I have a tree monkey ported 359. Previous owner says it pulls a 24" in hardwood just fine. I run a 20 on it, I don't have a 24 small mount so I haven't tried it.
Do i need another chainsaw ?
- Thread starter Dacha
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I personally don't use a longer bar than needed. When my back starts hurting, I get on my knees, when they start hurting. I take a break.
Sidecarflip
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I agree but I never bite anyway. I find him entertaining but that is about all but then I find a lot of YT creators entertaining and some just downright boring. Especially the ones that are long winded.
One thing that I find 'entertaining' is watching a video where the creator don't realize what the camera sees. The camera sees all, not just the at hand subject.
Working what I call spikes, your 8-10" trees with little upper branch structure;
Keep a round or two handy, fell ONTO the rounds. Keeps a bunch of the trunk off the ground.
I'm no firewood maven, but doing volunteer work and watching newby's, it's WAY too common to see folks all bent over but NOT having the dogs in the wood. Now you are bent over AND holding up the saw. The idea is to support your upper body with the top handle and lever the saw up/blade down with the rear handle, pivoting on the dogs.
I'll repeat: Keep the saw dogs on the log! Now you are supporting your upper body with your arms/hands/the saw dog/trunk. It's not hard to work bent over "for a while" if you are supported. You should at least have a saw with metal dogs.
If you aren't "wondering how to pay for your next meal", A pro class saw is one of the few "investments" you can buy new.
Coming battery tech may change that a bit. But compared to health, back issues a pro saw is cheap anyways.
Keep a round or two handy, fell ONTO the rounds. Keeps a bunch of the trunk off the ground.
I'm no firewood maven, but doing volunteer work and watching newby's, it's WAY too common to see folks all bent over but NOT having the dogs in the wood. Now you are bent over AND holding up the saw. The idea is to support your upper body with the top handle and lever the saw up/blade down with the rear handle, pivoting on the dogs.
I'll repeat: Keep the saw dogs on the log! Now you are supporting your upper body with your arms/hands/the saw dog/trunk. It's not hard to work bent over "for a while" if you are supported. You should at least have a saw with metal dogs.
If you aren't "wondering how to pay for your next meal", A pro class saw is one of the few "investments" you can buy new.
Coming battery tech may change that a bit. But compared to health, back issues a pro saw is cheap anyways.
Don't dismiss his act for his skill at dropping trees. I just watched one of his latest video's where he dropped a 4ft maple into a hole next to a shed I'd never attempt. You can't fake or edit that.
He tries to be entertaining to keep viewers on the channel but his methods are very sound.
I started watching Buckin Billy Ray on Youtube, he seems like a skilled climber (to me) and good at felling and bucking. He's got some good tutorials on chain sharpening too.
He doesn't seem to do much in terms of tearing down, rebuilding and fixing saws though, his usual method of getting an old McCulloch running is to dump gas in it and pull it over until it starts running and then just keep working the sucker haha.
I do like the dude, he's entertaining.
He doesn't seem to do much in terms of tearing down, rebuilding and fixing saws though, his usual method of getting an old McCulloch running is to dump gas in it and pull it over until it starts running and then just keep working the sucker haha.
I do like the dude, he's entertaining.
Sidecarflip
Addicted to ArboristSite
Never said he wasn't skilled, he is and I get a kick out of his folksy demeanor. Having said that, I view his video's once in a while. Like 'Guilty of Treeson. Those guys are good as well. On the bucking spike (dog) subject, if the loop is properly dressed and the depth gages set properly, the loop will self feed 99% of the time and all the dogs do is speed up the rate of removal and provide a fulcrum point to enhance the cutting action, most times to the point of bogging down the powerhead. My Echo CS top jandle saw has no dogs on it, never has and not needed.
I like BBR and watch a lot of his videos, I was just trying to point out some of his tips and technics dont work for a lot of people. Plus im sure he just bucks up some stuff and leaves it in the woods to make videos, no way he's carrying firewood a 100 or so feet to his truck by hand lol.
I like to get the wood up off the ground and buck it up with a short bar, I find this easy, there's a bunch of easy ways to do it too, my go to is to set the log on top of other firewood.
I like to get the wood up off the ground and buck it up with a short bar, I find this easy, there's a bunch of easy ways to do it too, my go to is to set the log on top of other firewood.
exactly.
That's what it is, those kind of trees, those kind of situations. Way too often bent unsupported on sloped terrain.
First time i picked up a chainsaw was 4 yrs ago. Some low speed 40v which later broke down, than i moved to gas. So still learning. Thanks.
Mine would pull a 20" just fine. But, even woods ported didn't have the power the newer "60" cc saws have, let alone getting a 562xp or ms400 ported, both of which pull a 24" in hardwoods in factory trim rather well. I have nothing again the 357/9, and it will always be one of my favorite saws, but slinging a long bar on just because is stupid. Besides that, those saws already like to break around the pto side front iso mount. They don't need anymore stress on the case in that area then what a 18"-20" bar gives them. My 359, I have actually has a repair I dreamed up at the machine shop after that ear broke off. Fairly common in both saws from the amount of them I worked on during that time period. Few of them got the same fix I did to mine. Just the nature of the beast.
