Chimney problems,advice needed.

[Gabriel1982]

Insulated SS liner, bricks/mortar to cover exposed tile at top of existing hack job, a cap that seal inside . No water or condensation. Get a cleanout proper at the bottom of chimney with a cast door, and a SS T- to connect the liner through a thimble to the stove in the room.

I'd add a damper after the stove pipe, not required but good if you get a fire.

I know stainless steel is corrosion resistant but from experience even SS corrodes when exposed to high temperature+ highly corrosive condensates from wood burning or rain water getting in the chimney somehow!
Best performing SS is the high Chromium and Nickel (austenitic type non-magnetic even when "tried" with strong neodymium magnets!
Only way to avoid corrosion is to prevent condensation forming if possible!(50mm of insulation or more). If not, just use temperature resistant brick and rebuild the damn thing when needed
That's what we do around here in Romania when using ceramic tile wood stoves! Stainless steel insulated chimneys are used only in wood burning central heating units,wich are "kind of" expensive at 9000-10000 euros just the stove! But it's the only choice if the house to be heated is located up in mountains ,remote(but peacefull place). And it has a lot of space hundreds of square meters on a few stories...
Plus only wood as fuel ,since gas is nowhere near, LPG tank is not an option,again too up in mountains...
These high Kwh stoves also can burn all kinds of coal, for extended burning time,so it's even easier to load a competent 4x4/6x6 20 ton truck with coal or wood and get it up there in the dry,summer of course! Maintenance too done in spring/summer time ,to be ready for the next winter!

 

[Gabriel1982]

Just wanted to post my solution
Long story short,footer had sunk basically cracking chimney all over.
Not willing to take any chances on my home,I tore the masonary chimney down rebuilt it using selkirk supervent stainless chimney

I purchased the thru wall kit and pipe .it made for a nice installation and I'm really pleased with the way it turned out.

It draws better than my old one did and with the way its designed cleaning chimney will be very easy.

Pictures?!

 

[sean donato]

I know stainless steel is corrosion resistant but from experience even SS corrodes when exposed to high temperature+ highly corrosive condensates from wood burning or rain water getting in the chimney somehow!
Best performing SS is the high Chromium and Nickel (austenitic type non-magnetic even when "tried" with strong neodymium magnets!
Only way to avoid corrosion is to prevent condensation forming if possible!(50mm of insulation or more). If not, just use temperature resistant brick and rebuild the damn thing when needed
That's what we do around here in Romania when using ceramic tile wood stoves! Stainless steel insulated chimneys are used only in wood burning central heating units,wich are "kind of" expensive at 9000-10000 euros just the stove! But it's the only choice if the house to be heated is located up in mountains ,remote(but peacefull place). And it has a lot of space hundreds of square meters on a few stories...
Plus only wood as fuel ,since gas is nowhere near, LPG tank is not an option,again too up in mountains...
These high Kwh stoves also can burn all kinds of coal, for extended burning time,so it's even easier to load a competent 4x4/6x6 20 ton truck with coal or wood and get it up there in the dry,summer of course! Maintenance too done in spring/summer time ,to be ready for the next winter!

Stainless chimneys and chimney liners are pretty common. I put up a triple walled insulated chimney like the OP just this past spring. Wasn't terribly expensive compared to the other options I was given. I can say it's way better draft then what the old masonry chimney was.

 

[loadthestove]

Pictures?!

Didnt think to get any as I was building the chimney but I have a couple of it nearly completed.
Second pic is off the clean out on the bottom of chimney also left a removable panel so I can access the chimney
The reason I didnt go all way to ground is I have a patio storage box that will fit under the chimney

 

[moresnow]

Just wanted to post my solution
Long story short,footer had sunk basically cracking chimney all over.
Not willing to take any chances on my home,I tore the masonary chimney down rebuilt it using selkirk supervent stainless chimney

I purchased the thru wall kit and pipe .it made for a nice installation and I'm really pleased with the way it turned out.

It draws better than my old one did and with the way its designed cleaning chimney will be very easy.

Very very wise move imo. I really like the Supervent product. Fill us in on where you bought the pipe etc. Curious.

 

[loadthestove]

I purchased everything thru my Local Lowes home improvement

I have a friend that works the commercial sales desk so he was able to get me a discount on the items I needed .
I got the thru wall kit for $425.00
The pipe sections 6 x 36 double wall insulated for $90.00 a section.
Several videos available on youtube,A project that any competent DiY'er can manage on their own

 

[moresnow]

I wondered if you had used Menards. I order from them and have it dropped on my porch. Very efficient. Sounds like your Lowes connection worked great.

 

[Del_]

How is the new chimney working out.

It sure looks good!

 

[loadthestove]

How is the new chimney working out.

It sure looks good!

Couldn't be any more satisified,much better draft than before.
Stove seem to burn hotter,glass in door staying cleaner .
Much easier to establish a good draft from a cold start
I have all the symptoms of a "clean" operating stove
I'm very well pleased with it.
Also for me ,as a bonus it very easy for me to inspect the chimney both inside and out

 

[just Dave]

It draws better than my old one did and with the way its designed cleaning chimney will be very easy.

You made the best possible choice. Easy cleaning will pay you back year after year.