Didier splitters

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Is this the "Tractor Supply one", mentioned on here?
Here is what I am working on. The hydraulic fluid did not appear to have water in it but it definitely had small metal flakes. I drained it and replaced with AW32. I added a filter with 2 magnetic plugs and stuck another mag plug in the return line. The engine/pump mounting plate is showing some green after pressure washing. I suspect this may be a John Deere trinket.
 

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Here is what I am working on. The hydraulic fluid did not appear to have water in it but it definitely had small metal flakes. I drained it and replaced with AW32. I added a filter with 2 magnetic plugs and stuck another mag plug in the return line. The engine/pump mounting plate is showing some green after pressure washing. I suspect this may be a John Deere trinket.
I still have a bunch of details to work out but here is how far I got yesterday. I replaced the steel lines with hose so I can try to set it up per the Cross valve instructions that say the plumbing is backwards. I changed the engine oil also. It was nasty but no obvious metal. I stuck in a magnetic drain plug in any case.
 

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Thanks, a lot for the info. Glad to see how it fits.
Splitter must be loud with only flex pipe for exhaust, lol
The original Briggs muffler is on the other end. It is still loud. I had to move the exhaust away because I was getting gassed.
 

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Too Much for a 12-1/2-ton splitter, I think, and TOO MUCH $$$
My splitter is 9-1/2 ton at 2,000 PSI. The 4 way does not slow it down at all. The 6 way is too much money for sure.

I suspect the 8 HP engine has a lot to do with it never stalling. I am still trying to figure out the pump. It's a Viking GP051870-CO. I can't find it in the Viking manuals. Does this look like a 2 stage pump? The in and out ports are 3/4" NPT.
 

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Your pump is different than mine.
My pressure port is on top, suction port on bottom, which is only 5/8" hose barb.
Mine is 2-speed, as Ram slows down on hard logs, then shifts after cracking thru and goes faster.
Have to put photo up here.
 
Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.

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Shari
I started with Wife'nHubby's Didier's spec sheet and added info from the manuals that I could find from the brands that Didier supplied splitters to. I limited this to older 3", 3-1/2" and 4" diameter cylinder splitters. This is a work in progress in case anyone has something to add.
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Valve works great, so far, does have the return kick out when retracting ram.
4" cylinder. which I had resealed by Hydraulic shop.
Using the cylinder speed calculator linked in this thread and the Viking pump manual I realized that my 19 second cycle time was a bit slow. The calculator came up with 15.4 seconds for my 7.2 GPM at 3,600 RPM pump. The 8 HP Briggs tached out at 3,580 RPM so that was close enough. Obviously my splitter is quite old and judging by the amount of metal that came out in the hydraulic oil there will be some internal wear contributing to the slower cycle time. I did notice that the suction line from the tank was stepped down from 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT. I swapped out the 3/8" stuff for 1/2 " plumbing and the cycle time dropped by 2 seconds. That gets the splitter to within 1.6 seconds of what the calculator says it should be running at. 2 seconds does not sound like much but I want to have at least 10 cord split for the next season.

The filter must be working because there was no metal in the oil when I drained it to replace the plumbing. I also added another magnetic drain plug in the tee.
 

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The area in the end of the cylinder that has what looks like a wide saw cut part way around the OD of the tube is grooved all the way around the ID. The gland nut has a similar grove around the OD with a hole drilled in the bottom of the grove at one point. After the nut is put in the end of the tube a piece of square stock with a hook bent in the end is inserted in the notch in the tube, the hook goes in the hole drilled in the nut. You then turn the nut which pulls the square stock into the grooves, locking the nut into the tube.

As far as what it is stuck on there is an o ring on the nut after the groove. When you pull the nut out it gets stuck in the groove cut into the ID of the tube, you can see it in the slit in the tube. I know it doesn’t seem like an o ring would hold it up but it does, and can be a bear to get out. I think the last one I did I cut the o ring and pulled it out of the slit in the tube with some forceps.

One other thing, the sliders that wrap around the I beam wear out this then can put a bending load on the rod end and breaks the rod end off right where the threads meet the unthreaded portion of same.
Good day. Just wondering if there is a manual showing these steps, maybe with pictures, as i have to attempt to conquer this task to partake in splitting season this year?
 
Valve works great, so far, does have the return kick out when retracting ram.
4" cylinder. which I had resealed by Hydraulic shop.
I bought a larger 16 GPM pump that better matches the 8 HP Briggs engine. I was looking for a faster cycle since the ancient 7 GPM Viking pump seemed a bit slow at 19 seconds full cycle. The new pump knocked the full advance/retract cycle down to 9 seconds. I will do a better job on the return line plumbing. I used what was laying around.

The pump speed calculator shows I should have a 7 second cycle. Hmm? Bigger hoses?
The new pump had no issue with Ash but now I don't have time to stack while the splitter is working. Be interesting to see how the pump handles Oak with knots.pump.jpg16GPM.jpg
 
I started working on my old splitter valve again and found the Cross de-ciphering tool for their valves. I swapped the hoses and flipped the handle actuating link to the top. This did not work so I swapped back. Looks like I have the wrong actuator option. Cross wants a "F" actuator option but I am quite sure that I have the "D" option. The "F" actuator is still available brand new for about $15.00.
 

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Heat will be main issue, larger hose will help in that a bit but the constriction of 1/2" ports on the ram will be the main culprit. Speed- larger hose won't affect that again because of the ram ports. If the valve is all 1/2" also just money down drain with step up and step down adapters. Eons ago I rebuilt my splitter ( after bending mutiple areas including the 2" thick foot plate) my valve is 3/4" ports and hoses also but the ram ports are 1/2" my speed didn't change that i noticed but the unit runs much cooler. If my pump goes or the ram then I will jump to 16gpm ( 11 gpm now) and a ram with 3/4" ports. ( finding 3/4" ported ram is more dollars than the 1/2") Iirc the 16 gpm pump is still a 1/2 output port just at higher pressure.
 
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