Depth of face cut

[LogSawyer74]

Thanks everyone, very useful information

 

[Gypo Logger]

Cody, a seasoned, excellent faller can do magic. And get some plastic falling wedges, you'll eventually nick a wedge with your saw.



Also, there's only so much you can do with any kind of lean, and fences, pickups, houses, etc. have tractor beams.

I didn't think he was ever gonna get that last tree down. He left a Dutchman hence the difficult wedging.
A wicked man on wedges. Once he had the tree lifted he should have just refelled it.

 

[Section VIII]

Deeper notches do move the center of gravity and will increase the amount of top movement a given wedge will provide. Try laying them down closer to parallel with the fence, it is easier to get a tree to fall sideways to the lean than directly against the lean. Rope pull is much more reliable than wedges, especially with smaller trees.
Just be sure to use a long enough rope so you don't wind up under the tree.

That's why I get at least two helpers. I attach two ropes into a "V" formation into the direction of the desired fall. That way my helpers don't have to worry about a tree landing on them (and neither do I).

 

[Cfaller]

Bore straight through the hinge from the back where the wedge will be. It can give you room if the wedge is bottoming out on the hinge. I hate smaller trees like that. No room to work for the most part. The back cut first works pretty good on them.

This works great. Also try stacking your wedges.

 

[fordf150]

May not be the right way but on small wood do the world famous sloping back cut to give yourself more room for the wedge. Never tried it on a back leaner but I use that method for normal trees. Back leaner I might be a little scared the wedge would split the tree out with the extra pressure caused by a back leaner

 

[zogger]

OK, I am going to order the massdam rope puller with some rope that comes with it. Now I need recommendation for the block that will be anchored down yonder someplace, with the rope coming back up towards me, where I am cutting. What block should I get? The puller uses 1/2 inch, and I have some 5/8ths for an extension, plus chains and some tow straps, etc.

I figure the rope puller will work better for me, because I can get a line in up high, then pull the dang slack out. Wicked hard to do with the comealong, not enough pull length (for me)

 

[unclemoustache]

I "pull" back-leaners with a vehicle, winch or come-a-long... usually with a dead-head pulley so I can control the "pull equipment" from close to where I'm doin' the cuttin'.
*

What's a dead-head pulley??

 

[Trx250r180]

What's a dead-head pulley??

 

[Otahyoni]

What's a dead-head pulley??

Snatch block?

 

[rwoods]

I believe he is referring to using a pulley to change directions as opposed to creating a mechanical advantage. In other words, using a pulley attached to an anchor point in the desired line of pull to route the pull rope/cable close to where he is cutting. Basically an anchored pulley used to create a loop or turn in the pull rope/cable.

If I am wrong, I am sure WS will have no problem correcting me.

Ron

 

[zogger]

Site sponsor wesspur has some nice pulleys, spendy, but nice.

 

[woodchuck357]

Snatch block?

That's what I call them, but I believe a true snatch block is one that can be attached mid-line.

 

[Otahyoni]

That's what I call them, but I believe a true snatch block is one that can be attached mid-line.

The ones I call snatch blocks have a swiveling plate on either side of the pulley so, like you said, you can install it in the middle of the line without tools.

 

[rwoods]

WS can clarify but until he does I am sticking with the definition that a dead-head pulley is an anchored pulley. WS may be using a snatch block as a dead-head but a snatch block isn't necessarily a dead-head. When you attach a single pulley snatch block to the load and the end of the rope/cable to an anchor, the snatch block moves at 1/2 the distance of the cable creating additional pull but it is not then acting as a dead-head. In that set-up the dead-head would be the anchored end of the rope/pulley. Ron

 

[Otahyoni]

WS can clarify but until he does I am sticking with the definition that a dead-head pulley is an anchored pulley. WS may be using a snatch block as a dead-head but a snatch block isn't necessarily a dead-head. When you attach a single pulley snatch block to the load and the end of the rope/cable to an anchor, the snatch block moves at 1/2 the distance of the cable creating additional pull but it is not then acting as a dead-head. In that set-up the dead-head would be the anchored end of the rope/pulley. Ron

Fair enough. I haven't heard it referred to as that.

 

[rwoods]

Nor have I, but I believe that is what he means as usually a dead-head is something that is not active. In this case not moving beyond the spinning of the pulley. Ron

 

[1 stihl nut]

He was referring to attaching the line to the upper portion of the the tree he is falling, routing it through a pulley anchored to an object located in the direction he wishes the tree to fall, and back to the come along anchored near the base of the tree he is falling. It is for changing direction of pull only, so he can operate the come along in proximity to his cutting.

 

[Festus]

OK, I am going to order the massdam rope puller with some rope that comes with it. Now I need recommendation for the block that will be anchored down yonder someplace, with the rope coming back up towards me, where I am cutting. What block should I get? The puller uses 1/2 inch, and I have some 5/8ths for an extension, plus chains and some tow straps, etc.

I figure the rope puller will work better for me, because I can get a line in up high, then pull the dang slack out. Wicked hard to do with the comealong, not enough pull length (for me)

http://www.harborfreight.com/snatch-block-61673.html

It's bigger than it looks in the picture. I have one, although I admit I haven't used it yet. Seems pretty good for the money. If you have a local store, they have really good coupons online or in magazines.

 

[zogger]

http://www.harborfreight.com/snatch-block-61673.html

It's bigger than it looks in the picture. I have one, although I admit I haven't used it yet. Seems pretty good for the money. If you have a local store, they have really good coupons online or in magazines.

Looks good, price is good compared to the ones at my local TSC, but says for cable only, and I want to use rope. How wide is the pulley wheel?

 

[Festus]

Looks good, price is good compared to the ones at my local TSC, but says for cable only, and I want to use rope. How wide is the pulley wheel?

The groove is 5/8", the diameter is 4", the side plates are 3/16" thick, overall length is 8", the diameter of the top hole is 2". I don't see why rope wouldn't work, although it may slip on the pulley more than wire rope would.