Didier splitters

[pondnstream]

I doubt that. heck they all run fine on ATF. might be a problem with the pump or the control valve. By pass function in the valve could be a culprit. need to get a gauge inserted in various sections to read pressure. Might not have all the air out of the system yet either. ifthere is a lot of bubbles in the tank got to wait a bit for them to dissipate. air in the oil will cause a problem like tha

 

[pondnstream]

You mentioned air bubbles and yes the hydraulic fluid that’s visible in the tank has many bubbles plp

 

[pondnstream]

There are bubbles in the hydraulic fluid after it’s been running for a few minutes. I think this is called cavitation. With air mixed in the oil I can see that the air will be compressed instead of the piston being pushed. I’m not sure why these bubbles are forming.
Hopefully my pressure gauge will shed some light on what’s happening.
First two pictures show the log I’m trying to split but usually can’t and the smaller pieces that I can always split.
The second two pictures show the hydraulic oil after it’s been running for a while with bubbles and before running when it’s pretty clear.

 

[triptester]

Air bubbles forming in the hydraulic fluid is caused by low fluid level or a leak in the suction line between the pump and hydraulic tank. An air leak in the suction side of the pump will usually not show visible leakage

 

[pondnstream]

Air bubbles forming in the hydraulic fluid is caused by low fluid level or a leak in the suction line between the pump and hydraulic tank. An air leak in the suction side of the pump will usually not show visible leakage

Thanks for that . I’ll check for air leaks and tighten the clamps on the hose between tank and pump.

 

[Old-Feller]

The return pipe inside the tank if there is one, Needs to be angled down and below the full level or it will create air bubbles. Is this a home-made tank? Or a factory made one? Here is my home built splitter, If you look at the first pic, You will see the old return pipe going straight down, It was in a location that didn't work for me, I salvaged this old tank off of a trash compactor, Anyway, I made my new return pipe the same way except I ran a pipe about ten inches long inside and then straight down with a 90 degree elbow and a 3 inch nipple.

 

[pondnstream]

The return pipe inside the tank if there is one, Needs to be angled down and below the full level or it will create air bubbles. Is this a home-made tank? Or a factory made one? Here is my home built splitter, If you look at the first pic, You will see the old return pipe going straight down, It was in a location that didn't work for me, I salvaged this old tank off of a trash compactor, Anyway, I made my new return pipe the same way except I ran a pipe about ten inches long inside and then straight down with a 90 degree elbow and a 3 inch nipple.

This splitter is a “Didier Splitter” which is a commercially made splitter for homeowner use, nothing like that beast you have there. These are no longer sold but lots were made and the design was evidently successful as the first generation of gas powered hydraulic log splitter. Many seem to still be in use, although they are aging and on the light-duty side . Look at this small tank , it probably holds about a gallon. I doubt the return tube bends down , the best I can do is to keep the tank topped off.

 

[Old-Feller]

I would still look into putting a larger tank on it, More oil means cooler running pump. And more longevity.

 

[pondnstream]

I would still look into putting a larger tank on it, More oil means cooler running pump. And more longevity.

Yes , a good idea , this one seems too small.

 

[brickle]

The return pipe inside the tank if there is one, Needs to be angled down and below the full level or it will create air bubbles. Is this a home-made tank? Or a factory made one? Here is my home built splitter, If you look at the first pic, You will see the old return pipe going straight down, It was in a location that didn't work for me, I salvaged this old tank off of a trash compactor, Anyway, I made my new return pipe the same way except I ran a pipe about ten inches long inside and then straight down with a 90 degree elbow and a 3 inch nipple.

Is there a vent hole in the cap of the tank?

 

[blades]

What I did was add a secondary oil tank above the oem one In this way the oem tank is completely filled, hence the return line is always below the oil level. all breathing and fill points are on the secondary tank.

 

[Old-Feller]

Is there a vent hole in the cap of the tank?

Yes it has a vented cap.

 

[Gabby3545]

Thanks for the spec sheet. I now know that mine is a MF26. Just put on a Predator motor as the Briggs was so danged hard to start. Working great after my kid added hyd fluid. Since it had blown fluid out the other day, I never even considered it was just self-purging air. Thanks, Shari!

 

[deputyrpa]

Finished the SF26 3-pt. I added a new 4 x 2 cylinder and rebuilt everything else. I also added wings to make it a 4-way. I sure hope the I-beam is strong enough to hold up to the force. I only took pics of the 4-way.

 

[deputyrpa]

Started splitting some of last year's elm cuts today. It didn't go so well. I'm running it on a newer Massey ag tractor with about 75 PTO HP, with plenty of flow at a tough above idle.

First, the pressure relief on the Cross valve was blowing on anything larger than 12", mainly when it hit the 4-way wings. The old Cross hydraulic valve appears to be non-adjustable, with a spring, cup and ball for pressure relief. The cap says 2000psi. I had to sledge hammer the cut off the wedge and retry.

Second, even with that low pressure blow-off, the I-beam noticeably bowed. It's only a 4x4 beam.

I think my choices are:
1. Get a valve with a higher psi and beef up the I-beam. I could weld 3/8 x 3" angle iron to the bottom I-beam flange (V pointed down). I also have 4" x 1/2" flat stock, but that may not be enough meat for welding to the the bottom flange, A stronger addition would be to rip it to ~ 3" and weld one onto each side of the web.
2. Cut the wings off. However, I really wanted a 4-way to increase my production. I have an older engine-powered MTD that's a single, and it's slow as heck. It also eats pump couplers at the worst possible times.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[doctorbrody]

I've had a stock Didier MFD26 for about 12 years and decided to upgrade it a bit for higher productivity.

- Swapped that awful copper colored Briggs for a Predator 212 - what a huge difference. Sold the vintage Briggs for $150, got the Predator for $89
- New control valve with detent (Cross CD11FCAO) which meant I had to get new hard lines made as the plumbing is reversed
- Installed a spin-on filter on the return line
- Repacked cylinder
- Fresh coat of paint and some homemade water transfer decals
- New wheels for funsies
- Got a slip-on 4 way wedge (SKU: 135061099) from Tractor Supply which fits but I haven't split with it yet
- Machined the brass slides flat

Runs great and I love having the detent valve. It was a leap to spend $400 on a splitter that's probably worth $400, but it was either that or start looking at $5000 units with a log lift and table grate. I only split about 5-6 cords a year, and would never buy a big box store machine. In the future I may replace the pump with a 13gpm Haldex Barnes for a little more speed, and fab up a bigger oil reserve tank. It would be great to weld on a proper axle for street tires but it's not going to happen anytime soon.

 

[CMK Services]

I've had a stock Didier MFD26 for about 12 years and decided to upgrade it a bit for higher productivity.

- Swapped that awful copper colored Briggs for a Predator 212 - what a huge difference. Sold the vintage Briggs for $150, got the Predator for $89
- New control valve with detent (Cross CD11FCAO) which meant I had to get new hard lines made as the plumbing is reversed
- Installed a spin-on filter on the return line
- Repacked cylinder
- Fresh coat of paint and some homemade water transfer decals
- New wheels for funsies
- Got a slip-on 4 way wedge (SKU: 135061099) from Tractor Supply which fits but I haven't split with it yet
- Machined the brass slides flat

Runs great and I love having the detent valve. It was a leap to spend $400 on a splitter that's probably worth $400, but it was either that or start looking at $5000 units with a log lift and table grate. I only split about 5-6 cords a year, and would never buy a big box store machine. In the future I may replace the pump with a 13gpm Haldex Barnes for a little more speed, and fab up a bigger oil reserve tank. It would be great to weld on a proper axle for street tires but it's not going to happen anytime soon.

Would love to know how that $75.00, 4-way wedge from TSC works out.
May try it.

 

[blades]

way slip on wedge. slip on -beat the h out it to get it off, nature of the beast. When I rebuilt my 20+ year old HF unit a number of years ago, I made a beam from 2 4x6" schedule 40 tubes welded together , it does not flex peceptably even when all 30 tons of pressure is applied and stalled out on some nasty crotch. Unilke the H or W beams which are forever flexing ( yep I bent the original hence the rebuild).

 

[swed1162]

She ain't pretty,but gets the job done...lift table is the best addition ever..

 

[Old-Feller]

She ain't pretty,but gets the job done...lift table is the best addition ever..

Where is the pusher plate?