Did my first climb today!

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I imagine that you could, but there would be some friction, not to mention that it may rub against the eye of the bee-line, causing even more friction. I have had (on a few occasions) to haul myself up using just this 2:1 advantage and the least amount of friction, the better. Besides, a micro pulley is not that much.

I thought it would work. Just wasn't sure as to how well.
Thank you.
 
+1 squad, good post with good pics. do you ever use your center loop?

Yes, quite often. Depending on how I'm positioned in the tree, I'll sometimes attach the end of my wirecore or climbing line to it.

I also always carry a figure 8 descender with me and attach it to the center ring when rappelling down from the tree.
 
Currently I don't have the arm strength to carry 460 up in a tree...need to work on that. I'm considering a 260 Pro for smaller trees, what do you think about that saw?

I have an 026 in my arsenal as well. Great saw. I use my ms200 for as long as possible and then switch to the 026. When that won't cut it (no pun intended) I'll move on to the 046. Yes they are a bit heavy for a tree saw. My groundsman makes sure it is nice and warm before he sends it up (on my climbing line (nice to have it hanging there - even for fill ups).

Only had the 088 up once. :dizzy:
 
Is it improper to tie in under the pulley as opposed to above ? No matter how hard I try I can't put my ropes above. Am I going to die?
 
Yes, quite often. Depending on how I'm positioned in the tree, I'll sometimes attach the end of my wirecore or climbing line to it.

I also always carry a figure 8 descender with me and attach it to the center ring when rappelling down from the tree.
i think you have a good set-up with many options.
 
Is it improper to tie in under the pulley as opposed to above ? No matter how hard I try I can't put my ropes above. Am I going to die?
imo its improper and just should not be done. dan you could die, stop being skeert and tie above:dizzy: :deadhorse:
 
We all die eventually, just a matter of how and when.
Hopefully its when were very old and in our sleep.

Yeah squad I see you don't take impossible pieces with the big stuff either. I don't like chunks fifteen foot and 36" just too much weight for questionable groundies they either hold too tight and not let it run or let it run too much to stop. It stinks when you can't be up there and on the ground in the same moment. I never place my climbline under either:cheers:
 
Yeah squad I see you don't take impossible pieces with the big stuff either. I don't like chunks fifteen foot and 36" just too much weight for questionable groundies they either hold too tight and not let it run or let it run too much to stop. It stinks when you can't be up there and on the ground in the same moment. I never place my climbline under either:cheers:

I do watch my weight as well as my groundies, I know when its about to happen, sometimes i let it.
I do like the extra room you get or rather lack of room if you know what I mean. You shorten the drop and I know my lines are safe tucked up under there. Keep the pulley straight and there is a nice spot to tuck them, its not like they are in harms way.
I don't know the protocol on this this, I thought it was up to personal preference. I think the only real reason to put the lines above is so they don't get hurt by the rigging. Somebody hit me with an ansi standard.
Oh and 12 feet is where I get skeptical on that chit but with the right crew it can be done softly.
Mainly its cause flopping tops can be so unpredictable. Given all the circumstance involved I have to know I am going to be close to the same spot I was in after it drops.
 
I do watch my weight as well as my groundies, I know when its about to happen, sometimes i let it.
I do like the extra room you get or rather lack of room if you know what I mean. You shorten the drop and I know my lines are safe tucked up under there. Keep the pulley straight and there is a nice spot to tuck them, its not like they are in harms way.
I don't know the protocol on this this, I thought it was up to personal preference. I think the only real reason to put the lines above is so they don't get hurt by the rigging. Somebody hit me with an ansi standard.
Oh and 12 feet is where I get skeptical on that chit but with the right crew it can be done softly.
Mainly its cause flopping tops can be so unpredictable. Given all the circumstance involved I have to know I am going to be close to the same spot I was in after it drops.

Well dan I can look it up for you in the regs but the reason I don't go under is my ropes must last and last and also I like to remain mobile after the set up is loaded. It is your call If I were going under I would use a webbing sling with a d ring incorporated into it. That way the d would be on my side of the action and allow mobility should something go amiss.
 
Plasmech,

1. At times I didn't feel like my body was making the right angle with the tree, in other words not sure if my lanyard length was idea. Is there a general rule about this? Too close to the trunk and you can't really work, too far away it doesn't feel as safe. What's ideal?

I already told you this in one of your many other pleading threads. Nailsbeat pretty much repeats it for you right off the top of this thread, but I'm not going to call you a troll for that, there are other more common usage phrases that suit, like idiot.


2. What is the trick to adjusting the lanyard I described? I can't seem to find a picture of it online. It's a one-piece design...the Prusik itself is part of the lanyard, it's all the same rope. It was really hard for me to adjust.

I know this lanyard. There is no "trick" to adjusting it, the "trick" is selling outdated stock like this to idiots, usually as part of a cheap kit.



RedlineIt
 
Plasmech,
...
I know this lanyard. There is no "trick" to adjusting it, the "trick" is selling outdated stock like this to idiots, usually as part of a cheap kit.

RedlineIt

Plasmech,

Pay to play my friend, pay to play.
 
I imagine that you could, but there would be some friction, not to mention that it may rub against the eye of the bee-line, causing even more friction. I have had (on a few occasions) to haul myself up using just this 2:1 advantage and the least amount of friction, the better. Besides, a micro pulley is not that much.

Another reason I can think of to not use a biner is that the opening can be large enough that there could be a chance of the hitch passing part or all the way through the biner and getting caught up. It would be really bad to be looking at your self tending become a self belay, lol (visions of Wile E. Coyote). If you needed to do it I'd opt for a locking biner too (preferably not a screw lock). If you had a non-locking, I'd prefer a key-lock (where the latch does not have that hook) as opposed to the hook kind of arm engagement. I hate when my ropes get snagged on that.

Happy 400 to me.
 
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Plasmech, here is the system I use;
attachment.php

Another shot without the wire core flipline.
attachment.php


I use a 3/8" (10mm) Bee-Line Eye&eye prussik Cord (from Sherrill) tied in a Swabish knot (loop) onto my "climbing" line that is tended by a micro pully. I've attached mine with a loop of spectra, but a dog's leash snap works too. I like the swabish because it only loads one way.

Along with my wirecore, this becomes my secondary tie-in. There are alot of advantages using a climbing line as a flipline. Some are, but not limited to;
As the working end gets worn, you cut off the worn end & have a fresh line.
You can set this higher in the tree and work off a higher tie in point (sometimes even hanging off it to give your "sore feet' a bit of a rest).
You can descend on this if you need to.
You can haul up or lower equipment/rope on the standing end.
With this set-up I can adjust (lengthen or shorten) with one hand. (Even with a load [me] on the line).

-Just what I could of think of at the moment.

With the wirecore you will have to take some of the weight off the micro-cender to adjust it.
im using the same idea just a lil more compact
attachment.php
 

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