Crane removals....

[oldirty]

Here is a link to some spec's for a 40 kn biner. It's an auto locker but take a look at the ratings and especially in the WARNING box.

It loses 30 kn when side loaded and 28kn if the gate is open.

And they show in the warning box it being loaded with side pressure from a rock. That is pretty close to how I imagine it on the load line of a crane ball.

'Biners are really pretty fragile if not taken care of and loaded correctly.

seriously though, i am thinking the shackle and FS look best. thanks ghillie for the info

 

[marquis#1]

ur better off with the 50kn biner

 

[Nailsbeats]

Shackle w/safety wire and Friction Saver is how I'm gonna roll if I get that silo job. Still waiting.

Double biners on the FS for the quick detach too.

 

[Ghillie]

Shackle w/safety wire and Friction Saver is how I'm gonna roll if I get that silo job. Still waiting.

Double biners on the FS for the quick detach too.

That's the way to roll.....

 

[Ghillie]

"back to the lab!" yell's the mad scientist, dr strangeghillie.

ROFLMFAO!!!!!

Thanks OD, that made my day!!!

 

[Ghillie]

That's all I use. Something I either heard or read about aluminum biners on steel D rings being bad. I could be off on this though. Anyway, the Linemen's supply around the corner only carries one steel biner. My wallet hurts.

I know aluminum biners on steel sheaves of pulleys are bad.

I try to stay with steel on steel but what about the attachment points on your harness?

I would think that a round steel surface would do negligable damage to an aluminum biner.

 

[Blakesmaster]

I know aluminum biners on steel sheaves of pulleys are bad.

I try to stay with steel on steel but what about the attachment points on your harness?

I would think that a round steel surface would do negligable damage to an aluminum biner.

It never really made too much sense to me either and I feel like a dope for not looking further into it but I figured erring on the side of safety to be a good idea.

 

[Ghillie]

gonna be devil's advocate here on this ghillie... even if its a steel twist locking biner rated at 72kn's?

To be honest, I have used a steel screw lock 50 kn 'biner.

I don't like doing it though. I also pay close attention to how the gates close on all my 'biners.

I have a few aluminum ones that I've retired because the gate was rubbing on the pin hook when you closed it. After closer inspection, I saw a "dent" in the screw lock where it had been side loaded.

Things like that indicate the spine has been tweeked and not in a good way.

 

[Ghillie]

It never really made too much sense to me either and I feel like a dope for not looking further into it but I figured erring on the side of safety to be a good idea.

HHHMMMMMMMmm...... BACK TO THE LAB!!! muahhahahahahah!!!!

Seriously though, that is a question I have thought about before also but put it low on the list of things to look into.

But it still is on the list.

+1 on erring on the safe side!

 

[Blakesmaster]

HHHMMMMMMMmm...... BACK TO THE LAB!!! muahhahahahahah!!!!

Seriously though, that is a question I have thought about before also but put it low on the list of things to look into.

But it still is on the list.

+1 on erring on the safe side!

Waiting for the link, Mr. Scientist!

 

[Nailsbeats]

I watch my aluminum biners hard and try not to run them consistently on steel. I like steel on steel. I am a fab man and when steel and aluminum collide steel always wins. The aluminum is hardened though to take some abrasion.

 

[Ghillie]

Waiting for the link, Mr. Scientist!

I wouldn't wait up too long...

I just did a couple of quick searches through my stuff and on the net and came up with nothing.

I'll keep looking but not tonight.

(and just scientist is fine with me... MR. Scientist was my dad!! LOL)

 

[Ghillie]

I watch my aluminum biners hard and try not to run them consistently on steel. I like steel on steel. I am a fab man and when steel and aluminum collide steel always wins. The aluminum is hardened though to take some abrasion.

That brings up another point. When the anodizing gets chipped or worn through, it leaves a sharp edge that wears on ropes.

I take them out of rotation in cases like that.

 

[Blakesmaster]

I wouldn't wait up too long...

I just did a couple of quick searches through my stuff and on the net and came up with nothing.

I'll keep looking but not tonight.

(and just scientist is fine with me... MR. Scientist was my dad!! LOL)

Gotcha. It's about that time for me as well. Girl's lookin' a bit antsy on the other side of the room.

 

[custom8726]

Whats a matter with just tying into the ball? I mean if you check for abrasions on the hook, have a mechanically sound clip on the hook and keep a concious mind on the angle of your climbing line VS the clip position its pretty darn safe IMHO.. I know I will get flamed for this opinion and I am not saying the alternative methods are bad but I do not think they are any safer. Once your straps are set do you guys let the crane tension the straps before you come down to make your cut? Once the straps have tension on them and your climbing line is behind the straps on the hook it really does not matter what angle your climbing line is at or what direction the hook is facing your climbing line cant come past the straps. How many potential abrasions does your climbing strap have by tying in above the ball? Not to mention if you do not wire the clevis shut you risk the chance of the shackle coming on- screwed. If I am trusting that hook to lift 3k-10k over my head I think I can trust it to hold my 175lbs. I guess if I devised a system that I felt was safer to tye in above the ball then the crane hook and gave it some time to get comfortable with, I would convert for ANSI/OSHA sakes but for know I am a little bias't to what has worked for me for the last 11 years.

 

[limbwalker54]

In regard to the aluminum vs. steel.... Aluminum will react in a negative way with steel due to the composition...I.E. they react by corroding each other. Since the reaction can occur at a microscopic level, the aluminum can deteriorate and weaken. A catastrophic failure could occur. While this is not likely for the amount of time the gear stays together on a job, time and time again when they touch, the reaction can keep occurring......

However....

If someone on here can give me an occassion when this has truly caused a problem and it was linked to aluminum/steel corrosion, that would be great.


In regard to tying in above the ball: I never have liked the idea of being on the "business" end of the crane, IE The Hook. I have tied in above the ball just how Gerstenberger described in TCIA magazine for every crane job. I feel you have more mobility and you are above the plane that the straps or cables are attached with your tie in point. Somehow I feel that tying in on the hook could be REALLY bad business if something should go wrong. I want to be able to get out of dodge quickly if something moves the wrong way, and getting my climbing line caught in a strap on a hook in that situation could prove detrimental to my health........

 

[custom8726]

In regard to the aluminum vs. steel.... Aluminum will react in a negative way with steel due to the composition...I.E. they react by corroding each other. Since the reaction can occur at a microscopic level, the aluminum can deteriorate and weaken. A catastrophic failure could occur. While this is not likely for the amount of time the gear stays together on a job, time and time again when they touch, the reaction can keep occurring......

However....

If someone on here can give me an occassion when this has truly caused a problem and it was linked to aluminum/steel corrosion, that would be great.


In regard to tying in above the ball: I never have liked the idea of being on the "business" end of the crane, IE The Hook. I have tied in above the ball just how Gerstenberger described in TCIA magazine for every crane job. I feel you have more mobility and you are above the plane that the straps or cables are attached with your tie in point. Somehow I feel that tying in on the hook could be REALLY bad business if something should go wrong. I want to be able to get out of dodge quickly if something moves the wrong way, and getting my climbing line caught in a strap on a hook in that situation could prove detrimental to my health........

If you use a shackle above the ball to tie in and something happens below the ball what do you think is going to happen? The cable is strung through the ball and then clamped back together, If the cable came out, The ball, hook, and the clevis you are tied into would all come off together. I don't really understand the logic regarding being able to move faster being tied in above. What are you moving fast from? I am never tied into the ball at the time a pick is being made so what would I be moving away from? I always let the crane winch up as I stay put near the straps making sure they are cinching up properly before I come down to make my cut and never have a problem with my line getting tangled or caught in the straps. As long as the straps are positioned properly in front of the climbing line you do not get pinched.

 

[marquis#1]

there is 2 thing. u need to be on the load line above the ball. and u need a locking shackel. and thats that . that is the safest way

 

[custom8726]

there is 2 thing. u need to be on the load line above the ball. and u need a locking shackel. and thats that . that is the safest way

Says who? Not many crane manufacturers will recomend any weight or persons to be tied in there.

 

[Moestavrn]

Almost NO crane manufacturers will even be ok with doing tree work with a crane do to Shock loading....Its a judgement and comfartability call...