dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

[Streblerm]

I still don't see the connection though. Ryobi bought saws from two different manufactures (MTD did too) - so how does the adjuster from the first manufacturer get to become a part for saws of the second?

I think MTD bought the Ryobi name. My guess is that any OPE with the Ryobi name is now MTD and MTD is supporting parts from previous models. Just like if you bought parts for a Redmax today it would be through Husqvarna.

 

[rmihalek]

Here's a modded EQ making some easy work on a solid piece of red oak.

[video=youtube;OioN4rFofB0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OioN4rFofB0[/video]

 

[Chris-PA]

As far as I know no rim/drum sprocket is available. The sprocket drives the oil pump and it isn't a really common saw. I was looking to change a redmax over to .325 and came up with nothing on either a .325 drum or a rim/sprocket. If you find anything I'd love to know.

I believe the GZ4500 is 0.325, so if you can find a sprocket for that you should be good. Probably pricey though.

 

[Streblerm]

Yeah, I think the .325 drum was like $30 and I just decided to stick with the lo-pro chain and a 14" bar. I have quite a few 16" .325 chains but it just wasnt worth the hassle. I find that I like the lo-pro chain anyway. Less to sharpen.

as far as I know there are no rim/drum options though.

 

[Chris-PA]

Even the RedMax 3/8 Lo Pro sprockets are not cheap. However, having learned about the various brands that use this design, now including the Earthquake, I've got a couple spares. But that trick doesn't work for the 0.325 GZ4500 sprockets as I don't think they were used elsewhere.

It looks like the sprocket used on the mid sized G5000 series of saws has a different part number although it is also 0.325. The Chinese are making a lot of those.

 

[diggers_dad]

As far as I know no rim/drum sprocket is available. The sprocket drives the oil pump and it isn't a really common saw. I was looking to change a redmax over to .325 and came up with nothing on either a .325 drum or a rim/sprocket. If you find anything I'd love to know.

Even the RedMax 3/8 Lo Pro sprockets are not cheap. However, having learned about the various brands that use this design, now including the Earthquake, I've got a couple spares. But that trick doesn't work for the 0.325 GZ4500 sprockets as I don't think they were used elsewhere.

It looks like the sprocket used on the mid sized G5000 series of saws has a different part number although it is also 0.325. The Chinese are making a lot of those.

I have noticed the .325 Poulan clutch and drum fit the crank (threads and shaft diameter) on the EQ. It's too small for the chain brake and won't run the oil pump, but I wonder if it could be modified to work? If so, there are surely a world of those parts out there to be had.

 

[cmarti]

Ryobi is now connected to MTD. I have odered parts for a Ryobi Trimmer and they are MTD parts. The trimmer shared some parts on an MTD(Bolens) cultivator I have. I think they switched where they subbed Ryobi saws when Husqvarna bought Redmax. MTD saws (Cub Cadet, MTD, Remington) are from a different Chinese manufacturer. There are some threads here on the 5520. Craftsman sold this version of the 5520 as well. It get's tough to keep track. I think the Earthquake is a Redmax clone with changes, while the Ryobi was Redmax built(in China).

 

[Philbert]

I thought Ryobi was owned by Home Depot?

Philbert

 

[dff110]

Carb Adjustment

I have run my Quake a few times before, but never really gave it a work out. I cut almost a cord of wood with it today, and it was running a little rich (It ran pretty well out of the box, so I never fooled with it). Took it apart and cleaned it, then loosened up the carb, turned it sideways and used a piece of brake line to pull the needles out. Cut a slit in each one for easier adjustment, and put everything back together. Adjusted the carb to the normal specs I use of 3/4 and 1 turn open.

When I started it back up, it would only with the choke on, so I opened up the low side some more. All in all, after a half hour of fooling around with it, I still can't get it nailed down. This thing in a PITA to adjust and very hard to hear it 4 stroke with the stock muffler. The major problem is after running full throttle, it will idle very high for a long time before it slows down to a normal idle. I have never run into that before.

Has anyone else had problems adjusting these?

 

[diggers_dad]

I have run my Quake a few times before, but never really gave it a work out. I cut almost a cord of wood with it today, and it was running a little rich (It ran pretty well out of the box, so I never fooled with it). Took it apart and cleaned it, then loosened up the carb, turned it sideways and used a piece of brake line to pull the needles out. Cut a slit in each one for easier adjustment, and put everything back together. Adjusted the carb to the normal specs I use of 3/4 and 1 turn open.

When I started it back up, it would only with the choke on, so I opened up the low side some more. All in all, after a half hour of fooling around with it, I still can't get it nailed down. This thing in a PITA to adjust and very hard to hear it 4 stroke with the stock muffler. The major problem is after running full throttle, it will idle very high for a long time before it slows down to a normal idle. I have never run into that before.

Has anyone else had problems adjusting these?

Sounds like an air leak or you got some trash in the carb when you had it apart.

 

[o8f150]

I have run my Quake a few times before, but never really gave it a work out. I cut almost a cord of wood with it today, and it was running a little rich (It ran pretty well out of the box, so I never fooled with it). Took it apart and cleaned it, then loosened up the carb, turned it sideways and used a piece of brake line to pull the needles out. Cut a slit in each one for easier adjustment, and put everything back together. Adjusted the carb to the normal specs I use of 3/4 and 1 turn open.

When I started it back up, it would only with the choke on, so I opened up the low side some more. All in all, after a half hour of fooling around with it, I still can't get it nailed down. This thing in a PITA to adjust and very hard to hear it 4 stroke with the stock muffler. The major problem is after running full throttle, it will idle very high for a long time before it slows down to a normal idle. I have never run into that before.

Has anyone else had problems adjusting these?

gut the muffler and it will run a lot better and will probably adjust out right,,,, but on the other hand i have found that the fuel pick up is at the tank opening which makes adjusting of the carb a pain

 

[milkman]

I have run my Quake a few times before, but never really gave it a work out. I cut almost a cord of wood with it today, and it was running a little rich (It ran pretty well out of the box, so I never fooled with it). Took it apart and cleaned it, then loosened up the carb, turned it sideways and used a piece of brake line to pull the needles out. Cut a slit in each one for easier adjustment, and put everything back together. Adjusted the carb to the normal specs I use of 3/4 and 1 turn open.

When I started it back up, it would only with the choke on, so I opened up the low side some more. All in all, after a half hour of fooling around with it, I still can't get it nailed down. This thing in a PITA to adjust and very hard to hear it 4 stroke with the stock muffler. The major problem is after running full throttle, it will idle very high for a long time before it slows down to a normal idle. I have never run into that before.

Has anyone else had problems adjusting these?

Is there a difference in the hi and lo needle, did you put them back in the right spot? Just shooting in the dark.:msp_confused:

 

[rmihalek]

My gut feeling tells me that the choked down muffler is interfering with the carb adjustment. I agree with 08 that you should gut the muffler then work on the carb adjustments. I think the stock muffler opening is about the size of pencil eraser. I don't know how any engine could run with an outlet that small.

 

[dff110]

Sounds like an air leak or you got some trash in the carb when you had it apart.

I don't know where an air leak would have come from, and I made sure to blow all of the dirt out of the bar box before I did anything. But I think I'm going to fully remove the carb and open it up to clean everything, then make sure everything is correct.

gut the muffler and it will run a lot better and will probably adjust out right,,,, but on the other hand i have found that the fuel pick up is at the tank opening which makes adjusting of the carb a pain

Gutting the muffler is on my list of things to do. I want to use heat and a dremel to open it up and remove everything rather than drilling though it. Nothing wrong with the drilling method, but I like to do things neatly. But my dremel died, and I haven't gotten a new one yet.

Is there a difference in the hi and lo needle, did you put them back in the right spot? Just shooting in the dark.:msp_confused:

When I had then out, they seemed to be the same size. Which is odd to me, most are different sizes. But I only removed one at a time, so I know that isn't the problem


Just getting a screw driver in there to turn it is a pain in the **s, I was getting frustrated so I put it away until tomorrow....besides, it was almost time for the race :smile2:

 

[Chris-PA]

I don't know where an air leak would have come from, and I made sure to blow all of the dirt out of the bar box before I did anything. But I think I'm going to fully remove the carb and open it up to clean everything, then make sure everything is correct.



Gutting the muffler is on my list of things to do. I want to use heat and a dremel to open it up and remove everything rather than drilling though it. Nothing wrong with the drilling method, but I like to do things neatly. But my dremel died, and I haven't gotten a new one yet.



When I had then out, they seemed to be the same size. Which is odd to me, most are different sizes. But I only removed one at a time, so I know that isn't the problem


Just getting a screw driver in there to turn it is a pain in the **s, I was getting frustrated so I put it away until tomorrow....besides, it was almost time for the race :smile2:

It's possible the carb gasket got damaged and is letting air in behind the carb. A dremel may have a hard time on the muffler. I've used a die grinder.

This worked pretty well on the non-cat muffler: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/227548.htm I expect it would work well as a way to get to and remove the Cat material too.

 

[naturelover]

Mine seem to like the carb screws out further than normal. I think about 2 turns from seated on the H, and 1-1/4 or more on the L is where I'm at on my 4.

They are hard to hear 4-stroking, really have to listen for it if you still have the stock muffler.

 

[naturelover]

Speaking of the Quake.

Buddies and I got to do some cutting today...

The Quake performed flawlessly. Put around 2 tanks through it, we ended up with 3 loads of wood between us. I think its waking up a little, it was cutting really well today, throwing sawdust like a pro.

Got one truckload of wood split and cut, and decided it was time for lunch. A nice little campfire and roasted hotdogs got us ready for the next loads. Man, those were some of the best hotdogs I've had.. mmmmm...

Cutting up my load, did get it pinched in an overhanging log, and had to get cut out. I and the Quake were grateful though, but the Shindy 500 was ready if it would have really been needed. Never leave home with just one saw...

Afterward though, was thinking I should have taken the 441, as we ran into someone down below us cutting some poplar and hickory. It was probably a good 35" or better, and he had a Husky 450 or 460 buried in it, poor thing was definitely straining. On the plus side, if they do decide its too big, might be something for the 441 to take a whack at...

All in all, a great day of firewood gathering, some good food, and some more time behind the Quake.

Next time will have to take some more pictures though...

(and take a picture before unloading half the truck. )

 

[diggers_dad]

I have run my Quake a few times before, but never really gave it a work out. I cut almost a cord of wood with it today, and it was running a little rich (It ran pretty well out of the box, so I never fooled with it). Took it apart and cleaned it, then loosened up the carb, turned it sideways and used a piece of brake line to pull the needles out. Cut a slit in each one for easier adjustment, and put everything back together. Adjusted the carb to the normal specs I use of 3/4 and 1 turn open.

When I started it back up, it would only with the choke on, so I opened up the low side some more. All in all, after a half hour of fooling around with it, I still can't get it nailed down. This thing in a PITA to adjust and very hard to hear it 4 stroke with the stock muffler. The major problem is after running full throttle, it will idle very high for a long time before it slows down to a normal idle. I have never run into that before.

Has anyone else had problems adjusting these?

gut the muffler and it will run a lot better and will probably adjust out right,,,, but on the other hand i have found that the fuel pick up is at the tank opening which makes adjusting of the carb a pain

My gut feeling tells me that the choked down muffler is interfering with the carb adjustment. I agree with 08 that you should gut the muffler then work on the carb adjustments. I think the stock muffler opening is about the size of pencil eraser. I don't know how any engine could run with an outlet that small.

I was going off of his statement about it running so well before. If it ran great without the muffler mod before, it should also have ran well after he re-assembled. I agree the MM makes a big difference, I just didn't think that was the problem.

I don't know where an air leak would have come from, and I made sure to blow all of the dirt out of the bar box before I did anything. But I think I'm going to fully remove the carb and open it up to clean everything, then make sure everything is correct.

It's possible the carb gasket got damaged and is letting air in behind the carb.

That was what I was thinking... a little piece of something between the carburetor and housing. If that's the only area you worked on, it has to be something in that area.

 

[H 2 H]

Mine seem to like the carb screws out further than normal. I think about 2 turns from seated on the H, and 1-1/4 or more on the L is where I'm at on my 4.

They are hard to hear 4-stroking, really have to listen for it if you still have the stock muffler.

It depends on the mod's you do

My pair of 250's that I have; have different settings on the carb and both have the same carb but the MM and the cleaning up on the ports are different

I only have one Earthquake modded

You just have to play with them to find the sweet spot :msp_wink:

 

[cmarti]

I thought Ryobi was owned by Home Depot?

Philbert

Could be. Maybe they just sub each piece of ope to different Manufacturers and put the "Ryobi" on it....and MTD got the trimmer:dunno: