Check out my old Homelite XL

[JasonBmac]

With the exception of some truely antique 2cycles with bushing big-end bearings, you can run any 2 cycle engine at the ratio the oil itself is rated to be used at.

Personally, I run all my 2 cycles on 32:1, but they're happy on a good 40:1 or 50:1 mix, so long as the oil's good for it.

The o-ring fix was holding pressure last night. Used one that had to be stretched slightly over the plug threads.... I'll likely replace the gas gasket this way too.

J

 

[purdyite]

OKay...help!!

I have one of these, looks like the XL2, but doesn' SAY XL2, just XL. Has the long handle. It also has two oil lines coming from the oil tank, but also has the diaphragm pump. Both lines go to fittings at the pump--then a third line runs from what looks like a point on the crankcase to the chain oiler fitting near the chain. After disassembling and cleaning, I am not sure about the re-connections. I can't find a document showing exactly where they go... I am not sure if they were right when I started. Can someone show me conclusive evidence of the proper connections? Thanks for any help!

 

[jprice88]

Anyone still on this thread willing to lend me a hand? I have inherited an old XL. I can't get it to idle at all. When I adjust it I'm getting no change on my low side. As long as I run the trigger it goes fine but obviously something's up. I cleaned out all the old gas mix and oil added some new, replaced the gas filter. I understand how to adjust them just not exactly sure where else to trouble shoot

 

[Eccentric]

Could be many things. Fuel line and carb diaphragms are probably toast. Fuel filter may be munged up. Rebuild the carb and put in a new line and filter.

Could also have an air leak somewhere. Intake gaskets are a good place to look. Crank seals are likely culprits too.

 

[jprice88]

That's what I was afraid of lol and kind of figured I just didn't know where to start .... I think I'm just going to do a tear down and rebuild

 

[Eccentric]

You've gotta expect the rubber parts (diaphragms, lines, and crank seals) to all be shot by now. They've been in there for decades....

 

[jprice88]

How much would it take to rebuild it?(guessing)
All major components are fine like I said. The rubber parts and some. Just wondering if it's worth the rebuild... Sounded mean when I was running it but not sure what to do...

 

[Adirondackstihl]

 

[Eccentric]

How much would it take to rebuild it?(guessing)
All major components are fine like I said. The rubber parts and some. Just wondering if it's worth the rebuild... Sounded mean when I was running it but not sure what to do...

Not much. For the crank seals, go to your local Husqvarna dealer and ask for two 530019059 crank seals. Tell 'em they're for a Husqvarna 23C tophandle saw. That was a Poulan Micro series saw that was rebadged for Husky. They take the same seals as these little Homelites (and Homelite E-Z/Super E-Z saws BTW). They'll be something like $4 each from your dealer or any other Husqvarna/Poulan outlet. If for some reason you can't go that route, you can get SKF 4913 seals from a bearing house or auto parts outlet...


There are two intake gaskets that are a couple bucks each on eBay.

Carb kit is less than $10 shipped if you shop around.

Fuel and oil lines are a few bucks.

You'll need two 69451 'duckbill' valves (one for the oil tank pressure line, and one for the fuel tank vent).

You'll need a good sealer (Hondabond-4 or Threebond 1194/1184 will work fine) for the crankcase. A tube is $8-$10 or so and will last you for years.

That's about it. These are simple saws. Be careful to keep the crank bearings on the crank or you'll be hunting down a bunch of TINY needle bearings.


Download and save this Homelite Shop Manual. Read up on the XL/XL2/Super2 section.

http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og

Find the link for the IPL that pertains to your saw based on the UT#.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws/

 

[jprice88]

Awesome info man thank you I have a husky dealer right up the street. I am pulling it apart tomorrow I guess we will see how bad it is. One thing for sure is its filthy it needs a good cleaning just to be able to see what's going on

 

[Milkman31]

Nice old saws! This is the two trigger mag case. Used it to cut a limb off our old shed.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

View attachment 427885 Nice old saws! This is the two trigger mag case. Used it to cut a limb off our old shed.

Your shed grows limbs? That's cool!

 

[Milkman31]

Your shed grows limbs? That's cool!

It did that day!!!!

 

[jprice88]

Not much.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws/

Hey I just wanted to say thank you again!!! My XL is back in top shape .. After your last advice I tore it all down and rebuild everything ... I have it leaned out and screaming

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have a couple of those old Homelites, both say Super 2 on the starter cover but one has been replaced so it's probably an XL. I have no clue of what engines are in either of them though, I always kept a half dozen engines around and if one quits I just stick another one in it. You can't tell much difference between an XL and a Super 2 as far as running goes if they're tuned right.

 

[Eccentric]

Hey I just wanted to say thank you again!!! My XL is back in top shape .. After your last advice I tore it all down and rebuild everything ... I have it leaned out and screaming

Glad to hear. Don't run 'er too lean though. see my sig line...

 

[jprice88]

Who knows right off hand what bars and chains fit on the homelite? Oregon?

 

[woodeneye]

You can look up your saw by model on Oregon's site and find out what it takes. I've also bought Forester bars for them among others.
http://oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG

 

[jprice88]

Ut 10618 isn't there on the link

 

[ray benson]

Looking at the Oregon link by woodeneye - the super 2, xl and xl2 all use the same bar.