Choke Baffle Removal

[Gypo Logger]

Hi There, I was thinking of removing the choke baffle and shaft from my 088 in order to reap a substancial gain in power. If I remove the shaft it leaves two vacant holes in the carb. body. Is it neccesary to plug these up and if so what material should I use? Or should I just run it sans air filtre?
John

 

[Rotax Robert]

I used JB weld on mine, also you can hone out any bumps and ridges.....If you want any real gain though you will need to work your ports.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I toyed with the idea of doing this on my 670 also. since I have an external k&N filter what should I use to cover it to simulate a choke when starting?

 

[Dave]

Husky- cover it with ether

 

[dozerdan]

Huskyman
Try a sandwich bag and seal it with a rubber band.
Later
Dan

 

[confused]

I did that very thing with my Jetski motor John... I wish i had a digital camera. Anyways us JB weld like Robert suggested. As far as the choke thing. What we did was rig up a primer pump. Rather easy with the jet ski. Starts 1000 times better with the primmer than that d@#n choke. It works perfectly. I will have to take another look at the location of the primer outlet. If I remember right we actually used one of the choke plate holes as a place to put the primer outlet. anyways good luck and have fun. O and let us know what you end up doing, I'm quite curious how it ends up.

 

[kdhotsaw]

choke shaft and plate

Hi john.
What we have been doing is using permatex 598 ultrablack rtv sealer to seal off the two choke shaft holes. if you decide to reinstall the choke shaft and plate at a later date its relatively easy. also have installed early 3120 primer bulb systems in one of the choke shaft holes. but i dont know if you should put a husky part on a stihl. lol. sent you a photo of my 084 carb with the sealer in choke shaft holes

ken

 

[kdhotsaw]

choke work

Hi john,
enclosed is another photo of the same 084 carb along side of a unmodified 084 tillitson ht-1. we have removed the choke shaft and plate, filled the holes with 580 rtv sealer. flared the inlet side of the carb to match the adapter which utilizes a foam filter. this system will net you a nice power gain
on the huskys its more difficult, they have a 90 degree elbow at the rear of the carb so the airflow must turn and as it does it runs right into the choke plate as it is turning. we convert the huskys into a straight in shot like the stihls. straighten out the airflow so to speak. on my 288 we tested before and after the modifications and went from a 15 second cut to a 12.2 second cut

 

[HUSKYMAN]

Wow you really opened that baby up. How long would it take to do the porting with a dremel tool? Also I am really interested in seeing how you "straightened" the elbow as my Jonsered also has a plastic elbow that looks quite restrictive.

 

[kdhotsaw]

HT-1 Carb

Hello huskyman,
I do that particular carb on The lathe.We also open the venturi up from .900 to 1.00 for better airflow. You can probably do it with a dremel in a couple of hours. you dont have to go that radical for a woods saw. the 90 degree elbow is a real problem. if you remove your choke plate and shaft that really helps because the air doesn't ram into the plate . also spacing the elbow back a ways helps the airflow. the newer 372 elbow also is a lot better its oval shaped and also farther back from the carb so it flows much better. the best system is to try to come straight out of your carb like stihl does iif space permits. it will flow more air than the 90 degree elbow will flow. you will just have to see if you have enough room on your jonsered to do it.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Ken, this is all interesting stuff, and just like toddlers you are teaching us to walk for the first time. We all have little cracks in us where little bits of information seaps in. There is no end to it and it all starts with a Walkerized saw and moves up from there.
Thanks, Art, Ken, Walt , Dennis, Robert and Johnny Walker for sharing your hard found information.
Remember, all we can take with us is our reputation.
John