dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

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A bit late stephen! You can't sleep...Me neither...I check Gio ,they are out of stock and the price list is $149.:frown:
 
I got a liquidation center near my place , they sell all stuff from Costco Wallmart Sears and many others, I will take a look tomorrow...:msp_thumbup:

Time to hit the sack....Good night and thank you
 
should be no problem for the EQ

293862d1367813961-9474281c6d97350b6ee3b33bad5f0a9a-jpg
 
O.K. Quakheads, what am I doing wrong. I did a major Muffler mod on the 38cc Earthquake, increasing its outlet area about 15 times what it was. It starts and revs great with the H&L set at around 1/1/2. When you put it to wood it won't cut at all. I have adjusted the L to 3 out and the H to 3 1/4. It cuts great, four strokes out of the cut and you can lean on it and it has incredible power for such a little saw. I cut a large ash with these settings last week and even noodled a large round. Today I attacked a 24" plus downed old oak. I thought I must have mad a mistake counting my turns out, so I did it again starting at 1 1/2 and ending up at 3 and 3 1/2, same results. I now have around 10 tanks of mix thru the little Quake, the plug is a nice light grey color, no tan at all, I am running Husky synthetic low smoke at 50-1. Have any of you had this kind of radical carb settings after modding a quake or any other little saw? This thing sound and cuts great. Any ideas or comments?


View attachment 294391ts?


After my Muffler Mod, I thought I did something wrong as well. I believe my low side is around 3 turns out, and high side is 2.
 
O.K. Quakheads, what am I doing wrong. I did a major Muffler mod on the 38cc Earthquake, increasing its outlet area about 15 times what it was. It starts and revs great with the H&L set at around 1/1/2. When you put it to wood it won't cut at all. I have adjusted the L to 3 out and the H to 3 1/4. It cuts great, four strokes out of the cut and you can lean on it and it has incredible power for such a little saw. I cut a large ash with these settings last week and even noodled a large round. Today I attacked a 24" plus downed old oak. I thought I must have mad a mistake counting my turns out, so I did it again starting at 1 1/2 and ending up at 3 and 3 1/2, same results. I now have around 10 tanks of mix thru the little Quake, the plug is a nice light grey color, no tan at all, I am running Husky synthetic low smoke at 50-1. Have any of you had this kind of radical carb settings after modding a quake or any other little saw? This thing sound and cuts great. Any ideas or comments?

attachment.php


View attachment 294391ts?

Yep; HUSKYQUAKE adjustment screws are way out there also
 
O.K. Quakheads, what am I doing wrong. I did a major Muffler mod on the 38cc Earthquake, increasing its outlet area about 15 times what it was. It starts and revs great with the H&L set at around 1/1/2. When you put it to wood it won't cut at all. I have adjusted the L to 3 out and the H to 3 1/4. It cuts great, four strokes out of the cut and you can lean on it and it has incredible power for such a little saw. I cut a large ash with these settings last week and even noodled a large round. Today I attacked a 24" plus downed old oak. I thought I must have mad a mistake counting my turns out, so I did it again starting at 1 1/2 and ending up at 3 and 3 1/2, same results. I now have around 10 tanks of mix thru the little Quake, the plug is a nice light grey color, no tan at all, I am running Husky synthetic low smoke at 50-1. Have any of you had this kind of radical carb settings after modding a quake or any other little saw? This thing sound and cuts great. Any ideas or comments?

View attachment 294391

I will try to check mine out this evening. I do not think they are out that far, as it would probably have alarmed me, but it is possible I did not notice. It could just be where they run based on the taper cut on the screws or the size of the jet the screws run into. It should not really matter in an absolute sense, but you don't want to be running with the needle unscrewed so far that the tapered part is withdrawn entirely from the jet, because then you have very little adjustment capability - it is only a fraction of a turn between some jet restriction and wide open. So I can see this being a problem if the needles are poorly formed and don't taper enough, or not matched to the size of the hole they go into.

If you use a caliper you should be able to compare the length of the taper to the distance of 3 threads - but you'd still need to know where on the taper it seats when fully screwed in.

I guess I would be a little concerned about the metering lever height or an air leak downstream of the carb.
 
Glad this popped back up - I've got Lyme-brain and am a bit forgetful at the moment. My L is at 1-1/3T, and the H is at 1-1/2T.

Like I said though, it only takes a small difference in the dimensions of a couple of parts and you'll get a different setting. And I can believe there may be more tolerance variation on these carbs.
 
Would that Earthquake saw be the same as " Kraft Quelle m52" that is marketed by saying its similar to Stihl ms440 ?

View attachment 294580

For whatever reason there are a lot of Chinese-made copies of the three sizes of Zenoah/RedMax saw designs. There are a multitude of different shapes and colors of plastic outer covers applied, with various names - that all appears to be up to the exporter/importer.

I have not been able to figure out how many manufacturers make these saws, but I think there are several. The Earthquakes appear to be made by a group that uses the "Topsun" brand and is if decent quality. Some of the others look pretty rough.

Your saw is clearly a mid-sized RedMax saw copy, based on the RedMax G5000 type like the Earthquake CS4518. Who knows who made it though.
 
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Have you put it in the wood at those settings or just run it in the shop. Mine started and sounded great at those settings after my mod but when I put it to the wood it needed something else.:msp_mellow:

Yeah, cuts great that way. I've run it hard full bar, including noodling. I may have more mods - base gasket removed, ported, muffler mod, spark advanced.
 
Little post MM video... sounds reallllll nice... :D
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/TcKELbmL-qc?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Now just gotta find my long reach torx drivers so I can play some more inside it. Was worried I had actually opened the muff too much, but it seems to like it.

Sounds like a Craftsman!
 
here it is, post-porting and in some dry doug-fir...
Sorry, no porting pics, but I have enough aluminum shavings to cast a new one probably!:hmm3grin2orange:

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kYSbxcwhS1U?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Still stock chain, but I'm impressed!
 
here it is, post-porting and in some dry doug-fir...
Sorry, no porting pics, but I have enough aluminum shavings to cast a new one probably!:hmm3grin2orange:

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kYSbxcwhS1U?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Still stock chain, but I'm impressed!


So you like it Earthquakes
 
After I dulled my stock chain I put on a loop of non safety full chisel "Laser" chain. With that my Muff modded quake cuts Ash as fast or faster than you ported saw with stock chain cuting fir. Try a loop of good chain and let that little bugger show its stuff.:hmm3grin2orange:
Nice sounding saw also...


HMMM; when I post about changing chains on these saws I thought members here were going to shot me after reading there post and pm's LOL
 
will you guys let this thread die,,, its making me want another earthquake but I can't afford one right now
 
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