dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

[singinwoodwackr]

gfy,:msp_mad::msp_mad: :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
yea i am 50 going on 51 in a couple of months,, yes i am over the hill,,, when i fart i leave brown streaks,, its hard to get a boner,, i drool all over myself,,, now,, you happy that you got all the old man info :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

only 50? punk

 

[joesmith]

gfy,:msp_mad::msp_mad: :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
yea i am 50 going on 51 in a couple of months,, yes i am over the hill,,, when i fart i leave brown streaks,, its hard to get a boner,, i drool all over myself,,, now,, you happy that you got all the old man info :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Its just like the viagra commercial...you are at the age where ya got some know how...

[video=youtube_share;4I4xBCq_cpw]http://youtu.be/4I4xBCq_cpw[/video]

 

[H 2 H]

HMMMMM

Looks like I have the same problem as a few poster in this thread


Man I forgot something

JMO

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Guess what' in the bucket of blackness....dyeing a horrible death:hmm3grin2orange:

Pics look great. How's it hold up to use (the dye job)?

Oh yeah, Repped!

 

[H 2 H]

The world is coming to the end for a few people JMO :msp_wink:

Just read on the internet (so it has to be true) that at major brand chain saw company is have there saws made in "CHINA" since 2011 what is this world coming too ?

Found this about 30 minutes ago here on AS

When I was in the shop I saw a Husqvarna USA banner. Then I had a post about modding a new 570 and was asked what year it was so I went to the shop and looked. I just assumed it was USA made. just thank the good Lord it didn't say "Made in China"


Word of warning PLEASE stay away for the (orange) KOOL AID

JMO

 

[joesmith]

Pics look great. How's it hold up to use (the dye job)?

Oh yeah, Repped!

Thanks...yeah the dye is holding great, but it penetrates the plastic, so I expect along time.

 

[joesmith]

Pics look great. How's it hold up to use (the dye job)?

Oh yeah, Repped!

Here is the link to my thread

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/216998.htm

 

[Chris-PA]

I couldn't help myself and did some disassembly so here are some more observations:

There is a summer/winter intake flap, but you have to remove the top cover to move it. It fits really poorly. When it is in the winter mode it pulls air from the outlet stream coming off the cylinder. When it is in summer mode it is blocked off, and then it's not clear to me yet where the air intake for the air box is.

The cylinder casting is really ugly compared to those of a Wild Thing or my Poulan 2775. There was indeed casting flash in the exhaust port - not sure how it would scratch the piston after machining but it feels rough.

The exhaust port is really small compared to the size of the steel insert in the exhaust port of a Poulan.

 

[naturelover]

Well, I was gonna mess with the carb flap, but mine was gouged out in the rear of the airbox for air flow.

Couldn't see that it would do much, so left it alone.

However, my second one wasn't. I guess the only place for it to pull air is the little slot there up by the carb flap. Will say that it does stay cleaner in there than my first one does.

Was gonna look at it today, but never made it around to it, guess will be for later..

And my first one had the little scratch on the piston, but has higher compression (by just a few ticks) than my second one, though the second one is clean as a whistle.

 

[H 2 H]

Take the summer/winter intake flap off the saw that's next to the handlebar and cut the center out (about one inch square area) place it back in the saw and glue screen door mesh over the hole (from the inside) using super glue to hold the mesh :msp_smile:

Just remember this is a $35 chain saw :msp_scared:


JMO

 

[Chris-PA]

Take the summer/winter intake flap off the saw that's next to the handlebar and cut the center out (about one inch square area) place it back in the saw and glue screen door mesh over the hole (from the inside) using super glue to hold the mesh :msp_smile:

Just remember this is a $35 chain saw :msp_scared:


JMO

Mine is the high end $40 model! Seriously, they retailed at much more that that, and I would have been quite unhappy had I bought one.

I have to look more closely at the air box - I'll probably put the flap in the summer position and cut a hole at the flywheel side front of the cover to pull cool air from there.

I was looking at pictures of a G3800 and it looked like it had a similar flap?

 

[Rudolf73]

Mine is the high end $40 model! Seriously, they retailed at much more that that, and I would have been quite unhappy had I bought one.

I have to look more closely at the air box - I'll probably put the flap in the summer position and cut a hole at the flywheel side front of the cover to pull cool air from there.

I was looking at pictures of a G3800 and it looked like it had a similar flap?

Copy of a G3800 if Im not mistaken...

 

[rmihalek]

I'm working on the MM on my first saw. The 2nd is arriving tomorrow and the 3rd is arriving Tuesday. I'll see what kind of modifications I can do with the three of them and then two are going to friends who are just getting into the "heating with wood" gig and they need a saw. I woulnd't dare give them an unmodified Earthquake!

 

[H 2 H]

I'm working on the MM on my first saw. The 2nd is arriving tomorrow and the 3rd is arriving Tuesday. I'll see what kind of modifications I can do with the three of them and then two are going to friends who are just getting into the "heating with wood" gig and they need a saw. I woulnd't dare give them an unmodified Earthquake!

I should also have a few arriving tomorrow :taped:


JMO

 

[farmerdoug]

Got my first 2 saws

Okay, I put together my first 2 saws. One had half a tank of bar oil. Both were dry of gas.

• One of the saws, the entire bolt came off with the bar nuts. I don't know if it impacts anything. I just thread the bolt through when mounting the bar. Kind of interesting.
• Both saws will start, but really have a hard time throttling up. You really have to feather the throttle to get it to rev up. If you put it in wood, or throttle too fast then it wants to die. My 5 year old says the 2 saws sound like a pig when you hit the throttle. They idle just fine.
• I don't know where to start when working on the muffer. I guess these saws are for learning on. It would be helpful if someone could show how you go about doing the muffler. I have a shotgun. If it get the right distance, then I could give the muffler a nice screen pattern. Obviously take it off the saw first and run a couple test shots on some steel sheeting so you get the results you want before doing it on the real thing. If you have any better ideas then let me know.

Thanks for your input!

 

[o8f150]

i have 3 more coming tomorrow too

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Okay, I put together my first 2 saws. One had half a tank of bar oil. Both were dry of gas.

• One of the saws, the entire bolt came off with the bar nuts. I don't know if it impacts anything. I just thread the bolt through when mounting the bar. Kind of interesting.
• Both saws will start, but really have a hard time throttling up. You really have to feather the throttle to get it to rev up. If you put it in wood, or throttle too fast then it wants to die. My 5 year old says the 2 saws sound like a pig when you hit the throttle. They idle just fine.
• I don't know where to start when working on the muffer. I guess these saws are for learning on. It would be helpful if someone could show how you go about doing the muffler. I have a shotgun. If it get the right distance, then I could give the muffler a nice screen pattern. Obviously take it off the saw first and run a couple test shots on some steel sheeting so you get the results you want before doing it on the real thing. If you have any better ideas then let me know.

Thanks for your input!

see above for muff suggestions...couple of pages back

You need to re-tighten the bar stud. remove and clean the inner threads well...coat with a little blue Locktite. If you don't have a stud-seating tool (most of us don't) use the two bar nuts tightened together on the outer threads of the stud to torque it back down into the case. make sense?

sounds like the hi screw is turned to far in (lean) and the thing is starving for fuel when you pull the trigger.

 

[naturelover]

My second one was set way too lean.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

 

[H 2 H]

For sure they need a little TLC when you take them out of the box


JMO

 

[BlueSmoke12]

Just received my second Earthquake yesterday.

It was packed loose in a big auger box. I'm sure it got jostled around in shipping.

View attachment 272035View attachment 272036

It had been run before. 1/2 a tank of bar oil in it. Some saw dust through out.

I figure this one was retuned to a retailer and I'm sure it ran like GARBAGE.....

Upon close examination I noticed the spark plug was not seated fully. A jucy radial pattern of oily residue was all over the top of the cylinder.

I pulled the plug and examined the threads and what I could see of the cylinder walls and piston. All looked well.

I reinstalled the plug correctly and started it up.

Seem to run OK.

I now need to get the DD carb tool to richen up the Hi mix and I need to learn how to do a MM.

Came with the saw, scrench, photo copied manual, bar, chain, and bar cover.

View attachment 272037

I'm newly diagnosed with CAD.......

I made a rookie CAD diesease mistake........

My wife came to the basement where I was examining the "new" Quake.....She did a quick area survey and said ..."You have three saws?" Turned and left......boy I'm glad the gun safe was closed......:msp_wink: