cutter types and burrs

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I've found that the 3/16" file doesn't fit very well in the Oregon .325 chains the first sharpening or two. I mostly use Stihl chains, and the 3/16" file slides right in the first time.
I just got finished sharpening a new Oregon .325" chain on my 026, and it was a real bear getting the teeth to accept the round file. I think it's because of the type grinder they use when making the chains, it cuts them at a different angle than a round file does. I think I'll go back to Stihl chain after this one wears out. The Oregon chain cut like a dull butterknife out of the box, but I think I fixed it to where it will cut wood now. ;)
 
First filling difficult on a new chain

The factory grind does leave an incomplete arc down at the root of the tooth that tries to push your file high on the first few strokes. It seems very hard too, until you break through and it damages the file. What I do now is take an old file with real heavy down pressure and take that material out without even touching the top plate. Do this freehand then pick up your good file and go to it. Some chains seem worse than others for this.

Frank
 
Thanks Che', but it was you that created the monster! I learned alot from Doug about my pictures and he put me on to adobe photo shop which is really good. From what I have learned from Doug it is better to underexpose, than brighten later with Adobe.
Also try using a flash and it might highlight the trouble areas.
Hope this helps. My pictures are still a bit out of focus at times so I have a long way to go. Picture taking occupies about 10% of my time in the woods. Good thing I am self employed, or I would be sure to get fired.
John
 
Originally posted by Gypo Logger
Darn it, I made a mistake, the previous picture was to small.
Try this one, but you may have to schroll L-R.
John

John,
Not to be critical but that top plate angle looks more like 28 degrees than 30 degrees.:p

Thanks for the close up. You know my eyes aren't what they used to be.
 
I've always used one of those guides that clips onto the file itself. The angle guide lines are a help, but the best thing is it gets the file height right, which (i'd imagine) is the hardest thing to get when filing with no guide. I've tried filing without a guide, and can get the same results as with the guide, but it takes me a lot longer. I'm still not sure what the advantage is of filing without a guide. Can anyone enlighten me?:confused:
 
Filing without guide

I think probably what we are talking about here Acer is the clamp on assembly that adjusts for all the angles, hook and a stop for making all the teeth uniform length. It does an excellent job but is too time consuming for on the fly touchup. You are talking about the plate that clamps onto the file and basically takes all the eyeballing out of controlling file height - hook angle. This doesn't slow you down at all and is nothing bulky to carry. I sure don't consider it a training device or something to hide behind your leg if someone comes along when you are filing your saw. When we start getting north of 50 years of age we start to need more light and reading glasses which we often dont have in the bush. I think the quick clip on guides are dandy.

Frank
 
Re: Filing without guide

Originally posted by Crofter
When we start getting north of 50 years of age we start to need more light and reading glasses which we often dont have in the bush.

Frank

You're doing well then Frank. That started happening to me about 5 years ago, and I turned 40 last month!!
 
Originally posted by rbtree
jokers,

che said she was using a 5/32 file....which seems too small for a new chain.

Most guys rec 3/16, which I find too large. I have some hard to find 11/32 which seems just right.

I've always used 3/16, and am happy with that, tho I've heard some people say 13/64 is the ideal size...even if it makes a difference, so what? For every hour I cut, I seem to spend 3 hours dragging brash around. I'd probably waste more time looking for 13/64 files than I'd save in cutting time. As the western world becomes less and less practical, even getting a smooth flat file for my depth gauges is a major chore these days!!
 
Originally posted by rbtree
Che said she was using a 5/32 file....which seems too small for a new chain.

Most guys rec 3/16, which I find too large. I have some hard to find 11/32 which seems just right.

I think the file your talking about is a 11/64.

11/32 is almost twice the size of a 3/16.:)
 
Well, it was interesting to say the least. I can't say I'm doing everything right....it would help if I could see better...I've got some silly magnifiers (3x,5x,10x harbor freight, $3) that helped though. Some cutters look ok. Some don't. I've been trying to squeeze my filing into tiny time chunks all weekend, wedged between farm books and family obligations....today I had a couple hours ALONE and was able to at least complete the chain. I had ten minutes left to run out and try it...'puppy' (all 65 pounds of him) hasn't figured out that running chainsaws are not something to 'investigate'...so that was stopped almost before it began. Got a few chips going though.

rbtree said, <i>"I find it hard to tip the file down 10 degrees with the .325 without cutting into thee tie straps too much."</i> I found myself doing the same thing....discovered of course, after the fact. Does this harm the chain? Weakened in any way?

Way too much 'Christmas music pageant' and a bit too much wine to try anymore tonight. I still don't have a picture of the cutters that will show what I want.....so I'll show a picture of the bad pup instead.

I'll keep on trying. Thanks! Che
 

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