Compression on a Homelite Super XL?

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champion221elite

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I inherited my late grandfather's old Super XL several years ago and have used it quite a bit. I checked the serial number and found its a 1978 model. I have no idea how many hours are on this saw. It does pass the "redneck" method of checking compression but feels less than my other saws. I bought a gauge and found the compression is 110 warm and 120 cold.

Everything I've read about saws so far suggests I should be around 140-150 for a healthy engine.

Were the Super XL's a lower compression engine, or is mine in need of a rebuild?

I have pulled the muffler and there are some scratches on the piston. It still runs and cuts, but I don't want to do any damage.
 
Nah, 110-120 should be okay for that saw. It probably had more than that when new but yours has a reed valve and doesn't require quite as much as a piston ported engine like a Stihl or Husky. My Lawn Boy mower is a two stroke reed valve engine and has only about 90 compression and I've used it for several years that way...I own a Super XLAO and doubt if mine could come up with 120 on the compression..
 
It runs, idles and cuts well. I wish I knew how it ran when new, but that was before I was even born. It pulls a 16" chain just fine. It does not rev like the new stuff, but that's fairly typical of the reed valve engines from what I've read. I can hook up my tach later today and find out how fast its running without a load.
 
As far as saws go, the Super XL is heavy, loud, not very fuel efficient and slow compared to newer stuff. My Super XL however belonged to my grandfather and its the only thing of his that I ended up with. I will certainly do my best to take care of it, and keep it running.
 
It runs, idles and cuts well. I wish I knew how it ran when new, but that was before I was even born. It pulls a 16" chain just fine. It does not rev like the new stuff, but that's fairly typical of the reed valve engines from what I've read. I can hook up my tach later today and find out how fast its running without a load.
Pull the muffler and look at piston, this will tell you condition of engine, plus de carbon the exhaust port and spark screen if present.
 
I have already pulled the muffler and it was nowhere near as bad as the photo posted above. Just one single scratch on the exhaust side of the piston. The exhaust port, screen and muffler were surprisingly clean. I did scrape a very thin layer of carbon from the exhaust port, but it was not bad at all. I've seen far worse, most notably an old Craftsman leaf blower that I did an autopsy on a few years ago. That exhaust port was almost completely blocked.
 
There's still a market for the Old Blue version of this saw. They sell considerably higher in my experience than the Big Red version. I doubt that my current red one is worth $50 but I did manage to sell an Old Blue one for around $200 but it was nearly perfect..
 
Nah, 110-120 should be okay for that saw. It probably had more than that when new but yours has a reed valve and doesn't require quite as much as a piston ported engine like a Stihl or Husky. My Lawn Boy mower is a two stroke reed valve engine and has only about 90 compression and I've used it for several years that way...I own a Super XLAO and doubt if mine could come up with 120 on the compression..
Nice! I have a 1968 Homelite Super XL with clean piston, slight scoring on cylinder wall, 127psi (cold)
Needs carb rebuilt, oil tank overhaul.
 

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