****ING hate cotton weeds of all shapes and sizes...
cherry and birch are ok, a lot like alder.
cherry and birch are ok, a lot like alder.
Exactly, but more importantly, the outer - younger fibres (sapwood) are the strongest and will separate vertically ("barber chair") before they will shear. Heartwood is older harder and brittle. Its much like a young person vs old. So there are lots of variables between/ and with the same species. (growing seasons, temps ect.)Thanks, guys.
If so, is the purpose of the side cuts so that you have less wood to cut, start to finish, on the final cut ... so that you can get the cut done before the tree has a chance to start leaning and possibly barber chair?
A 1/4 or 1/3. Different purposes. This is about safety and advantages. If you 'are able' to go too deep on a leaner then you are adding stress. Inadequate undercut on odd shape trunks can contort the tree and split also or limit hinge control. "side notching" - falling off the direct lean will move the stress to the tension side hinge. it will be heavier to wedge as the undercut deepens also. The real deep undercuts are then used for very large and short trunks. example: 10ft x 6ft leaning up the hill. 80% undercut should bring it down. the BC FALLERS book says up to 50% undercut on sort stubies but it doesn't work. So you make their 50%, 80% and file it under " overcoming a falling difficulty". Workers comp says go as deep as required on stubies. So learn the guide lines (the whys and why not and stick to them unless you have a story why you didn't.I had a feeling that "1/4 to 1/3 of the diameter for the face cut wedge" was an ideal rather than a rule, and your comments confirm that. And it makes sense why they would do that in the axe days.
Thanks again. I'll start using that "axe plumb bob" technique.
I thought there was a difference but I couldn't find it anywhere. I,ll say I'm wrong about "skyborne" and edit my post. Stuff I haven't heard in many many years, Just old terminology, No biggy. Skybound is a tree that won't fall usually due to guessing the wrong lean as the definition reads and as I mentioned in 2nd post.LOL, skyborne and skybound. Not sure I fully understand what you're saying, Westboastfaller.
basic safety stuff like "Never step into the bight of a line".
Thanks, Northmanlogging.
Another question: In the BC Safety videos, I noticed all the loggers were wearing some kind of heavy-duty suspenders that criss-crossed across the back. Do most loggers use that gear? And if so, is there some special purpose for them (weight-bearing, maybe -- like a military web belt)?
Its 2018 brian, that's what nose rings are for. lol.. Maybe not the best answer True you need to be able to use it without the assistance of your hands in the event you were pinned. If I use a padded falling belt harness I will use that otherwise its always pressing into me from the belt harness or backpack overtop. Then you can have straps from rain pants AND some guys use a radio vest which straps on under the arms and across the chest. To much **** that adds to fatigue.I thought had to wear them so a whistle could be mounted in reach of your mouth in case of an accident.?
With the Kevlar fallers pants, I think that holds true for me. I could MAYBE wear a 32 out of the store, They would stay up in the rain. less room in the knees though and too small after the Warsh. 36" and hot wash & dry twice before wearing with suspendersSo yer pants don't fall down?
Very traditional in parts of WA & Ak. My landlord on Prince of Wales Island was close to 80 yrs old. I would have to assume he only owned pin stripped hickory shirts and logger pants with the bottoms cut off.Belts restrict breathing, and its basically a fashion statement of hey, I'm a logger... we're mostly surrounded by environmentalist out here... so it's about the only thing that sets us apart, other than dirty pants.
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