dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

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I know. Like to break mind out again, but pretty much got all the wood I need for the rest of the year cut and split.

I do however need some more candles. :)


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I have a couple old well used saws that blow some pretty high numbers, perhaps it is from the carbon in the combustion chamber from the 16/1 mix My quake is blowing a little over 150 stock and dry, is this likely to improve with use? It is new for all practical purposes...the old ones are well 25-30 years old...my newer Dolmar 7900 is in between.
I wouldn't worry about it, I doubt it is a sign of something wrong with it. It will possibly take longer for the rings to seat, and it probably has more squish than it needs. I wish I had a gauge to measure mine after base gasket removal. Heck, I never measured the squish either:msp_ohmy: You can tell you are pulling on something when you start it though!
 
Had to try another small mod's to the HUSKYQUAKE

Extra hole in top cover

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Winter/Summer door is completely taking off and screen door mesh replaces it

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Under the air cleaner a extra hole to help with breathing

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And it's messing the cylinder gasket now

Everything was nice up in the woods then these dark clouds moved in and it hailed and poured down rain and wind blowing all at the same time the rain was sideways so I came home
 
Truck looked pretty clean for a '85, if that was the north east the bed would be rotten off it from all the salt they spray on the roads during winter. 351w or a 460???
 
Truck looked pretty clean for a '85, if that was the north east the bed would be rotten off it from all the salt they spray on the roads during winter. 351w or a 460???

460

They lived about 5 miles from the race track the last several years and pulled there sprint car hauler with it

There are things wrong with it but nothing big
 
you need a big wood hauling trailer and a large gas charge card to make the best use of that truck.:D:D I think you did good.

Yes I need a large charges card I was thinking about using your charge card ?

NO NO; I'm retired I can get a load a day and not worry about others cutting the trees down

I've already taking care of my brothers supply for next winter all I have to do is my supply and my Aunt maybe six more cords to cut :msp_smile:


THX
 
The Down Under Wonder

I think I found the Aussie version of the 'Quake. 37.2cc, Fuel tank 310ml, Oil tank 210ml, 16" B&C.
Without pulling all the plastic off it looks much the same as the Quake. Unfortunately, nowhere near
as cost effective as the one's you guys have been playing with. Cost $Au98.00. But I thought if it
was the same design it may be as much fun anyway, so I went ahead and bought it.
The muffler doesn't have any of the cat obstruction,but we don't have all the antipollution gear
just yet. I'll give it a bit of a tweak on the gas outlet of the muff and see how she runs. :msp_tongue:

It's been so long since this thread started I can't remember if anyone said what oil ratio they
decided on. Did everyone stick to the 25:1 that the box says or did you just run what you use in
your name brand saws?
 
I think I found the Aussie version of the 'Quake. 37.2cc, Fuel tank 310ml, Oil tank 210ml, 16" B&C.
Without pulling all the plastic off it looks much the same as the Quake. Unfortunately, nowhere near
as cost effective as the one's you guys have been playing with. Cost $Au98.00. But I thought if it
was the same design it may be as much fun anyway, so I went ahead and bought it.
The muffler doesn't have any of the cat obstruction,but we don't have all the antipollution gear
just yet. I'll give it a bit of a tweak on the gas outlet of the muff and see how she runs. :msp_tongue:

It's been so long since this thread started I can't remember if anyone said what oil ratio they
decided on. Did everyone stick to the 25:1 that the box says or did you just run what you use in
your name brand saws?

I'm no expert on the quake....I only bought one. But that does look dam near identical. Except yours is all shinny and new. Mine came to me covered in sawdust and oil. The first thing I did was tear off most of the stickers, and throw away the box with owners manual (who needs em anyway). So I never saw anything about running 25:1 mix in these things. I just run the full synthetic at 40:1, same thing all my other saws get. I'm not sure what the exchange rate is between AUS and the US, but $98 isn't too bad of a price for a good running chainsaw. It isn't a fancy name brand, but IMO it's a lot better than the new Poulans that are in the same price range.
 
Well I woke up a Quake today.

Finally got around to the muffler mod.

Turned a quiet homeowner saw into something better.

View attachment 286127View attachment 286128View attachment 286129

Motor woke right up now that the exhaust basically has a straight path out.:smile2:

Might need to be richened up. Was able to score a double D tool locally.

Used the saw quite a bit before the MM.

Will get out next week to see if the MM made a practical difference.:msp_confused:
 
Well I tore the Quake down last night because I was seeing a mark on the cylinder wall above the exhaust port. Sure enough there is a very shallow stripe there. It appears to be due to a fairly long scratch on the piston that runs from near the ring down towards the skirt - but it does not touch either. That scratch was on it when I got it, and I didn't worry much about it because I could not really feel it and as I said, it was just kind of sitting in the middle of the skirt.

So anyway, I did some sanding with 400 grit and ran the patented Wiggles Hone through it (an eye bolt with some ScotchBrite in a drill), and it cleaned up pretty well. I did not try to get it all out as it's really shallow anyway. I smoothed the piston too, including the scratch and around the crown.

I was off today to do some major work on our Maytag washer/dryer, but I put it back together and let the sealant set up, and before dark I spent some time cutting with it. I don't know what the compression is because I don't have a gauge, but it takes a decent yank on the cord. The saw runs quite nicely, but it just doesn't have that snappy acceleration my modified Poulans do. It's ported, the base gasket is removed and the muffler modified, but the port timing is still quite conservative (I duration 147, E duration 148 and blowdown is a large 25). I know the transfers need to be raised and the entrance to the lower transfers is restrictive, but I still think it should have more snap.

So tomorrow I think I will give it a bit of timing advance to see if that wakes it up any. If that doesn't work maybe I'll put the wide open muffler back on, which might make it seem faster!
 
OK, the timing is now advanced. about 3-4deg. It's hard to measure accurately using a rope as a piston stop. The saw feels snappier unloaded, but I want to go put it in wood. That will have to wait until I drain the watered fuel out of the Wheel Horse so I can haul the saws and stuff up to the woods.:angry:
 
:clap::clap: That's what it needed! It's no race saw, but it has some throttle response now and it holds the rpm in the cut much better. What a nice saw to use!

Gratuitous shot of the Earthquake without flywheel - almost looks like a real saw! Note the airbox inlet behind the flywheel.

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Some Quake action today!!!! :rock:

Getting some in for a bud before a little snowstorm blows in. Looks like it won't be as bad as first predicted, but he was out anyways, so we cut up a pickup load for him.

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Picture537_zpsae078248.jpg


A little bit toward the goal... :)

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So I'm curious if anyone else has advanced the timing on their Quake yet, and if so what kind of change did you notice?
 
I haven't but might just try it

Did you get rid of the "key"
No, I filed the edge of the slot. By filing the slot I'm making a relative change from where ever it was. I guess you could do it either way, but I wanted some guidance on where to put it - if you remove the key then you would have to be able to set the timing in absolute degrees because it would be hard to tighten it and keep it located precisely. You cannot see the keyway while tightening it.

I could set up a timing light but that seems like a lot of trouble, and I would still need to make some marks for TDC. By filing the slot I'm making a relative change from where ever it was. You only need a little bit - at the radius of the keyway 0.012 is 3[SUP]o[/SUP], which is about 0.100" at the edge of the flywheel.
 

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