Didier splitters

[Tambia]

Didier splitter manuals or hydraulic information needed

Does anyone have any kind of manuals for the Didier splitter? I have had mine for about 18 years, let someone borrow it and they did some damage as well as changes. I put a new motor on it, runs great, but I am having problems with the ram moving too slow. It seems that the hydraulic lines have been changed and possibly moved. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
My name is Tambia and my e-mail is [email protected]. Winter is almost here and I have about 5 cords to split.

 

[specter]

sent you copy

Hi Tambia,

I sent you a copy of the manual that Shari sent to me. I hope you find it helpful.

Tom

 

[rusty shackel]

we have a splitter bought new from agway in 1978 [spring] still with the same briggs [ ya its gold] it uses engine oil for hyd oil sae 30 weight
splittmany a cord of wood with that .
BTW 1978 price was from the agway bill was a little over 700.00 dollars!


rusty s

 

[specter]

same engine

Using the manual I see that I have the original 5 hp engine. Its good to know that this splitter is a good one. My next door neighbor just a splitter and spent 1 grand. Knowing I got a good working splitter for free "priceless':biggrinbounce2:

 

[specter]

possessed cylinder

Well I finally got that pin/clip out. I got the end cap to only come out 9/16"!!?? Is this thing possessed or what. The end cap freely spins in and out to the 9/16" point then stops from coming out all the way. I tried blowing out the cylinder piston using an air compressor! The piston rod will come out most of the way then stop with the end cap still free spinning but not coming off all the way. Its like something is preventing the cap from sliding off all the way.

Has anyone ever got one of these end cap off? if so how did you do it?

 

[Tambia]

Thanks for the manual

Hi Tambia,

I sent you a copy of the manual that Shari sent to me. I hope you find it helpful.

Tom

Tom,
I can't thank you enough for sending the manual to me so quickly. It helps to see how it should look, and where all of the hydraulic lines should be as well. Mine hasn't worked in some time and it is great to have the "Old Girl" running again.
Thanks again Tambia


T

 

[specter]

glad it helped you

I am glad that the manual help you out.

As for me I am spending some time today to see if I can finally get that end cap off that cylinder. I figure if somebody got it on then I ought to be able to get it off so I can get the new seals for that cylinder.

Tom

 

[ronr]

The area in the end of the cylinder that has what looks like a wide saw cut part way around the OD of the tube is grooved all the way around the ID. The gland nut has a similar grove around the OD with a hole drilled in the bottom of the grove at one point. After the nut is put in the end of the tube a piece of square stock with a hook bent in the end is inserted in the notch in the tube, the hook goes in the hole drilled in the nut. You then turn the nut which pulls the square stock into the grooves, locking the nut into the tube.

As far as what it is stuck on there is an o ring on the nut after the groove. When you pull the nut out it gets stuck in the groove cut into the ID of the tube, you can see it in the slit in the tube. I know it doesn’t seem like an o ring would hold it up but it does, and can be a bear to get out. I think the last one I did I cut the o ring and pulled it out of the slit in the tube with some forceps.

One other thing, the sliders that wrap around the I beam wear out this then can put a bending load on the rod end and breaks the rod end off right where the threads meet the unthreaded portion of same.

 

[specter]

Thanks ronr what you described matched what cylinder services told me. Today I finally got the new seals installed as well as that infamous clip/pin. Put it all together, changed oil, hydraulic fluid, and spark plug & some fresh gas. plug cord to start it started right off. Cycled the splitter a few times to get air out of lines then split an 18" round apple log with no problems.

 

[ronr]

Good deal, glad to hear you got it going.

 

[specter]

filter

Yep I am glad that I got it working too. I am amazed that it works as well as my neighbors new log splitter.

I was curious as to why it had a hydraulic filter on the hi pressure side of the splitter??!! My neighbors new splitter has the filter on the return line ?? Wouldn't it be better to have the filter on the feed line between the hydraulic tank and the pump in order to filter out crap before it goes thru the splitter??

The filter it did have on the hi pressure line imploded the brass filter inside! Yes parts of that filter were found in the splitter valve and cylinder. Those bits and pieces are properly what torn the seals and o rings a part.

:dunno:

 

[triptester]

On log splitters there is never a filter on a high pressure line. The filter is usually in the return line which could reach 15 psi max. before the bypass in the filter base opens. Some splitters have the filter in the suction line between the tank and pump which is subject to vacuum but no pressure.

The only high pressure lines on a splitter are between ,the pump and control valve, and the control valve to cylinder ports.

 

[richt100]

My Didier

[I am in the process of replacing the hydraulic hose(s) on my Model MF. My spinger spaniel has two modes of operation, play and hunt. When he gets in the hunt mode he tends to go out of his mind. In this case he decided to chew my hydraulic hoses. Most likely trying to get a mouse that took up residence in the engine (4 1/2 hp Briggs and Stratten (sp). I am having a little trouble finding the proper fittings for the hoses. Had a little trouble getting the old ones off. The splitter works very well. I have had it for 20+ years with no problems until JAKE.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

[I am in the process of replacing the hydraulic hose(s) on my Model MF. My spinger spaniel has two modes of operation, play and hunt. When he gets in the hunt mode he tends to go out of his mind. In this case he decided to chew my hydraulic hoses. Most likely trying to get a mouse that took up residence in the engine (4 1/2 hp Briggs and Stratten (sp). I am having a little trouble finding the proper fittings for the hoses. Had a little trouble getting the old ones off. The splitter works very well. I have had it for 20+ years with no problems until JAKE.

Way to go, Jake! I've got some pickle jars I can't get the lids off...

richt100 - I noticed this is your first post - welcome! You will find a great group of people here with a stunning wealth of knowledge!

As to the hoses Jake 'ate', the manual I have lists part numbers but that won't help as the Didier is no longer made. You have probably already checked out a hydraulic supplier or two. Granger may also have what you need & they have a website. I've had great luck finding what I need at a local farm implement store.

Shari

 

[2coldHere]

Didier Shuts Off @ Cylinder Stop

I have a 1979-ish Didier Model HA19M splitter that I just revived. It's the first splitter I ever had (used to split with a go-devil but age caught up with me and I tore my rotator cuff and have tendinitis that same elbow and arthritis in that hand: no more axe-swinging for me). I don't know much about them but mine does something weird; well, seems weird to me.

I'll put on a log. Then I'll push the ram's handle down to make the ram go forward. It works fine till it hits its max extension point. Once it hits that point it immediately stalls my engine. I have to re-start the engine and put the handle in reverse.

Same thing in the reverse cycle. Ram retracts fine, but when it fully retracts and hits its max "in" spot it immediately stalls my engine.

If I keep a close eye on how far out or in I'm moving the ram I can avoid stalling the engine by just not going to the max out or max in, manually letting go of the hand lever before the ram gets that far.

But as I get caught up in splitting I sometimes forget to watch exactly how far the ram has gone and I extend it to its max and stall the engine.

It's a real pain in the neck because I have to keep yanking on the starter cord every 5 minutes or so.

Is that action (stalling the engine when the ram extends fully) normal? Do all splitters do that? If it's a malfunction, what's your best guess about what's wrong and how to fix it?

also, anbody have an owner's manual or other info you could send me on my Didier Model HA19M (5HP B&S black painted engine)? Can't find much at all on the net other than the old company became Forrester.

Thanks!

 

[specter]

Reply

Only problem I have had since I got mine up and running was the spark plug clip that fits over the top of the plug!! The clip was cracked and when the splitter was running the vibrations would shake the clip and cause misfiring as well as sometimes causing the motor to shut down. I went to NAPA parts store and got new clip and a boot to help hold the clip onto the plug. Works good now.

As for the manual I can send you a copy of the manual that Shari sent to me.

PM your email and I'll email you that copy.

Tom

 

[bigblock73]

The area in the end of the cylinder that has what looks like a wide saw cut part way around the OD of the tube is grooved all the way around the ID. The gland nut has a similar grove around the OD with a hole drilled in the bottom of the grove at one point. After the nut is put in the end of the tube a piece of square stock with a hook bent in the end is inserted in the notch in the tube, the hook goes in the hole drilled in the nut. You then turn the nut which pulls the square stock into the grooves, locking the nut into the tube.

As far as what it is stuck on there is an o ring on the nut after the groove. When you pull the nut out it gets stuck in the groove cut into the ID of the tube, you can see it in the slit in the tube. I know it doesn’t seem like an o ring would hold it up but it does, and can be a bear to get out. I think the last one I did I cut the o ring and pulled it out of the slit in the tube with some forceps.

One other thing, the sliders that wrap around the I beam wear out this then can put a bending load on the rod end and breaks the rod end off right where the threads meet the unthreaded portion of same.

Hey Guys
I'm a happy Didier splitter owner
The best I can tell,it's an early one
Still has the original engine,that I've gotten to run well
The best part is I traded a 1/2 cord of wood that they split themselves for it
I had the hydraulics gone threw with all the seals replaced

Here's my issue
One other thing, the sliders that wrap around the I beam wear out this then can put a bending load on the rod end and breaks the rod end off right where the threads meet the unthreaded portion of same.[/QUOTE]

This is what happened to me
Is there anyone who sells the sliders and cylinder or just the rod?

Thanks in advance

 

[brnchbrkr]

Official Didier Owners Thead?

This looks like what I picked up on Craigs List this spring. ;-)

I Could use a manual if any are still floating about.

Have to replace the Hydraulic Fluid and wondering what was recomended?

Thanks.

Didier has done pretty well for my needs. Been splitting everything I have so can't complain. Will look harder for ID but haven't seen anything yet.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

This looks like what I picked up on Craigs List this spring. ;-)

I Could use a manual if any are still floating about.

Have to replace the Hydraulic Fluid and wondering what was recomended?

Thanks.

Didier has done pretty well for my needs. Been splitting everything I have so can't complain. Will look harder for ID but haven't seen anything yet.

PM me your email address for a cc of manual.

Shari

 

[brnchbrkr]

Message Sent!

Thanks!!