Cylinder wear, shiny patches

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It’s common to have polished areas like that. A quick scuff up with 120 followed by 320 and you’re good to go.
Vintage,
That is exactly what I did. 320 with Kroil. Have to read up on the dish detergent thing. New idea for me. I sat the cylinder aside to reassemble my 346xp. Made a case splitter from the scrap pile. It won’t win any beauty contests, but it worked just fine. The 346XP is rotating smooth and free so maybe tomorrow it will be a running saw again. Had an air leak so I tore it all the way down for bearings, seals, gaskets, meteor piston and rings, and a new carburetor boot. It has always been my favorite saw. Needs a sharp chain, but give it that one thing and it runs really well along side bigger saws. Pics of the 346xp coming back together!

Thank you to all the folks who’ve given me advice. I’ll definitely post pics of the 044 when it goes together.

RandyC20DD4E2-9A3B-413B-943C-DD2941FD0B8E.jpeg
 
Looks nice. Was just stating that 120 isn’t too coarse. Nothing wrong with a haze on the cylinder plating to assist with ring break in. And its certainly not going to scuff the piston
I agree, nothing wrong with 120. Gets you where you want to be, quicker. Some start out with 600 grit and spend 2 hours cleaning transfer. I’d take acid before wasting 2 hours now days.
 
Well, the 346XP I mentioned above is in one piece, starting easily, idling smooth and low, and accepting throttle like it’s starving! Just need some daylight and a log for real world carb tuning. This was my first time tearing a saw all the way down. Super stoked with the results. Putting a coil on a 435 for Dad, then I get to start on the 044 that I started the thread about. Thanks again for the help, and forgive me the off topic celebration. I’m stoked to have my lone Husqvarna screaming again, and my son has a BIG double white oak down that will give me a chance to play with all the saws! It’s gonna be a good February I think!

Best All,

Randy
 
Cleaned up a cylinder today using 50/50 dish soap and water and some emery cloth. Worked great! Seemed to keep the emery from loading up with aluminum. Gonna do it this way from now on.

After honing the cylinder should be well washed with soapy water then water anyways.

Dish soap is easiser on the fingers, with no volatiles too.

Another thing, if you are using acid, you need to remove the carbon and any greasy/oily deposits for the acid to work. I alternate first sanding w/soapy water, then acid with rinses in between. If you use oil honing that has to be cleaned off before you use the acid.
 
After honing the cylinder should be well washed with soapy water then water anyways.

Dish soap is easiser on the fingers, with no volatiles too.

Another thing, if you are using acid, you need to remove the carbon and any greasy/oily deposits for the acid to work. I alternate first sanding w/soapy water, then acid with rinses in between. If you use oil honing that has to be cleaned off before you use the acid.
After honing I run cylinders in a ultrasonic cleaner for 10 minutes. Interesting thing is you can see very fine metal particles in the cleaning solution while it’s running. After that I rinse with water and blow dry with compressed air. After that you can wipe a clean white paper towel inside and it’s perfectly clean. Works really well.
 

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