cutting stumps flush

[PTS]

It seems as if there is nothing worse than having to cut a stump off at ground level so that the owners of the tree can mow over it instead of having it ground. Not only is the task hard on the chain as you are bound to hit dirt but when the tree base is 3-4 ft getting the two cuts to line up is near impossible. For one reason or another I feel like the bar gets pinched in the tree trunk and I seem to fight it. I am sure it is becase I am fighting the motor to ground. We check the bars on all saw often so I know that it isn't from burrs. Anyone got a good way of tackling this?

 

[MasterBlaster]

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

That's a sales issue. I state "will remove to a low stump" and expalin that that is as low as I can get without dulling the saw chain. If we cannot get it low enough that they can mow, then a grind is recomended.

"Well sir, if i have a 3 man crew out here diging the roots down so I can cut the flair out, it may take an extra hour, with that and cutting the but chunks down. That's $195, having the stumper come in would be only $160 since we can back the big towbehind right onto it."

 

[PTS]

I am always trying to please, but I think your right....Pay up!

And Masterblaster, we do use wedges, often but I think my biggest problem starts with how low I am cutting.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Then yur probably too low. People expect ya to work miracles flushing a stump off, sometimes.

 

[PTS]

aint that the truth.... I posted earlier about catchy sayings, maybe I should put Miracle maker.

 

[geofore]

Grind it!

Hey, Mr. Treeman how's about you waste a chain or two taking that stump down so I can save myself the price of a grind? Don't waste your saws/chains trying to get the stump close enough to the ground to mow over that's what they make stump grinders for. Small stumps are easy but big ones have roots that are too high also and they need to be ground. It amazes me that chances are the homeowner has a weedwacker but he really wants the stump gone because it looks better. He's scared off by the price of the stump grind and too lazy to walk over there with his weedwacker before he mows. But he doesn't have a problem asking you to waste a good chain.

 

[tnttreeman]

Echoing everyone else- Will cut stump low as part of the removal. Lower? Stump grind.

 

[Mike Barcaskey]

my bid form states
"Stump cut flat above the root flair"

I'll charge $150 to make a cut below the flair on a big stump. the only clutch I ever burnt up was on a 52" silver maple that a cranky old lady talked me into cutting lower. one of those "learn a lesson on every job"

if the root flair starts 2 feet high, so be it

 

[P_woozel]

I say to hell with low stumps, keep em legal. 12" on the high side, if they want the stump lower there are optios of course, stump grinding, or flush cutting, either of which means added charge. The guys I work with now make it policy to flush stumps, odd practice since not everyone who carries out this task can recognize a dull chain let alone sharpen one.

 

[Lumberjack]

One thing to consider is the dirt that is at that level in the stump. It will FUBAR your chains in a hurry also. Old metal always seems to be there in some ammount. You might have to sharpen your saw in mid cut to get it to cut right.

 

[Koa Man]

I tell my customers that cut to ground level means height will be 10-15% of stump diameter. That means a 10" stump can be cut to 1-1.5" high, but a 3 ft. stump will be cut to 3.6-5.4" high. Most high root flares can be cut off pretty easily. Other than than, stump grind it. In addition to my regular stumper, I have an Alpine Magnum, which I am using more than I expected. It can get to just about any stump.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Another way I've heard it done is to say that you cannot leave a short stump in the lawn due to trip/fall liability. Then add a clause to the agreement where the client is responcible for the stump.

I find that once you get to the basal flair on large trees, you often get dirt inclusions that dull the saw fast.

 

[Koa Man]

Another way I've heard it done is to say that you cannot leave a short stump in the lawn due to trip/fall liability. Then add a clause to the agreement where the client is responcible for the stump.

I have found that I can almost always sell a stump job if the stump is in the middle of the lawn for that very reason.

 

[Stumper]

In the old days before I had a stump grinder I flush cut a lot of stumps. I even cut them below ground level for additional $.-An awful task. When I got a stumper then Butch's famous ALAP(as low as possible) went out the window. I promise ALAC-(As Low As Convenient) ALAC usually works out to Koa's 10% of diameter. I really don't get much whining about cutting lower-My customers are always given the option of grinding so they know what their options are up front.

 

[jamie]

cuts

all our felling cuts are normally taken at 6" above the ground, then maybe a stump cut to a few inches, above the dirt / contamination line.

jamie

 

[lawmart]

all my estimates say flush to grade then they ask what that means it is usually 2"-3" above grade most of the time its no problem, and I allways give them aseperate stump price " grind stump below grade 150.00".
I have declamers on bottom of estimates that say stumps is 8" below grade and grindings are left on site.

Lawmart

play safe

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

been there done that !! but not anymore ,though i will grind the stump out for extra £££s

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

if i were you Lawmart i would re-write / re-phrase your estimates...how can the wording 'flush to grade ' mean '2''-3'' above grade' ??

 

[Burnham]

if i were you Lawmart i would re-write / re-phrase your estimates...how can the wording 'flush to grade ' mean '2''-3'' above grade' ??

My thoughts exactly...