CS Milling 101, Hints tips and tricks

[BobL]

Railomatic's good stuff!

I don't know what happened to Railomatic who was one of the most innovative CS mill designers to post on AS. He posted a lot of photos of his mills back in 2007/8 mainly linked to a photobucket account which has also disappeared but some of his posts did include photos posted direct to AS.

I thought I would repost some of his posts here including his photos here because they really deserve to be seen, especially by newbies and folks looking for interesting CS mill designs and you may also see where I got several ideas for my mills from. You will also see the outstanding quality of finish that he was able to fabricate.

Here is how I have done mine an all aluiminum model and a steel model in the orange, all have rollersfitted which makes starting and finishing easier and the going three times easier, all have 325 nose conversions for a much faster cut through the log. After the top handles have been turned to the required depth an elastic bungee is located between the two handles to stop things from moving.

More in the next post

 

[BobL]

Railomatic's good stuff II

More of Rail's good stuff.

And more of the same of the same, I have never had anything vibrate loose in the ten or so years I have been making my own CSM's, they are some of the best CSM's I have ever made, cost is nothing to me, quality and ease of use is paramount, I can make myself a CSM cheaper than it is to buy an Alaskan.

 

[BobL]

Railomatic's good stuff III

And more good ideas.

Check out this bar/saw strengthening mount!

I hope you find this useful.
Cheers

 

[davidbrac]

Great thread

I would add moving logs doesn't always need mechanic aids, you can move heavy loads by putting rollers under then. I always carry 4 3 inch diam wooden rollers (old fence posts)

Other point l would raise is beware of people out walking their dogs when ground milling, you can barrier again humans but their pets are harder to block out. Thats the main reason l moved from a logosol big mill to a M7

 

[BobL]

Great thread

I would add moving logs doesn't always need mechanic aids, you can move heavy loads by putting rollers under then. I always carry 4 3 inch diam wooden rollers (old fence posts)

Cheers david.

I assume you mean powered mechanical aids, otherwise I see rollers as just another mechanical aid. I agree rollers are handy when working on a firm flat surfaces and the logs are regularly shaped, unfortunately not all that common in the Aussie bush. I do use rollers (1" wooden broom handles) to slide big slabs onto piles of other slabs or into my van.

 

[Mekanizm]

In Rails pictures, what are the plastic knob/wheel looking things on the four corners of several of his builds for?

It looks like they would keep the ladder cradled but they are on the wrong side.

 

[BobL]

In Rails pictures, what are the plastic knob/wheel looking things on the four corners of several of his builds for?

It looks like they would keep the ladder cradled but they are on the wrong side.

I'm not really sure.
I know he likes machining plastic knobs - they might be handles - like in this picture, he seems to be hanging onto a corner.

 

[diesel&coffee]

Bob G day there

On your 076 - do/can u cut 50+ hardwood with it?? are do u go with a 880??

 

[bluesportster02]

great thread. subscribing

 

[dcchiro]

How about edging?

This thread has been very helpful to get me started, but I was hoping you guys could post some edging pics, and setups! Please, and Thank you. What are the things to consider about edging. I am most interested in big timbers not boards that is why I ask. I would like to make 12"x12" and/or bigger beams. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

 

[mtngun]

This thread has been very helpful to get me started, but I was hoping you guys could post some edging pics, and setups! Please, and Thank you. What are the things to consider about edging. I am most interested in big timbers not boards that is why I ask. I would like to make 12"x12" and/or bigger beams. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

Not sure what you mean by edging timbers, but I like to make them by doing the 1st pass with an Alaskan and the next 3 passes with a mini-mill.

Try to make your beams either heart centered or else free of heart.

 

[smokinj]

Thanks bob l awesome stuff.

 

[dcchiro]

Edging?

Not sure what you mean by edging timbers, but I like to make them by doing the 1st pass with an Alaskan and the next 3 passes with a mini-mill.

Try to make your beams either heart centered or else free of heart.

Sorry, I did mean cutting the sides of the log after making your first cut with and Alaskan/or the like.

I have seen other threads were people were not happy with the mini-mill, and made there own version.

Have you been happy with the mini-mill. Does it do as good a job as the first cut with the Alaskan?

 

[mtngun]

Have you been happy with the mini-mill. Does it do as good a job as the first cut with the Alaskan?

No, the mini-mill is not as accurate as an Alaskan, but that is not the point. It's hard to cut 90 degree corners with an Alaskan, but that's easy for a mini-mill.

The weakness of a mini-mill is that it has a narrow base. That makes it unstable and tippy. You can still get good results, but you have to concentrate on holding the mill firmly against the guide board, and not letting it tip.

I usually get 1/4" accuracy.

The beams are not as good as those made on a carriage type mill, but they are certainly good enough for timber framing, especially bearing in mind that in the old days they hewed beams with an axe.

 

[dcchiro]

No, the mini-mill is not as accurate as an Alaskan, but that is not the point. It's hard to cut 90 degree corners with an Alaskan, but that's easy for a mini-mill.

The weakness of a mini-mill is that it has a narrow base. That makes it unstable and tippy. You can still get good results, but you have to concentrate on holding the mill firmly against the guide board, and not letting it tip.

I usually get 1/4" accuracy.

The beams are not as good as those made on a carriage type mill, but they are certainly good enough for timber framing, especially bearing in mind that in the old days they hewed beams with an axe.

Thanks mtngun. That is helpful. One last question. You mentioned doing the first cut with the Alaskan, and the following three with the mini-mill. Do you find it easier/better to do it that way,or have you tried using the Alaskan to do the top and bottom cuts(with wedges) and follow up with the last two side cuts with the mini-mill?

I have yet to mill anything, but hope to start soon. I am just trying to learn from everyone before I make too many mistakes. I am sure some of this stuff is just personal preference, but those preferences are based on experience which I don't have. Your opinion/experience is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[mtngun]

have you tried using the Alaskan to do the top and bottom cuts(with wedges) and follow up with the last two side cuts with the mini-mill?

The problem with that is you have to stop to adjust the height of the Alaskan.

But, if you have a bunch of the same size timbers to mill all at once, you can save setup time by doing all the slabbing cuts at once, then if you like, re-adjust the Alaskan for the bottom cut, and do all the bottom cuts at once.

Another advantage of the mini-mill, besides its affinity for 90 degree corners, is that there is not much to set up on those last 3 cuts.

 

[dcchiro]

The problem with that is you have to stop to adjust the height of the Alaskan.

But, if you have a bunch of the same size timbers to mill all at once, you can save setup time by doing all the slabbing cuts at once, then if you like, re-adjust the Alaskan for the bottom cut, and do all the bottom cuts at once.

Another advantage of the mini-mill, besides its affinity for 90 degree corners, is that there is not much to set up on those last 3 cuts.

Thanks again mtngun. That makes a lot of sense. I do have a bunch of same size timbers I plan on milling at once, but if I want to make them all heart cuts, then I guess that would be a lot more set up time with the Alaskan.

 

[burningwood]

Getting It Off The Ground

Guys, seems like there are a continual trickle of newbies posting their milling setups and it's great to see the addiction continues! Most of these folks seem to be milling small logs on their knees on the ground when there is no need for it. Yes I do occasionally mill (big ones) on the ground but I'm wondering whether a sticky on milling positions would help these folks, that way we wouldn't sound like broken records?

I just starting milling and wOOd like some ideas (pics) on getting logs off the ground so your not milling on your knees. Some of the equipment I have are a 3000 pound warn winch, Tuf-Tug 2500 pound hoist puller with some chains and other winching equipment, snatch blocks,rigging straps and dshackles.

bw

 

[dcchiro]

I just starting milling and wOOd like some ideas (pics) on getting logs off the ground so your not milling on your knees. Some of the equipment I have are a 3000 pound warn winch, Tuf-Tug 2500 pound hoist puller with some chains and other winching equipment, snatch blocks,rigging straps and dshackles.

bw

I would try this: http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/55860.htm#post797166

It is cheap fast and good, usually you have to pick 2 of the 3. Good luck!

 

[burningwood]

Log Lift

I would try this: http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/55860.htm#post797166

It is cheap fast and good, usually you have to pick 2 of the 3. Good luck!

Thanks DC, looks like I should have something (log lift) in a couple of weeks.

bw