Common issues with a 455 Rancher?

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Counselor

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On my weekend pawnshop run this morning I found a Husky 455 Rancher. Saw is in pretty good shape, top cover has a crack and the side cover has a crack as well. Other than that it checked out pretty good, bar straight, good chain.....

The saw started on the second pull (I know it was sitting at least 3 months because pawns have to sit that long).....It ran hard, no stuttering but would not idle at all, it would stall out and die when dropped to idle.

The price was quite reasonable I thought at $185. They offer a three day 100% cash back return policy.

Worth doing?
 
Keep looking. A 455 Rancher can be had in like new condition for $200 to $250. Remember, they were sold a big box stores (namely Lowes) so lots of them got treated poorly by homeowners and DIYers (wrong gas mix, no bar oil, wide open throttle with super dull chain, etc). I think they're a real gamble.
 
Sorry about my short response. It may have an air leak or something and being a clamshell saw, it isn't as easy to fix. Check ebay for prices.
 
455's are junk unless you use a saw very seldom.
A friend burnt his up clearing a 1 acre house lot.
Maybe it was a melon, but you wouldn't catch me buying one
XP's are the way to go
 
455's are junk unless you use a saw very seldom.
A friend burnt his up clearing a 1 acre house lot.
Maybe it was a melon, but you wouldn't catch me buying one
XP's are the way to go
That is throwing a lot of uncertainties at a saw. Burning up a homeowner saw on one acre screams about mistreatment and I am not talking about the load of work it has to fullfill. Sounds more like the classic box store story, not adjusted carb, run with a dull chain, always maximum pressure to the saw in the belief it will cut faster then, etc.
Don't want to say anything bad about your friend but it simply sounds like the classic homeowner story!

It surely isn't a fast or light saw but with proper maintenance and care it should last many years to a firewooder.

7
 
That is throwing a lot of uncertainties at a saw. Burning up a homeowner saw on one acre screams about mistreatment and I am not talking about the load of work it has to fullfill. Sounds more like the classic box store story, not adjusted carb, run with a dull chain, always maximum pressure to the saw in the belief it will cut faster then, etc.
Don't want to say anything bad about your friend but it simply sounds like the classic homeowner story!

It surely isn't a fast or light saw but with proper maintenance and care it should last many years to a firewooder.

7
I see what you're saying, but the person always keeps his chain sharp, and knows what he's doing(50+ years cutting wood).
I believe it was the carb... maybe a bit lean. Combine that with a hot and humid day, and you've got a problem.
Bottom line is these saws aren't designed to be treated like an XP, and that's fine. It's designed to meet the homeowner's needs, not a professional's.
 
I picked up one that was almost brand new,, maybe a couple of tanks run through it,,,, the guy never could get it run right,,,, he told me to give him,,, I believe,,, 20 bucks for it and get it out of his sight,,,, so I paid him,, got it home and he was right,,, it wouldn't run worth a crap,,, got to checking everything and come to find out the coil screws had backed out or wasn't tightened at the factory,, set the gap and tightened everything down,,, ran like a champ,, sold it for over 200
 
I see what you're saying, but the person always keeps his chain sharp, and knows what he's doing(50+ years cutting wood).
I believe it was the carb... maybe a bit lean. Combine that with a hot and humid day, and you've got a problem.
Bottom line is these saws aren't designed to be treated like an XP, and that's fine. It's designed to meet the homeowner's needs, not a professional's.


Good thing he's been cutting for 50+ years yet doesn't know how to tune a carb or account for the conditions at the time.

Take all the homeowner, landowner and professional "classifications" and toss them out the window. The only thing that comes close to determining that is the end user. Not any marketing garbage.

Any saw not used as intended or looked after will suffer the same fate.
 
I think that's too much for a damaged 455.

Most of my saws are arguably homeowner saws, many of them plastic cased - but I'm not a pro and I don't need a "pro" saw. I'm presently working on my Dad's 455R (he ran crap fuel through it and ruined the carb) - I very impressed with it. I think it is quite well designed and well made. It's smooth, clean running thanks to a great strato system, and has plenty of power for a 20" bar. The carb, filter and intake system work well, and all the pieces fit properly. Also, they got it right using an outboard clutch and a metal clutch cover, rather than putting an inboard clutch up next to a plastic case. It's a little heavy and not the most powerful, but it's plenty adequate for getting all the work done I would need.

If someone runs it poorly tuned and damages it, that's not the saw's fault.
 
I have found my rancher to leak bar oil. But other then that it runs and cuts great. I got it used. I think it's a 2002. Seen lots of use from me. And looked to see a lot from the prevoius owner. Still ticking along.
 
Good thing he's been cutting for 50+ years yet doesn't know how to tune a carb or account for the conditions at the time.

Take all the homeowner, landowner and professional "classifications" and toss them out the window. The only thing that comes close to determining that is the end user. Not any marketing garbage.

Any saw not used as intended or looked after will suffer the same fate.
That's what I got out of the story, nothing more and nothing less.
Was it a factory problem? I haven't a clue.
Operator mistake? Don't know.
I just know that he's had 266's, 272's, and 371's over the years and hasn't managed to burn them up. Why this 455 subdued so quickly is beyond me.
 
User aside, they are not professional saws, and just aren't the same. I think most if it is probably in the manufacturing processes. A little more care could be taken in the assembly process that would make the saws last much longer because simple issues would be eliminated (loose coils, loose carbs, intakes causing air leaks, etc.)

Most of these saws sold aren't going to see more than a couple hours run time a year statistically. Husky knows this and sets the manufacturing process up accordingly.


This is why a used MS290 holds value so well. Much more care is taken when manufacturing those saws. Besides that, the 445, 455, and 460 should be right with the MS290, MS310, 390, etc. Now it'd be the 291, 311, and 391.

Same comparison applies with the husqapoulan saws vs the 170 and 180 saws to some degree.
 
I own an ms170 and a 192t and use both commercially. No problems, give it a sharp chain, good tune and some respect
 
Counselor, I have rebuilt 8 or so 455 ranchers. Had one that wouldn't idle... like yours. Swapped the carb out for new. all better. revs fine, idles fine, runs fine. For $185, w/ broken pieces, likely not worth it. Carbs are $50 or so on ebay. I've sold 455's on CL for 250-275 ... $275 max for completely rebuilt ones. Personally, I think its a fine saw for what it is. Had it up against an MS290 that I had recently torn apart and put back together, the 455 was slightly faster through a cut... 12sec vs13. Personnally, I prefer taking appart 455s rather than 290s.....easier. Also, 455's are EVERYWHERE ...which means parts are EVERYWHERE. this is a good thing. take care of the saw if you decide to keep it.... throw a new carb on and cut wood!

-Mattyo
 
User aside, they are not professional saws, and just aren't the same. I think most if it is probably in the manufacturing processes. A little more care could be taken in the assembly process that would make the saws last much longer because simple issues would be eliminated (loose coils, loose carbs, intakes causing air leaks, etc.)

Most of these saws sold aren't going to see more than a couple hours run time a year statistically. Husky knows this and sets the manufacturing process up accordingly.


This is why a used MS290 holds value so well. Much more care is taken when manufacturing those saws. Besides that, the 445, 455, and 460 should be right with the MS290, MS310, 390, etc. Now it'd be the 291, 311, and 391.

Same comparison applies with the husqapoulan saws vs the 170 and 180 saws to some degree.
Sorry, but this is nonsense speculation unless you have actual data on the failure rate compared to other saws they make - remember they sell a ton of these. A few instances can make it seem like there is a big problem, but the rate may be very low. Like most homeowner saws, the biggest problem is usually the user.

The 455 is quite well designed and made, and compared to the MS290 has more content and is much easier to work on. The Stihl plastic cased saws hold their "value" due to marketing/name recognition from the homeowner crowd they are made for, but in my opinion contain some design errors that show a lack of understanding of the material properties they are working with (bar studs threaded into plastic, inboard clutches, needlessly complex assembly, some weak connecting rods).

People trash plastic cased saws, but while it did not appeal to me as a material it has proven to be effective and a suitable material for cases. I don't read of people breaking them, and I just rebuilt a saw with a case from 1995. The stuff is tough, less expensive, and it doesn't corrode, but it does seem to be heavier and it can melt.
 
Sorry, but this is nonsense speculation unless you have actual data on the failure rate compared to other saws they make - remember they sell a ton of these. A few instances can make it seem like there is a big problem, but the rate may be very low. Like most homeowner saws, the biggest problem is usually the user.

The 455 is quite well designed and made, and compared to the MS290 has more content and is much easier to work on. The Stihl plastic cased saws hold their "value" due to marketing/name recognition from the homeowner crowd they are made for, but in my opinion contain some design errors that show a lack of understanding of the material properties they are working with (bar studs threaded into plastic, inboard clutches, needlessly complex assembly, some weak connecting rods).

People trash plastic cased saws, but while it did not appeal to me as a material it has proven to be effective and a suitable material for cases. I don't read of people breaking them, and I just rebuilt a saw with a case from 1995. The stuff is tough, less expensive, and it doesn't corrode, but it does seem to be heavier and it can melt.

As for hard data, no I don't have it. You are correct there. Haven't really dealt with enough of them to have anything statistically significant. That being said, I don't think its complete nonsense. Definitely don't think they're poorly made compared to the Stihl competitors either-I was trying to say that I think stihl takes a little better care in manufacturing their's, and the customer pays for it.

From what I have seen these saws typically don't get used a lot. I think we could come up with a list of things to check when they're new that would make them great saws. I just don't think these things are getting done from the factory. I did speculate a reason for this.
Admittedly, not backed by hard data. More educated guesses based on a some experiences with the saws.
 
Ben, after taking apart quite a few 455's ... they truly are the sum of their parts. The problem w/ these saws, like ANY other saws, is that if ANY little thing is wrong, they don't start. There's so little redundancy in systems on saws that there is little to no fault tolerance for anything. Frankly I believe its a miracle anything runs. part of owning a saw is learning its nuts and bolts. I firmly believe that VERY FEW people should own their own cars, homes, pets, saws etc because they simply take so much learning and responsibility, NONE of which is given in school today. Who here learned how to tune a carb in high school???

Every saw, IMHO needs to be regularly taken apart and put back together. Potentially immediately after being bought new.... the owner learns the saw (regardless of brand) and will know for sure what bolts are torqued to what. I'm very new to saws... but even in that short time I've been playing with them, thats my conclusion. Do I really believe that one factory (husky) vs another (stihl) torques their bolts better or worse? nope. could easily have been someone having a bad day. so tighten the bolt and move on ....simple as that. For me, the 455 rancher is easy to take apart, and easy to find parts for. It cuts well enough for most homeowners, as well as gives an education. thats a win win all around. ms290's are a different ballgame to take apart. I like their design better in some places, worse in others. 455's ... I can the piston in my hand in a hurry.... ms290, not so much. maybe thats just me. rant over :)
 
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