So was the red project saw.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42225&d=1166908378
Craftsman project saw - need help
- Thread starter joecool85
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So was the red project saw.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42225&d=1166908378
joecool85
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Thanks! That's what I thought. I'll pull the screw and hopefully the hole wasn't enlarged by the screw too much or it'll leak :-( If it does, I will replace the screw and drill a new hole next to it for the gas line. Then I will plug the primer line below the carb with a screw. This saw is so screwed up lol. I'll make it look pro however, I always do :rockn:
Joe , SEAL-ALL adhesive/sealant is good for fixing gas leaks . It's only $2 for a 2 ounce tube . http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm
joecool85
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Cool! If I end up with any leaks I may check that out.
I have used that stuff on other applications and it worked great. Never tried it on plastics though, only metal. Let us know on plastics.
Can be bought at Wal-mart, NAPA, etc.
Kevin , I used SEAL-ALL to repair my old FS80AVR trimmer plastic gas tank and plastic gas cap about 2.5 years ago .
joecool85
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Good to hear! I can't wait to get my gas line/fuel filter/air filter in so I can try this saw out. As soon as I get it together it's getting the muffler modded and tweak my carb. Then I want to test it out for at least an hour of cutting. At that point if it still runs well I will purchase a new clutch drum/sprocket, and a chainbrake assembly for it. Also I will probably know at that point if I want to buy the primer and lines to put it back to a primer system. Since it seems to start so well without the primer though, I probably won't bother.
**edit**
Forgot to mention that before I do any wood cutting I need to dress my bar (even the rails, then debur it) and sharpen the chain. I'm psyched, this is the first saw that I've owned
**edit again**
I may hold off on the muffler mod at least for a bit, we'll see how it cuts stock first I guess.
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Good to hear! I can't wait to get my gas line/fuel filter/air filter in so I can try this saw out. As soon as I get it together it's getting the muffler modded and tweak my carb. Then I want to test it out for at least an hour of cutting. At that point if it still runs well I will purchase a new clutch drum/sprocket, and a chainbrake assembly for it. Also I will probably know at that point if I want to buy the primer and lines to put it back to a primer system. Since it seems to start so well without the primer though, I probably won't bother.
**edit**
Forgot to mention that before I do any wood cutting I need to dress my bar (even the rails, then debur it) and sharpen the chain. I'm psyched, this is the first saw that I've owned
**edit again**
I may hold off on the muffler mod at least for a bit, we'll see how it cuts stock first I guess.
Maybe it will cut like this one . http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=714040&postcount=117
Here is a video of the 36cc poulan project saw that I put together out of 2 junked saws cutting 11" poplar with safety chain 3/8LP semi chisel. It by no means is fast 
but gets the job done. It would out cut my stihl 011 41cc saw by a pretty big margin in the same wood. So the stihl got sold. I was willing to give the little poulan away to a family cousin, but he never showed to get it last winter. So I used it around the house for small jobs now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8iOIffiOe4
but gets the job done. It would out cut my stihl 011 41cc saw by a pretty big margin in the same wood. So the stihl got sold. I was willing to give the little poulan away to a family cousin, but he never showed to get it last winter. So I used it around the house for small jobs now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8iOIffiOe4
joecool85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is a video of the 36cc poulan project saw that I put together out of 2 junked saws cutting 11" poplar with safety chain 3/8LP semi chisel. It by no means is fast
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8iOIffiOe4
Muffler modded or no? I'm planning on drilling out the baffle from it's current 5/32" holes to 3/16" and then opening up the two ports on the back. I've done the math and it should increase overall flow by 2x or so. I'm not going too crazy on the muffler mod since I want it to be reliable, and also not super duper loud.
No baffle in mine and opened both rear vents with a flat screw driver. Didnt drill any holes in this one in the front, like I did my other poulans in the past, I thought it was going to someone at the time.
joecool85
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Progress! I evened out the rails on the bar (first with the bench grinder, then fine tuning and smoothing with a flat file), sharpened the chain and threw it onto my Dad's 2375 and it ripped! Cuts faster than ever, part of that is due to it not being a safety chain though. A couple questions though, how important is it that the groove is a certain width? The gap is a little wide right now allowing the tangs to shimmy left/right a tick. I compared it with a good bar and it seems it is probably 20-30% wider than a stock groove.
Also, how would I go about replacing the safety interlock on my chainsaw? It's busted so that the trigger always works, the safety part never springs back up is why. I'd assume it's a worn out/broken spring, but I can't even figure out how to open up the handle. Any ideas?
Also, how would I go about replacing the safety interlock on my chainsaw? It's busted so that the trigger always works, the safety part never springs back up is why. I'd assume it's a worn out/broken spring, but I can't even figure out how to open up the handle. Any ideas?
Joe , check your bar with a feeler gauge to determine wear or flared rails . As far as splitting the handle , it is not necessary . The trigger lockout and trigger have pivot pins that can be removed for repair . (see items 2 and 9 in the IPL)
joecool85
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Aha! I've seen those pins and I didn't know they came out lol. I'm not going to fix it just yet, but I may do it when/if I get the chainbrake. Just depends on how well the saw runs once the fuel line comes in. I want to go through at least one tank of gas before I decide it's worth the $25-30 for the chainbrake.
I don't have a feeler gauge, but if I get one, what is the distance suppose to be in the groove? How would I know if the rails were flared? And also, wouldn't you check wear of the rails by how deep the groove is not the distance between the two rails?
**edit**
Also, in looking at the IPL I noticed there is no spring or anything for the safety interlock, is it just plastic bending that gives it the springing action?
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joecool85
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I hadn't thought about this, but is it possible my saw requires 0.050" gauge chain and someone put on 0.043" ? It's obvious it isn't the stock chain because it isn't a safety chain. How do I know what gauge chain it is suppose to take?
**edit**
Nevermind, that bar is marked "14 91" and the chain is a 91, apparently 91 is 0.050" and it has the right chain gauge on it. It does have some wiggled in it when tight though. It's possible to close the gap on a bar right?
**edit**
Nevermind, that bar is marked "14 91" and the chain is a 91, apparently 91 is 0.050" and it has the right chain gauge on it. It does have some wiggled in it when tight though. It's possible to close the gap on a bar right?
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joecool85
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I hadn't ordered a chainbrake with my gas lines and stuff because the one listed for the 2050 is $24, well I found out the only difference between it, the one for the 2375 and the one for the PP220 are color. The 2050 is green and costs $24, the 2375 is purple and cost $15 and the PP220 is gold and costs $8.25 !!
If I had known that I would have tossed it in my order to begin with lol. You live you learn I guess. I can't find a way to get a bar for less than $20 though, even on eBay. So I'm hoping I can work with mine, or maybe someone has a 14" bar they'd be willing to part ways with for free/cheap? My chain is in good condition (amazingly) now that I sharpened it.
If I had known that I would have tossed it in my order to begin with lol. You live you learn I guess. I can't find a way to get a bar for less than $20 though, even on eBay. So I'm hoping I can work with mine, or maybe someone has a 14" bar they'd be willing to part ways with for free/cheap? My chain is in good condition (amazingly) now that I sharpened it.
Joe , you could take the chain off of the bar and put a straight edge across the bar to see if the rails are flared . Your bar wears on both the top of the rail and the inside . I believe that the spring on the carb returns the throttle trigger and there is a plastic interlock on the lockout that has broken on your saw .
Yes , it's possible .
joecool85
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The throttle returns fine, it's just that it can always be depressed regardless of the safety being pushed down (on the top) or not. Looks like I'll be replacing both the chain and bar due to not knowing if it is safe, it's worn quite a bit anyway.
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