Cutting trees low to the ground.

[iamryan]

I guess this will be my first post / introduction at the same time. I've been a lurker here for about two years now.

I'm going to be doing a minor firewood operation through the winter and I've got a few people having me thin out some trees on rural land. Free firewood. etc etc.

Anyhow my question pertains to this woman that wants her trees cut low to the ground when they're felled. She said her husband cut them to about 6-7 inches and her mother and father were "not to happy about it being that high".

Am I missing something? That's pretty low isnt it? If not. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions about how I should go about cutting them lower? Seems to me like she needs a stump grinder. This is 40-50 trees I'm going after here and it seems like it is a bit impossible.

Thanks in advance. I look forward to being a frequent member here

Ryan

 

[forestryworks]

go as low as you can without hitting dirt.

on jobs like that i do the falling first and then go back and ALAP the stumps.

 

[toddstreeservic]

don't use a brand new chain.

 

[iamryan]

Alright. Thanks for the fast response.

Last time I did this a few years ago, I guess the people weren't so picky.

 

[iamryan]

don't use a brand new chain.

Hah. No kidding.

 

[dingeryote]

:agree2:

Drop 'em like you normally would.

Buzz the stumps down to 3-4" when you're done, and use that really ugly chain ya don't like anyway..on the saw ya don't like much.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[iamryan]

Well unfortunately I only have one saw but I do have a newer chain that I have always kept as a spare. I guess I'll throw the new one on for the main cutting then throw the other one on when I go back on em.

I really hate the idea of having to cut twice but its free wood.

 

[Taxmantoo]

If it's firewood, you could cut it 1 or two lengths too high, then cut the stub off later. If the stem is knee high or hip high it shouldn't be unsafe to get on your knees and cut it as low as possible without sticking your bar in the dirt.

 

[lego1970]

When I did pipeline clearing, they wanted it low enough so you could run a standard lawn mower over it. It's a pain at first but with a little prep work it can be done without chewing up too many chains. What I used to do after dropping the wood was spend an hour with a shovel or rake and dig a bit around the stumps. It's a pain in the @ss and time consuming but so much quicker then re-sharpening chains or wearing out your saw because your too stubborn to give up cutting even though the saw is putting out talc powder and just burning the wood instead of cutting. Just take your time and rake out the dirt around the stumps before you cut. Good luck.

 

[Biker Dude]

I always cut 1 or 2 lengths high and then cut the stump off. If you are going to have a dedicated chain for just the stump cut I would suggest a semi-chisel chain. They hold their edge longer in dirty wood than a full chisel does.

 

[clearance]

My saws have wrap handles, I love it when people say "can't you cut it lower?" I show them why I can't, saves on chain.

 

[oscar4883]

I do some excavation like was suggested above and then if needed will take the axe I carry for driving wedges, etc., and use it to shave off any dirt encrusted bark. Does not take that much longer to do and I feel the time is more than made up by not having to sharpen as much. Hope this helps.

 

[oscar4883]

Depending on the size of the stumps, and the amount you have to do, a wedge or two may very useful.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I do some excavation like was suggested above and then if needed will take the axe I carry for driving wedges, etc., and use it to shave off any dirt encrusted bark. Does not take that much longer to do and I feel the time is more than made up by not having to sharpen as much. Hope this helps.

Good suggestion - +1.
Also - a hardnosed bar is recommended. You don't want to get grit in that sprocket nose brearing.

 

[turnkey4099]

IMO there are two heights: High enough to be obvious to anyone in the vicinity or just off the ground. 6-7" is not very smart and I don't blame the people for being a bit p.o'd. I go with what the landowner wants. High (I hope) or low enough to run equipment over without hitting anything. Some jobs that calls for low enough to mow over.

I had one guy stop and berate me for leaving a high stump (wasting wood). I explained that the grass grows tall and the farmer moves equipemtn through that area. I'd rather leave a high stump than be down there just off the dirt.

Harry K

 

[wildfire4104]

just a suggestion...

Ryan,

In my humble opinion, there are several factors here. Yes dirt is the enemy of chain, however, with some steps you can mitigate most of the potential problems. I am involved with a lot of conservation and timber stand improvement projects, and this lends itself to lots of timber falling and therefore, lots of stumping. The best solution that I have found is a combination of what Lego and Oscar have said. I make all of my saw teams carry with them both a pounder for wedges and a standard fire service issue Pulaski. The pounder obviously for pounding wedges while stumping to help keep the weight of the stump off the bar and chain. The Pulaski can be used to grub out around the stump deep enough to allow the full wrap handle or any other portion of the saw to be in the duff or dirt. Also if the bark is extremely dirty, shaving it is a great option. Time consuming, but, if the landowner is happy, your wood will still be available, and best of all, cheap. All in all, sounds like a great set-up. Good luck.

:spam:

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

If it's firewood, you could cut it 1 or two lengths too high, then cut the stub off later. If the stem is knee high or hip high it shouldn't be unsafe to get on your knees and cut it as low as possible without sticking your bar in the dirt.

:agree2:

In each of the woodlots I manage, the HO participates in the State Forest Stewardship Program. Cutting stumps as low as possible is a requirement. taxmantoo's recommendation is the norm for harvesting, here. Felling cuts at a comfortable 36" height, then two more cuts gives two 18" rounds.

The biggest risk on the "ground" cut is imbedded rocks, that is, rocks hidden in the growth of the tree. It will take A LOT of sharpening to save the chain if you hit one but it can be done.

I used a carbide chain ONCE to help survive the dirty bark around base. It worked great 'til I hit one of those imbedded rocks and knocked off one of those carbide teeth. That one tooth knocked off every other tooth on the chain = $125 chain gone in one revolution. So, carbide chains seemed like a good idea but are NOT recommended for the "ground" cut.

We don't have to cut as low as lego1970 described. So, a wire brush is usually sufficient to get most of the grit off the stump before the cut - PITA but it doesn't take that long and will make the chain last longer.

 

[toddstreeservic]

if you have access to one and are close enough to run power/water a pressure washer works good too

 

[iamryan]

Man. Thanks for all of the great information. I got a call from a lady today that has 600 acres of mostly oak that I am welcome to. If she needs the same thing done, ill have plenty of practice to get it down!

 

[Rftreeman]

My saws have wrap handles, I love it when people say "can't you cut it lower?" I show them why I can't, saves on chain.

lol....same here...