Considering Husqvarna 460 24in

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You ever get a CSM life wont be the same...

:cheers: I want a 2186, but can't justify it right now. Thought about a mill for a while but decided to wait a bit.

Cut alot of firewood in my life,,but after I got into milling,,,seems like I aint burning up the whole tree,,and end up with some good boards to make things to last a lifetime...It's fun,,it is just great to be outside and you feel like this tree is gonna be made into something...It's kinda time comsuming,,,not like running a log tru a band saw,,but when you get done in the day and see the boards ya made,,You get this high about ya...Kinda hard to explane till ya do it.......
And like the chainsaw site here,,the people in the millin site would always help with any questions...What I enjoy about arboristsite...Alot of good people on here...:clap:
 
Hi Plant...Brain bucket might be a good idea too...Heard of some kickbacks to the head also while trees on the ground..Been there myself my friend...The 028 damn near got me if it wasnt for the chainbrake...About broke my left wrist it kicked so hard,,and today,,I still dont know how that happened...
I'd like to learn more about kickback. I understand where the kickback zone of the bar is and I pay keen attention to the bar tip when cutting, but . . .

Curious, that you can't put your finger on the why for your event.

I'm told my 455 has an anti-kickback chain, not a clue just what that is?
 
Anti kickback chain,,and rakers...

Prob. alot more people could explane that better than I can,,but no chain is anti kickback...
My kickback happend when I was in my 20's,,I'm 46 now,,so that tells ya how long ago it was,,but havent ever forgot it....
I was using my Dad's 028 super and was pretty new ,,,he always used Mcculloch's so this was a diffrent experance for us all...
I was bucking a log on the ground,,and nothing in front to hit the tip with,,,but I was going WOT and all a sudden,,,wam,,,My left arm was up about chest high,,and the bar of the saw was about 12 inches frm my middle of my head...It happened so fast and I still dont know why or how it happened...I just was damn lucky....I never had that to happen again,,and still cant explane why or how...
Just make sure you get some kinda PPE...Chaps a big plus,,,and like Plant said,,,how you make a cut,,make sure you stand to the side of the bar....Just becarefull my friend,,and never get into a hurry...
Enjoy your Husky,,take good care of her,,and take time for cleaning and maint. on her... Oh,,Thanks too for the pics.........:clap:
 
I'd like to learn more about kickback. I understand where the kickback zone of the bar is and I pay keen attention to the bar tip when cutting, but . . .

Curious, that you can't put your finger on the why for your event.

I'm told my 455 has an anti-kickback chain, not a clue just what that is?

It's a safety chain with supposed anti kickback bits between the cutters. They work ok but don't cut as fast as non safety chain. You probably got a file with your new saw? You should learn too file and keep that good and sharp between uses. (You mentioned that your friend sharpened your old one) A good sharp chain makes a big difference no matter the saw your using. Much more efficient. Good Luck with the new saw.
 
So I went to the local, 25-mi, Stihl dealer and they didn't even carry the MS290 Farm Boss, Stihl's most popular saw, say what? The only saw that would carry a 20" bar started at $490. Then he started talking down Husqvarna, thank you no.

So I went to my local Husqvarna dealer and got a 455 Rancher, 20". He spent at least a half-hour bench tuning the motor, adjusting the high speed, idle and mixture setting for 8000+ feet. Sounded real sweet when he finished.

Sure glad I didn't order it online. I wouldn't of had a clue how to tune the engine.

Tomorrow I'll take it out and block a 40' x 18" D and see how it goes.

Thanks to all for the advice. :)



Congrats on the new saw, on finding the right dealer...regardless of brand, and on finding the right saw for your wallet and your cutting needs.

Kevin
 
It's a safety chain with supposed anti kickback bits between the cutters. They work ok but don't cut as fast as non safety chain. You probably got a file with your new saw? You should learn too file and keep that good and sharp between uses. (You mentioned that your friend sharpened your old one) A good sharp chain makes a big difference no matter the saw your using. Much more efficient. Good Luck with the new saw.

Cannot overemphasize the importance of a sharp chain. A small, underpowered saw with the most kickback resistant chain will cut faster if sharp, than a larger, more pwerful saw with less safety oriented (more aggressive tooth pattern) chain if it's dull. Tha sharpest chain (sharpened to factory specification) is also the safest, least kickback prone chain (sharp chain wants to cut wood, dull chain is more likely to grab in wood fibers and throw the saw back at you). Learn to file your chain, or else buy several sharp chains and take them in to be professionally sharpened periodically.

Keep your chains sharp. Also learn about how your chains get dull. Chain wil cut wood for a long time and stay sharp. Add rocks. dirt, sand into the mix and chains get dull in a hurry (like, instantly). Just the rainsplash effect of dirt embedded in th bark of the lower part of the tree can dull your chain quickly.

Good luck
 
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