Compression tester

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YEPPP.

I owned one from Autozone and and Lisle from O'Reilly's. The AZ lasted about 9 months and the Lisle lasted a couple of months. I wasted about half of what my SnapOn cost new. I bought mine used from Ebay for about half the new price.

That is where I bought my Matco as well.
 
I'm happy with the Sears Craftsman compression tester I have. Came in a nice case and with a bunch of adapter hoses. Valve in the end on all of them as well.
 
I Have a Craftsman Set i bought at Sears...Comes with a hard case and attachments for about anything.... I think i paid about $60 for it..Pretty nice set..

I'm happy with the Sears Craftsman compression tester I have. Came in a nice case and with a bunch of adapter hoses. Valve in the end on all of them as well.

Hear hear!
 
When my old napa balcamps finally started giving up, I bought a China off ebay, then 1 from Baily's, and then a Lisle from 1 of the autoparts stores that they assured me was top quality. 1 of the first 2 was reading quite a bit low which I didn't realize right away and I was using the readings on ebay descriptions :msp_mad:.I'm not confident in any of them, even the Lisle. I think for most people its well worth buying a good 1. Sure wish I would of from the start. Probably would of got more then enough more from the saws sold on ebay to pay for a nice 1.
 
Allows pressure to be released so reading can be repeated to double-check without unscrewing the tester from the cylinder head.

ERRRRRRRRRRrrr, nope.

You need a check valve at the base of the inlet pipe bc there are no valves to trap the compressed gasses. Without a check valve you could never get an accurate reading bc the compressed gasses escape as soon as the piston passes the top of the exhaust port.
 
...You need a check valve at the base of the inlet pipe bc there are no valves to trap the compressed gasses. Without a check valve you could never get an accurate reading bc the compressed gasses escape as soon as the piston passes the top of the exhaust port.

Yes. Meant to say that a check valve at the base of the inlet is required, but a valve near the gauge is handy in order to recheck readings without having to unscrew the tester from the cylinder.
 
Mine says Sears model 161.217103. Bought it many years ago an have used it on cars, trucks, boats, saws,,, Never had a problem with it and I feel the readings are fairly accurate as everything I test shows good readings on good saws, bad readings on saws with an issue. I have nothing to compare it to but I'm happy for now.
 
I guess I'm the odd man out....:alien2:
I have the harbor freight one...and have for several years.
It still works and I am happy...if it dies I will replace it. :yoyo:
 
And the release is plugged...ouch!

the original one failed ,didn't want to stay up ,that plug was temporary ,it has a new valve now ,it actually starts pretty easy without the decomp ,that saw has real nice crisp throttle response
 
ERRRRRRRRRRrrr, nope.

You need a check valve at the base of the inlet pipe bc there are no valves to trap the compressed gasses. Without a check valve you could never get an accurate reading bc the compressed gasses escape as soon as the piston passes the top of the exhaust port.

All compression testers have a non return valve somewhere otherwise you would only get an instantaneous reading. Some of the automotive types have this valve on the gauge end of the flexible tube so the pressure of the air in the tube has to exceed the gauge pressure to make it climb further. This is no real problem with larger capacity cylinders as the air in the tube is only a small fraction of the total volume. With a small cylinder like a chainsaw the air in the tube becomes a significant volume and readings will be low. Also the check valve needs to be a lightly sprung one. Old ones from the tire store don't work
 
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