Didier splitters

[h20togo]

the more i look at it it looks like its just a hole maybe bored down into the sleeve of the outer seal retainer cause it turns when i turn the hex shaped seal holder on the end of the cylinder

 

[h20togo]

I got it!!!!!!!

Ok folks thanks for the help I finally understood what ronr was explaining about the long piece of metal that hooks into the round bore in the cylinder cap I had to pry it up onto the slanted edge of the slot cut into the side of the cylinder it was hidden inside the groove and not visible I pushed it around to where i could grab it with a thick metal coat hanger after i pulled it out I just used a pulled and the seal cap came right off the cylinder tube, I'm postin a picture of the metal retaining strip and the cylinder end cap with the bore hole showing so anyone else that has this problem has a reference thanks again !

 

[Wife'nHubby]

h20togo:

Welcome to the "Didier Family" here on AS!

Shari

 

[Jimtait8]

Where were you guys a few weeks ago when I was having the same problem.I ended up destroying the cylinder trying to get it apart sometimes I'm my own worst enemy Jim

 

[mama]

spliter

I've had my splitter about three years now. Its starting to die under even the smallest load, maybe the motor is shot, I believe its the original 5 hp B&S.I did notice its going through alot more oil than before. I got it from the guy that had it for 20 yrs. Next season I'll look for a bigger horse motor.

 

[h20togo]

Yeah it sounds like your rings are shot if your losing oil and power. I put a newer used 5hp briggs off a pressure washer on mine and I"ve been splittin some unbelievably big logs with it just fine I don't really see the need for a bigger motor you'd be suprised how much power a good running 5hp has and you'll be saving some cash . and once again thanks to everyone for the hints and tips and manuals, my dad really enjoyed using this log splitter and he bought it from agway from which he had worked for agway feeds for over 35 years, and when my brotherinlaw borrowed and didn't take good care of the splitter I was pissed. But i was so happy when I got the new motor fired up and running and started splitting wood with it again to heat my won home it felt good cause I know if my father was stile alive he would be happy to see it going. and when the seal blew out and I couldn't figure out how to correctly fixit with out damging it at all trying I was stressed so this really means great deal to me to know that I have it apart and can now get the seals and once again put it back to use cause I've got another 20 cord of wood still waiting.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Yeah, you can split some pretty big stuff with a Didier........

Shari

 

[Shiftomatic]

Where can I find a seal kit?

Thanks for sharing all the info on the Didier splitter!

I'm trying to get mine working again. I have a Model MF26 and have replaced the pump and motor over the years and now I'm 98% sure the seals in cylinder seals need to be replaced. When trying to split even small 8" clear oak, it loads up indicating that the pump is operating in 2nd stage but only a dent is made in the log. This tells me there is leakage inside the cylinder at high psi. It is possible that the seals are worn out as well as the cylinder lining. Anybody out there replace the seals and still have these issues? Should I replace the whole cylinder?

The cylinder stats are as follows:
Bore: 3.5 inch
Rod: 1.5 inch
Stroke: 24 inch
Type: CH

Searching online for the seal kit number 200362 reveals that the kit is no longer available. But with several of you replacing the seals I know they are out there. I have read through the posts and found comments indicating a local tractor shop may have the parts...

Can anybody provide any more details on replacement seal kits or specific store names where you have found the kits?

Thank you!

 

[Wife'nHubby]

I'm not a pro at splitter repair by any means, but before you start tearing into seals check to make sure your hyd. hoses are not collapsing when running the stroke. Also, check your hyd. fluid level. When our seals failed, believe me we knew it (fluid geysered up in the air).

Shari

 

[Shiftomatic]

I'm not a pro at splitter repair by any means, but before you start tearing into seals check to make sure your hyd. hoses are not collapsing when running the stroke. Also, check your hyd. fluid level. When our seals failed, believe me we knew it (fluid geysered up in the air).

Shari

Thanks Shari,

I have experienced the geyser from the old pump, the heads on a few of the bolts that held it together were missing. I replaced the pump and hoses about 2 years ago.

I'm suspecting an internal leak from the back side of the ram past the seals to the rod side of the ram. This type of leak would not be visible unless the rod seals were leaking too.

I'll double check that my return line is not collapsing as it does have a bend that is a bit tight, but it is a fairly new hydraulic grade suction hose and I think it is OK. Fluid level is up.

Thanks!

 

[tomtrees58]

thear ok for a homeowner

 

[Markjewell]

Piston Cylinder Cap

Thanks to everyone for their great input.

As far as the piston cylinder cap, it sounds like you snake the retaining ring/wire out of the exterior groove on the piston assembly. When one reassembles, how the heck does this retainer go back in to secure this cap?

Also, I would be so appreciative if someone could e-mail one of these rare manuals for my Didier ([email protected]) . I know that it has a 4 inch piston and splits up to approximately 24-26 inches.

Thanks!

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Mark,

Manual (2 attachments) on the way to your email.

Shari

 

[specter]

O ring kit and retaining clip

To get a O Ring kit for my splitter I went to Hydraulic Cylinder Services in Rochester NY. I brought the cylinder and end cap with me. Using a set of calipers they measured the differences between piston rod and cylinder and then the cap and the cylinder. The cap gave them the measurements they needed. The complete kit was just over $17 and for $1 more they even threw in the retaining clip.

To install the retaining clip is the opposite of removing it. Simply install the end cap onto the end of the cylinder until you see the retaining grove visible through the notch on the outside of the cylinder. Next insert the tapered end of the retaining clip into the grove through the notch. Now spin the end cap around while pushing the retaining clip into the grove. BE SURE TO LEAVE ABOUT 3/4" -1" OF THE CLIP OUTSIDE THE NOTCH. BEND THE CLIP UP ON AN ANGLE SO THAT ENOUGH IS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CYLINDER. THIS EXTRA POSTION OF THE CLIP STICKING OUT OF THE CYLINDER WILL MAKE IT EASY TO REMOVE THE CLIP AT A LATER DATE SHOULD YOU HAVE TO.

 

[Markjewell]

Didier Manual & Piston Rebuild

First of all, Thanks goes out to Shari for e-mailing the Didier manual and sales brochure to me! Great fun to look this over.

Thanks also to Specter for the discussion on the retaining clip. Does this wire/clip have a small 90 degrees bend in it that fits in the hole of the end cap as you turn the cap to "pull" the retaining clip into the groove or bore?

Also, if I go this far, how tough is it to put a seal kit in this piston? The piston works fine, but leaks when using it (not a "pressure" leak) and it made a heck of a mess in my shed over the winter due to the front seal leaking.
I bought the splitter 25 years ago with the piston rod welded to the push plate. I guess I will have to grind the weld out. I am guessing that it is probably broken right at the thread area...

Does anyone know how close their piston push plate gets to the splitting knife at full stroke? Mine is about 1 1/2 inches away, which can be a pain on the real stringy stuff as the splitting is not complete...

Thanks to all.

Mark

 

[Wife'nHubby]

First of all, Thanks goes out to Shari for e-mailing the Didier manual and sales brochure to me! Great fun to look this over.

Thanks also to Specter for the discussion on the retaining clip. Does this wire/clip have a small 90 degrees bend in it that fits in the hole of the end cap as you turn the cap to "pull" the retaining clip into the groove or bore?

Also, if I go this far, how tough is it to put a seal kit in this piston? The piston works fine, but leaks when using it (not a "pressure" leak) and it made a heck of a mess in my shed over the winter due to the front seal leaking.
I bought the splitter 25 years ago with the piston rod welded to the push plate. I guess I will have to grind the weld out. I am guessing that it is probably broken right at the thread area...

Does anyone know how close their piston push plate gets to the splitting knife at full stroke? Mine is about 1 1/2 inches away, which can be a pain on the real stringy stuff as the splitting is not complete...

Thanks to all.

Mark

Mine comes to within 1/2" but I 'think' a prior owner added a piece of 1" plate behind the cylinder - which moved everything forward to avoid the issue you speak of. I think you can see that area in this picture:

Shari

 

[Bucko]

Mark, just run another block behind that one and clear the stringy stuff. PM me if you are interested in sharing those manuals.

 

[Markjewell]

Piston Positioning

Awesome idea to shim the back side!

Bucko, Shari (Wife'nHubby) sent me the manuals via e-mail within the past 24 hours.

I am sure that they can help you out. Shari?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Mark, just run another block behind that one and clear the stringy stuff. PM me if you are interested in sharing those manuals.

PM me your email address.

Shari

 

[specter]

The retaining ring/clip that I got was a basic spring steel piece with a taper on one end . It did not have the 90 degree bend on the other end. That bend is very important as if you do not have it you'll have one hell of a time later on if you ever have to try to remove it from the grove (as I shown in a previous post above). To remove the retaining ring you simply pull on it while spinning the end cap around. The installation is simply the opposite you feed the tapered end into the grove while spinning the end cap around. I used a bit of oil and red bearing grease for the reassembly of the o ringed end cap into the cylinder! Without the oil/grease the o rings tend to bind when sliding the end cap into the cylinder if this happens you could easily tear or notch an o ring resulting in leaks.

I shimmed the end of my cylinder an additional 1/2" forward to make the final split a bit easier.