel in it still. For the price I'd like to stick with it if this is a solvable problem. Spark plug photo was after first tank & then failing to start, I was expecting plug to be a bit wet as I'd pulled it over many times.

Are you trying to start with the throttle closed or on fast idle?

 

[BLR]

Set plug gap to .030.

 

[NSEric]

That model comes set too lean on the low screw to pass emissions test.
Get the right screw driver to adjust it or pop the carb off and cut slots into the screws so a flat blade screw driver works.

I have a few clones, the little 52cc ones are odd. They either run really good and have crappy plastic or have decent plastic but come with the low emissions crappy running motor lol.

 

[Old2stroke]

Check the carb tuning, if you have never adjusted the H and L screws, it is probably running way too lean and could die early. Do a search on how to tune the carb, lots of good info on this forum. If the tuning is correct, the saw should start when hot with the throttle closed but if it doesn't start after a couple of pulls, you have to set the carb to fast idle, no choke. The idle speed should be set just below the rpm where the chain starts to move.
Fuel in the primer bulb when the saw stops is no indication that there is fuel in the carb, bulb fills from the carb when you pump it to start and does not get sucked back into the carb.

 

[telecasterfool]

Don't give up - what has been said is true. It needs tuning, and will need more as it breaks in. This is what you get for cheap. You have to work with them. I have two neotec saws. I had to replace minor parts on each one, out of the box. I had to tune them. They do a lot of work now. Finally, every saw will need to be tuned as temperature or elevation changes, and as it breaks in. It's a good skill to learn, and you will be a better saw operator for it. There is information on this site, and a video or two may help to learn tuning, since you will be able to hear the saw.

 

[Mozzer]

Thank you all for the info, I will get the screwdriver for the adjustment screws. I tried every choke setting (off-idle, half choke-throttle on, full choke) none even tried coughing into life. The plug looked pretty lean to me so will wait for the adjustment screwdrivers before using again.
On another note the chain got really loose quickly, will mark the bar to see if it needs clamping down harder or if just a cheap chain out of the box.