Chips under running chain-How?

[jnsn]

The other day I was cutting with my Jonsy 2152 (Just Back from Dan's) in some large oak. I would say about 2 foot diameter because the 16" bar fell well short of cutting across.Normally I would have used a bigger set-up, but there I was. As I was cutting through the piece I was feeling some "turbulance" with the bar, and thinking I had hit something I let off the trottle and pulled the bar out. I noticed I had wood chips between the chain and bar on the underside of the bar. I gunned it and it cleared. I put it back in- same thing happened. This time I went to my truck, took off the bar and chain, flipped it over and put it back on. Same thing happened again. Tension of chain was good, roller tip working etc. I am assuming I am an idiot but does anyone have any insight as to how this could happen? All I could think of today was that somehow I was positioning the saw so that the chips could not clear. Thanks

 

[wiley_p]

You need to ream your cut, there is too much wood to carry out because your tip is buried.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by wiley_p
You need to ream your cut, there is too much wood to carry out because your tip is buried.

What is meant by ..."ream your cut"?

 

[Gypo Logger]

When using a new bar and chain the tolerances are close, so any sawdust in there will cause binding. This will happen if you use anything less than full throttle when buried in the wood.
Before the next cut, goose the saw a few times for a well oiled start and hold it to the pin while cutting.
John

 

[jnsn]

Thanks for the responses. What is meant by "reaming" the cut? In retrospect I may have been leaning on the saw a little. I was running wide open the whole cut.

 

[Lewis Brander]

Chips under running chain:

jnsn, I can see what Gypo Logger says makes sence. My question is, have you replaced the drive sprocket and gone to a larger one? Just thinking that if you just got the saw back from Dan's, that someone might have replaced the sprocket to get more chain speed. Usually this may lead to the chain jumping off the bar, under load, but also may cause chips to be carried in between the bar and chain. Just a though. Lewis.

 

[turnkey4099]

Originally posted by Gypo Logger
When using a new bar and chain the tolerances are close, so any sawdust in there will cause binding. This will happen if you use anything less than full throttle when buried in the wood.
Before the next cut, goose the saw a few times for a well oiled start and hold it to the pin while cutting.
John

Also curious as I am having the same problem with two saws, i.e., cutting fine then bogging, pull out, jazz, clears and back in. Can it be done -in the cut- vice pulling all the way??

Harry K

 

[wiley_p]

You pull the bar off and pout of the cut a little It is needed to clear the cutremember your bar is buried in wood, in the woods here one is bucking stuff routinely that is over the bar lentgh, you caN also use reaming to keep cutting on a kerf that is closeing up kind of the same when ripping wood without a ripping chain if you dog up tight and let those long hamster shavings pack upunder the clutch cover you bind up pulling back a little will help clear that crap out.

 

[Saw Man]

Easily can happen couple ways.

1. Bar being shorter than the tree, let's say you made a plunge cut, and when pulling up, OR down both side of the bar are cutting. Since the wood chips are carried between the cutters, the top side as it's going around the nose packs the chips in tighter, and begins to overload the bottom.
Kind of like making the chain constipated, and should notice reduced chain speed.

2. Bar groove getting full, causing chain to ride up. Clean bar groove, and examine drive link hook. If it's worn, and/or flattening out, you can reform it using a small round file.
The hook is there to help clean out the groove.

This can also be aggreviated by a sticky/full sprocket nose. Causes chain to stack.

3. Chain guage mismatched. Ie say chain is .050, bar was a .058, as the chain lays over in the groove, it can begin to stack up, and load up. Not the most common cause.

4. Ripping cuts can pack slivers in the clutch cover, reducing clearing.

5. Clutch cover not clearing it self. Caused by large deep bark, short or no bucking spike, which kind of plugs the cover holes.

 

[jnsn]

wiley-so by reaming out the cut you mean to let the chain run with no pressure, so that it is not cutting, but cleaning out the chips?

Lewis Brander- I would assume that if Dan changed a part like a sprocket he would charge me for the new one and also give me the old one in case I wanted to switch back. I have thought about one but was unsure if the saw would come back with enough nuts to cut with a bigger sprocket. (it left here a 52cc) After having used it a few days, I think that I would try it. It has gained much torque and positively screams when wide open

Saw Man-Interestingly enough, I replaced the dogs with a blank. I find that in smaller wood that they fetch up on things, and I hardly have to lever the saw. I only have them on my larger saw.I'll have to try an experiment. I was thinking that it most likely had to do with the cover getting so full that some is sent out with the chain.

 

[glens]

I was thinking about the cover being too full, too.&nbsp; But that would allow chips to be packed in under the chain on the <i>top</i> of the bar and I don't see how they'd get from there to the bottom.

Maybe with all that extra power, you need to go to a semi-skip or maybe even a skip chain. LOL

Glen

 

[Saw Man]

glens,
Your right as most chip/sliver discharge comes out the bottom, but if the clutch cover area starts getting constapaited, chips/slivers are carried (dragged) around the top also.

Saws that have tight (little clearance area), discharge angle of clutch cover too steep are subject to that. Saw cuts faster than it can discharge with shorter bars in soft wood.

Another way but easy to resolve, is if bucking near the ground where the saw bottom is in the chip pile where can also block discharge, and carry-pick up chips/slivers.

 

[wiley_p]

Yes basically everyone has made good points but it seems they are'nt seeing that regardless of the things they are addressing when you are in big wood reaming is as importanta techniqe as lining up cuts. I back off pressure and even pull in and out a likttle.

 

[turnkey4099]

Originally posted by glens
I was thinking about the cover being too full, too.&nbsp; But that would allow chips to be packed in under the chain on the <i>top</i> of the bar and I don't see how they'd get from there to the bottom.

Maybe with all that extra power, you need to go to a semi-skip or maybe even a skip chain. LOL

Glen

Yep, that is what my problem is, i.e., cutting in soft wood (willow) and saw not able to discharge the cuttings fast enough. Even cutting in tall grass causes the problem of chip build-up. So reaming probably isn't going to solve much and I will just have to live with it...or maybe cut with dull chain

Harry K

 

[geofore]

chip buildup

The "I may have been leaning on it a little bit", Why are you leaning on it? Is it a race? You are not racing to see how fast you can take the tree down, let the saw and chain do the cutting, don't try to force it through the cut. Gently rock the saw in the cut to clear the chips as you go when you have the bar buried in the wood. Short of racing you have time to do this to clear the chips that build up in the kerf and then force their way into and under your chain. You should hear the RPM's drop if you are leaning too hard and it's time to back off a little and give the saw a wiggle in the cut to clear the chip build up. The idea is to not try to push the saw through the wood faster than it can clear the chips. A little wrist action to wiggle the saw to clear the chips works. A lot of wrist action and hang on, your going to get the saw to kick back at you if you're not careful. If the chain and bar are matched to fit one another you may be trying to force the saw too fast through the cut, let the saw and chain do the work. Your chain will keep it's edge longer and you won't wear yourself out pushing the saw and chain to do more than they were designed to do. One of the harder things to learn to do is not to force the saw, let the saw do the work.
The saw being just back from Dan's I'll bet you're leaning on it to see what it can do, back off a little and just get used to what it does first then you'll know how hard you can push it and get away with later. JMO