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About any solvent, then compressed air, the higher the better.
Cleaning Up Saw Carcasses?
- Thread starter SteveSr
- Start date
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Want to use something that cuts oil good good first. Most of the crap is soaked in bar oil. Diesel is cheap and available but stinks. Dish detergent is cheap and will wash off the diesel.
Purple power is corrosive I don’t use it for that reason. Will tarnish non-ferrous metals on contact when used full strength.
I soaked a bunch of nasty old chainsaw plastics and caked up cylinders in buckets of hot water with plenty of dish soap. Popped on the lid and shake it every day or three. It took three weeks to loosen the nasties on old 084 parts and top covers that were beat to death. Twenty minutes in the USC was all they needed after that long soak. Before at the repair shop it was mostly pressure washing on an open or closed motor of any kind. Just run them once reassembled or install your new seals if the bearings are still wet and fill the bock with some oil overnight on short block assemblies I prefer to blow off all the steel parts with high pressure air most times and replace the crank seals in most engines. Run it ASAP. In the 1980's and 90's stuff got dumped in buckets of acetone with ATF, kerosene or #1 fuel oil/diesel to soak before cleaning. Old equipment and tractor parts were just as bad as chainsaws maybe worse with sand in hardened up old greasy parts. Soap is amazing kept wet and given some time. Avoid old gasoline because of the smell. New gas might be a bad idea indoors from fumes and such. Definitely store it outdoors far from your structures when using an old bucket of gas.
Really stopped using the big oval crock pot with a big heated USC here now.
Pods turn things dark grey if you cook it long enough. Not the look I wanted.
Pods turn things dark grey if you cook it long enough. Not the look I wanted.
I spray with engine degreaser, let it sit for a while then hose off.
If I'm dismantling it I use kerosene and a cheap paintbrush (the bristles are good at getting inside crevices) and old toothbrushes.
A lot will wipe off with paper towels first.
If I'm dismantling it I use kerosene and a cheap paintbrush (the bristles are good at getting inside crevices) and old toothbrushes.
A lot will wipe off with paper towels first.
KonaMauka
ArboristSite Lurker
That is brilliant! Get a used dishwasher for free. Put a water-based cleaning solution in it and go !! Awesome !!
best parts brush I've tried so far
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Cleani...1662842418&sprefix=parts+brush,aps,163&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Cleani...1662842418&sprefix=parts+brush,aps,163&sr=8-6
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is this stuff like Gunk Engine Brite? If so it is just kerosene in a spray can.
I have found that the caustic/soap de-greasers work well on organic stuff like pine/tree sap.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I like the hold down idea. Gotta use something that can take getting wet. Not my wooden saw horses or work tables.
How does the ultrasonic work on plastics?
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like the common denominator.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like a good one. Watch out for the cheap HF brushes... the bristles are good but they aren't folded and there is nothing to hold them in except the cheap metal ferrule. Its a PITA to use as the bristles keep working their way out.
Not kerosene no. Here is the msds and the link. It’s the only stuff I use as it’s the only stuff that reliably gets the heavy grimy / greasy / oily deposits off easy
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-workshop-degreaser---400g/610460.html
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Steve Garrett
ArboristSite Lurker
I use mineral spirits in a spray bottle and compressed air. Toothbrushes are also great for stubborn spots.
