CSM: 1 post or 2?

[820wards]

Well here she is. Haven't tried 'er yet -- first thing tomorrow, weather
permitting.

I'll tell ya though it took longer to drill through the nose/sprocket than
it did to make everything else.

I definitely need a bigger saw. When all is said and done I've got about
15" clearance on a 20" bar.

Tried to keep it light. Had some stainless square tubing from another project.
This stuff is a little on the light side 1/2"x1/2" .. little more than a 1/16" wall..
but, being stainless, its pretty tough. Especially considering my bar ain't
so long. Hope it stays together alright.

Next time (and there'll definitely be a next time!) I'm going to use "C" shaped
guides instead of square tubing. This thing is reasonably straight.. but I've
got some places it wants to bind a little (when adjusting up and down). I
can knuckle it into place but I'm afraid its putting a little bow in my bar.
Not much, but that flexing is going somewhere.

Outward facing "C"s with a bolt through them should give me a little more
breathing room in terms of squareness etc.

can't wait to try her out!

Thanks again for all your help..

oh! and it went together like a song.. tightened everything down and
then chain wouldn't budge! thought I pinched the sprocket or something
bad. turned out it was the chain brake! (long day).

Looks good and should work great. Let us know if you get much torsional flexing with out torsion tube.

jerry-

 

[outofstepper]

uhm.... "torsion bar"?

 

[820wards]

uhm.... "torsion bar"?

If you look at how the Gandberg mills are made there is a 1" torsion bar that is attached to each end of the frame. It is designed to reduce the ability of the frame to twist which might cause the bar to try rising or diving into the slab cut.

Here is a picture of my friends Gandber mill I installed a nose oilier one a couple of weeks ago. You can see the torsion bar.

jerry-