Thinking about getting a couple of diamond files for my full chisel non carbide chains(only kind I have). Would like to hear your thoughts. I have CBN wheels for my Oregon 620-120 sharpener and will never go back to pink wheels. Wondering if the diamond files are lots better and longer lasting than regular files?
Diamond Chain file for non carbide chains-- good or bad
- Thread starter capejwc
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I suppose the diamond file could sharpen the chrome layer instead of kind of undermining and chipping it off like a file often does. What grit of diamond and what the density of the grit is and what glue must matter. Kind of intresting question I only have the kind of diamond chainsaw related stuff that go into a dremel. Not even sure if I have enough use to comment on them vs regular stones if there is such a thing as a regular stone.
I have tried the dremel type tool and found it was not a good fit for me. I really like my bench grinder for its consistency and ability to clean up a badly beat chain that I sometimes get to sharpen for friends. Looking more for the consistent hand sharpening with a file that does not dull much over time. As far as the grit, glue, etc, I do not know.
Try it and report back.
Im guessing it will be slow going with a diamond file, it will have much less bite than a regular file.
Im guessing it will be slow going with a diamond file, it will have much less bite than a regular file.
Diamond files will be much finer (grit wise) than normal files so I'd clean the chain prior to filing. I clean all the loops I sharpen (with my CBN wheels on my chain grinders, I have 2 grinders, one to sharpen the teeth and one to cut the rakers) and I give all the loops a bath in my heated ultrasonic cleaner with a heated lye solution. The lye removes any build up on the teeth as CBN wheels are very prone to loading up as well. After sharpening, I give them a dip in motor oil as the lye solution removes everything, including any lubricant so the untreated chains will be prone to rust.
Note, I don't hand file any chain, always grind them with CBN wheels. 2 chain grinders, one for the cutters and one for the rakers.
Note, I don't hand file any chain, always grind them with CBN wheels. 2 chain grinders, one for the cutters and one for the rakers.
I generally clean my chains before sharpening on my bench grinder too. Used to use my ultrasonic cleaner, but now mostly go with Purple Power in water solution to clean. After soaking, I brush with a stiff bristle brush to clean of the harder stuff. Most of my chains are stored in 'Dry Boxes' like I use when kayaking. The larger ones hold about 5 chains. When I put a chain into the dry box, I will usually give them a shot of WD40 which keeps them lubed and rust free until I put on a saw. Think I will order a couple of diamond files and see how well they work. The files on Amazon have very little grit, but the ones on Sawzilla look like they will cut pretty well.
I've tried all sports of solutions from Purple Power to Berryman's to Simple green but the lye works the best and I don't have to clean them, just rinse off and grind. I tend to do them in 50 lots for my arborist customers. I can get about 20 in the cleaner at a time. I run it hot (90 degrees as well). CBN wheels don't like crud on a saw chain one bit.
I agree that CBN likes clean chains. I do spray the CBN wheel with brake cleaner when dirty. Since I usually only do 5 or 6 chains at a time, will have to think about the lye solution. Pretty hard on skin from what I remember too. What ratio do you mix the lye and does it affect your ultrasonic cleaner? May make a batch and store in a sealed bucket. Guess you wire them together in groups so you can get them out without touching the solution. I will still spray mine down with WD40 when storing.
I only clean my wheels with a soft white stick that I got with the wheels. Mine never get dirty as the chain I grind are pre cleaned. I'd never clean them with brake fluid. WD 40 has no lubricating value at all, I don't use it. Meant for drying out water in electrical connections.
I don't handle the lye, it's in the cleaner and I fish the loops out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Never touch the hot solution. My cleaner tub is stainless so the lye solution don't impact it at all.
Get them out, rinse them off and let them air dry and grind and then drop them in a bucket of motor oil.
I have no idea how much lye I use, If it cleans them fairly quickly, I'm good with that. If it's too slow I add a bit more.
I don't handle the lye, it's in the cleaner and I fish the loops out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Never touch the hot solution. My cleaner tub is stainless so the lye solution don't impact it at all.
Get them out, rinse them off and let them air dry and grind and then drop them in a bucket of motor oil.
I have no idea how much lye I use, If it cleans them fairly quickly, I'm good with that. If it's too slow I add a bit more.
I think that the diamond files will be slower. Try one before investing in a bunch.
If they were ‘a thing’, we would probably would have heard more about this application. I only hear about guys using them to touch up carbide tips, or, as Dremel bits.
Chainsaw files are designed specifically for saw chains: hardness, tooth pattern, etc. Some companies (Pferd, others?) list smooth and coarse versions in their catalog, but these may be hard to find.
I prefer the vitrified (‘pink’, etc.) grinding wheels, but have been cleaning my chains for a long time. Have taken a lot of **** in these forums for it.
I use a commercial, water-based cleaner containing sodium hydroxide (lye), such as SuperClean, some ZEP products, etc.
I had a long, pleasant conversation with a chemist / applications specialist at the other end of an ‘800’ number, listed on the back of one of those jugs. He convinced me that there was a benefit to the surfactants, and other stuff in the cleaners, over pure lye.
$10 / gallon at Menards, etc. Dilute 50:50 with water. Usually takes just a few minutes.
I will link some related threads.
Philbert
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/chain-cleaning.72970/
If they were ‘a thing’, we would probably would have heard more about this application. I only hear about guys using them to touch up carbide tips, or, as Dremel bits.
Chainsaw files are designed specifically for saw chains: hardness, tooth pattern, etc. Some companies (Pferd, others?) list smooth and coarse versions in their catalog, but these may be hard to find.
I prefer the vitrified (‘pink’, etc.) grinding wheels, but have been cleaning my chains for a long time. Have taken a lot of **** in these forums for it.
I use a commercial, water-based cleaner containing sodium hydroxide (lye), such as SuperClean, some ZEP products, etc.
I had a long, pleasant conversation with a chemist / applications specialist at the other end of an ‘800’ number, listed on the back of one of those jugs. He convinced me that there was a benefit to the surfactants, and other stuff in the cleaners, over pure lye.
$10 / gallon at Menards, etc. Dilute 50:50 with water. Usually takes just a few minutes.
I will link some related threads.
Philbert
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/chain-cleaning.72970/
Would be good for fine tuning the edge but for actual sharpening use a traditional file.
I use brake cleaner, not brake fluid on the CBN wheels. The WD40 keeps the chains from rusting and does give some lubricant until the oiler on the saw kick in.
If anyone wants a bunch of vitrified wheels, let me know. I have about a dozen or so in all widths.
I heard that WD40 is good for aching joints but never tried it. Stinks too bad... Have a full gallon of the stuff on the shelf I'll probably never use.
Tried the diamond hand files years ago…waste of time and $
I received a couple of diamond chain saw files from Sawzilla. Quick test and they seem to work very well. They have a lot of grit and are not at all smooth with very little grit like some I have seen. Will give them a field test when I have a chance, but so far these will sharpen with any regular file that I have used.
What's the price point? I use diamond sharpening stones/ block for my knives and it's nearly more cost effective to use regular wet stones. (Wet stones take a lot more maintenance though.) Can't imagine a diamond chain like being very cheap, and they wear out just like everything else.
Greg Tracy
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I use the diamond stone with a Dremel. I use honing oil got nice results.
A long time ago I tried out a few rotary diamond files on a small 12v dremel style of motor. They cut very slowly and didn't last as long as a regular file. They did produce a sharp tooth, but control was poor. If I did it enough, I'm sure I would have gotten better at it.
I concluded it was mostly a waste of time and money. I think a small carbide mill on the same motor drive would have been excellent, though. Especially on a "rocked" chain.
Yep. That is how it worked out for me.
Unfortunately, the grit was too small to cut fast. I think with some coarser grit, it might work out better. They are probably perfect for carbide chain.
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