CS Milling 101, Hints tips and tricks

[BobL]

Interesting CS Milling PDF

http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/pdfs/international_programme/ChainsawMillingManual.pdf

 

[kiwiatgundy]

question for you Bob

http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/pdfs/international_programme/ChainsawMillingManual.pdf

Some interesting stuff in there bob.
Question for you, I am haveing a bugger of a time setting my rails for the first cut, especially on some of the logs 6 meters in length. At that span, i am getting a bow in the middle of the rails so I made up some plates with set screws ets that I put on the top of the log, both ends and the middle. Works well but tells blimmin ages to set up and get parrell etc. Just wondered what you did? Also, would you have a pic of your aux oiler. Wondered what sort of hose you run to the bar and how you keep the damn thing in the right poszy.
Cheers mate
Brian

 

[mtngun]

Some interesting stuff in there bob.
Question for you, I am haveing a bugger of a time setting my rails for the first cut, especially on some of the logs 6 meters in length. At that span, i am getting a bow in the middle of the rails so I made up some plates with set screws ets that I put on the top of the log, both ends and the middle. Works well but tells blimmin ages to set up and get parrell etc. Just wondered what you did? Also, would you have a pic of your aux oiler. Wondered what sort of hose you run to the bar and how you keep the damn thing in the right poszy.
Cheers mate
Brian

I support the middle of the span with scrap pieces of wood wedged between the log and the rails. There is more than one way to do it, but it definitely needs support of some type.

Position of the dripper is not critical, as long as it falls somewhere on the bar nose. The oil will eventually find its way to the edge of the bar -- where else can it go ? Baling wire or a zip tie work as well as anything to hold the oil hose.

 

[timmcat]

Man there is alot of good info here. I started with an alaskan staight up, but hated the pain it was to get the rails set the first time. Then I built a suspended carriage, two pieces of box tubing 16' long welded 1' apart and supported at the corners with 1" threaded rod, 8 tpi so it was easier to cut quartrs in measurement. That was a pain because of the squaring mess. I finally ended up with a custom carriage and rail set up like a circular mill. Much less stress on the operator (me) and squaring big cants is as easy as rotating the log with a peavey. Only downside is the inability to go larger than 28" but I still have the original granberg for those occasions. Will get some pics eventually.

 

[splitpost]

learning:hmm3grin2orange:

what exactly are you contributing?...................................SPAM

 

[splitpost]

bloody spammers

 

[BobL]

How not to do it.

I need to get back to milling but this is the closest I could get today. The occasion was the Perth Wood show where all manner of woody stuff is on show and being demoed.

Every year for as long as I can remember Westford Chainsaw mills have had a display demo at the show and the last time I went to the show 5 years ago I remember watching the Westford CS millers sweating, gruntin and grovelling on hard tarmac in piles of sawdust. Westford is a small local company who make solid Granberg style alaskan and other CS mills.
I was hoping that this time 5 years on they would have learned something, but apparently not

Worse still have a look at how far away his inboard mill clamp is from his powerhead.

This means
a) His powerhead is hanging out in the breeze far more than it needs be - probably so he can adjust his 3120 chain without removing it from the mill but it means arms are spread wider than necessary
and
b) The 6" gap is a prime place where he could slip his knee into - lucky he is wearing chaps.

 

[mortenh]

Aluminum ladder and slide-on brackets makes first cut much easier

I have been milling (in Denmark and Sweden) using the Alaskan Mill MKIII for a few years. Previously, I have been using a Mini Mill (with a 4" rail) for making the first cut, as I thought it was far too much work mounting and aligning slabbing rails to the log before making the first cut using the MKIII. Mostly, because the slabbing rails not only had to be aligned (level) at both ends, but also aligned at an equal distance from the centre of the log.

Recently, I had an idea using a standard aluminum ladder (with "H" profile rails) and mounting it using a specially designed bracket to the log ends. I quickly made up the brackets and it has made life a lot easier (see pictures below).

The advantages of using this setup are:

• Very quick to mount (four short screws)
• No problem with twisting of the rail (ladder is inherently very stiff)
• Easy to align with center of the log
• No risk of cutting into screws (this is a problem when mounting using screws through rungs)
• Light weight (easier to move to the milling site)
• Low cost (brackets can be made for a few dollars)

The only disadvantage that I have found, is that you are limited by the length of the ladder. But 90%+ of my milling is 9 ft or less anyway so that is not too much of a problem.

View attachment 247473

View attachment 247474

The brackets need to be a few inches wide, to allow it to be lifted at one end to align with the center of the log. If you need the initial cut to only remove a narrow slice, simply raise both brackets by a couple of inches.

I tend to cut smaller logs down the middle, before slabbing each half anyway, to get the largest possible surface for the mill to rest on.

I thought I would share this with my fellow millers, and I welcome any feedback that you may have.


Morten Hattesen
omkap.dk Arborist Services

 

[BobL]

Recently, I had an idea using a standard aluminum ladder (with "H" profile rails) and mounting it using a specially designed bracket to the log ends. I quickly made up the brackets and it has made life a lot easier (see pictures below).

Thanks for posting the pics of your setup.

Lots of people here are already using ladders with similar end brackets.
eg Have a look here.

One disadvantage of ladders is their fixed width so when milling wide logs with long bars the mill is not as stable as it could be.

Length is not a problem as some ladders can easily be joined together (see pics in above link).

You also say that ladders will not twist but this depends on the quality of the ladder and the length. One of my friends has a 12 ft ladder that twists as much as a guide board. The important thing about any setup is to be able to measure and remove the twist. I use a digital angle finder to measure twist.

 

[PES+]

It depends how crafty you are.

I got this log off the ground.

With this.

Full thread here.

The jack lifts 7500 lbs and cost me US$30 and modifying it took a couple of hours. Admittedly It's not something I like carrying more than about 100 yards but otherwise it's well worth the effort.

LOL

You have every safety nut in NA freaking out with those pics.

I no longer post pics of my set ups because safety freaks still insist you need to run a chainbrake on a chainsaw mill.:jester:

 

[BobL]

LOL
You have every safety nut in NA freaking out with those pics.
I no longer post pics of my set ups because safety freaks still insist you need to run a chainbrake on a chainsaw mill.:jester:

That's interesting, that first photo has been downloaded 606 time on this forum and you are the first person to say that about it.
Most people that know me see me as a relatively safety conscious operator in terms of things like; PPE use, moving slabs an logs around, keep people away when milling etc.

I guess here in Oz we still have some common sense left - but given recent developments in OHS, maybe not for long

 

[mortenh]

You also say that ladders will not twist but this depends on the quality of the ladder and the length. One of my friends has a 12 ft ladder that twists as much as a guide board. The important thing about any setup is to be able to measure and remove the twist. I use a digital angle finder to measure twist.

I don't see the ladder twisting at all. When mounting it to the log ends, no forces are acting on the ladder (except for the weight of the ladder itself). Once the end brackets are mounted (two screws each), the ladder is fixed with no twisting. If the ladder is long/weak, it may deflect under the weight of the mill, but that can be avoided by pushing a wedge under one of the rungs/steps halfway down the log.

Anyway, I have found the bracket + ladder to be much quicker to mount and adjust than anything else I have tried before, and they can be made up for no money in less than an hour, and thought I'd pass on the tip.

View attachment 247938

View attachment 247939

View attachment 247940

View attachment 247941

 

[mad murdock]

Can't wait to get my Bailey's order! Getting set up to mill with picco ripping chain. From all studies and people I have questioned who have used it, I will be seeing about a 30% increase in feed speed, plus more lumber recovery/less sawdust! Will post after action report.

 

[tmacie]

Is there a thread somewhere on the pico ripping chain? What bar lengths is it good until?


Travis

 

[FlyMats]

Can't wait to get my Bailey's order! Getting set up to mill with picco ripping chain. From all studies and people I have questioned who have used it, I will be seeing about a 30% increase in feed speed, plus more lumber recovery/less sawdust! Will post after action report.

Hi there, could You provide us with some links about that chain? Thanks

 

[mortenh]

Hi there, could You provide us with some links about that chain? Thanks

3/8" Low Profile ripping chain branded WoodlandPRO (a rebranded Carlton chain): Bailey's - WoodlandPro 30LR Ripping Chainsaw Chain

 

[FlyMats]

3/8" Low Profile ripping chain branded WoodlandPRO (a rebranded Carlton chain): Bailey's - WoodlandPro 30LR Ripping Chainsaw Chain

Thanks! So this chain is 30% faster than the other ripping chains, like Carlton?

 

[mortenh]

Thanks! So this chain is 30% faster than the other ripping chains, like Carlton?

This IS a Carlton chain (rebranded "WoodlandPRO")

I doubt it will be anywhere near 30% faster than an equivalent 3/8" non-low-profile chain. Don't know who came up with the "30% faster" claim. But it will make a slightly narrower kerf, producing less sawdust, and may be a little faster.

I am frequently using a Stihl 3/8" LP Picco chain on a 25" hard-nose bar, and that setup works quite well. For larger bars, I use full 3/8" chain.

 

[FlyMats]

I see, thanks for Your reply! But Baileys recommend this chain in the link, low profile, from 12-16" bars, but You believe that up to 25" is good and have tested that for some time?

 

[FlyMats]

This IS a Carlton chain (rebranded "WoodlandPRO")

I doubt it will be anywhere near 30% faster than an equivalent 3/8" non-low-profile chain. Don't know who came up with the "30% faster" claim. But it will make a slightly narrower kerf, producing less sawdust, and may be a little faster.

I am frequently using a Stihl 3/8" LP Picco chain on a 25" hard-nose bar, and that setup works quite well. For larger bars, I use full 3/8" chain.

So You think that the 30LR is good at 25'' even Baileys says 12-16?

Thanks