I am going to be 100% honest in saying I have not read through all the replies and posts in the thread. I just saw the title in new posts. I will answer it this way a Dan Henry 346 not sure if he is still around but 20 years ago built a mean 346
Does Husqvarna have an equivalent to Stihl's 026?
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It all depends on your conditions and size of wood. Some of the hardwoods we have, have many large long limbs below the top suspended up in the air up to several feet when the tree has been felled.t Most of those I cut 16inch firewood lengths up there to stay out of the dirt . There is a limit to how fast a person can manuever and hold weight with arms stretched outward. When the saw is in the wood it is holding near all the weight of the saw, your muscles are relaxing some while the weight of the saw is on the wood so your like coasting on a bicycle. When it exits you are catching the weight when coming out the bottom and your body bears the weight and motion until you have the saw on top the wood again. Faster the saw goes, the faster the operator goes with less time coasting. Like if you are running faster you get tired faster and normally can't run as far.
Bucking up a big log on the ground this applies little in big wood cause the length of time in the cut is significantly longer and holding the saw with your arms extended downward is much easier not working the body as hard and fast so the operator can benefit from the speed without easily exhausting himself or his muscles.
If it was 10 inch wood and under, I would feel more comfortable with a 260. Most my wood cutting i have to set the saw down, move brush and or wood then saw over and over . I get annoyed when 346's lay over and play dead on me most the time i set them down. Less of a strain reaching for an upright chainsaw and the angle of the handlebar fits me more comfortably also. For some reason the 346's with 16 or 18 inch bars like to go for my toes. I nicked my shoes numerous times with them and seldom have with stihls.
Actually I prefer my 025 for that small of wood. It's light, snappy and plenty fast in wood in the 10in range.
Bigger wood I would pick the 346's for the power advantage . If I had a choice it would be with a 20in bar. My toes are safer and my back prefers 20in or more especially with Husqvarnas.
Thankfully for bigger wood I have a spread of saws up to a 395xp which i barely use but it cuts big wood so fast I hate to part with it as long as i can start and handle it.
Hey BW, one thing I have to remind myself over and over when browsing these forums is that the majority of posters here are tree-service type folk, often doing residential work. Less of us here are working in the woods/brush.
My experience with those types of cutters/workers (the residential type) is they have a set way of doing things and generally don't stray far from it. There is little experimentation on the job, seeing what works and what doesn't. Whereas in the woods, necessity often affects strategies. Lots of folks would never dream of slash-cutting a tree, walking one down, log after log, or using pie cuts to bring the tree back, especially towards oneself. Most won't ever intentionally barber chair a tree (there's a time and a place where it's the safest option for the sawyer and/or an obstacle) or nip away at the face-side holding wood to make a tree spin.
Limbing also falls into this category. Most people won't cut a limb bringing the saw towards themselves in order to not have to reposition. They would reposition their stance and grip and cut away from themselves like normal.
As well, some people refuse to cut over their shoulders. Some have it ingrained how "dangerous" it is.
So I can see what you are saying, but can get why others may not.
My experience with those types of cutters/workers (the residential type) is they have a set way of doing things and generally don't stray far from it. There is little experimentation on the job, seeing what works and what doesn't. Whereas in the woods, necessity often affects strategies. Lots of folks would never dream of slash-cutting a tree, walking one down, log after log, or using pie cuts to bring the tree back, especially towards oneself. Most won't ever intentionally barber chair a tree (there's a time and a place where it's the safest option for the sawyer and/or an obstacle) or nip away at the face-side holding wood to make a tree spin.
Limbing also falls into this category. Most people won't cut a limb bringing the saw towards themselves in order to not have to reposition. They would reposition their stance and grip and cut away from themselves like normal.
As well, some people refuse to cut over their shoulders. Some have it ingrained how "dangerous" it is.
So I can see what you are saying, but can get why others may not.
I think you have alot of problems technique wise...
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Gone fishing
And you clean it with bourbon, that's one happy saw for sure.
That would be an expensive cleaner
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Gone fishing
Jezynowka = Polish blackberry brandy.
The poor empty bottle got lonely so I fitted it with a sprayer
No argument on bar legnth, just used to running a smaller saw with it. 254, 242, 246, with a 15" was the standard setup for my father and myself back east. A 266 with a 16 feels a hell of alot heavier than a 242 with a 15 after you have been limbing for a while. Definitely more than it says on paper.
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Gone fishing
2,8 to 3 kw will pull an 18", otherwise it would be better with a 13 to 15" Id say.
I can't figure out how cutting wood faster is going to be less body movement and exertion . I do and have done a lot of different types of woodcutting, more felling and bucking up firewood then any, substantial ground work for a few small to medium tree services, clearing overgrown drainage ditches and fence rows, this and that. Unless i am using something less then my 025, the saws seem capable of a higher pace then I am in smallish wood. On ditch banks , especially when froze or wet , manuevers to and from trees is treacherous and the harder part of the work. Sawing through the tree is more like taking a brake. Quicker I get through, the sooner i am on the move and that is nothing like taking your escape route on flat ground. You don't want to be tuckered out trying to move to safety. Some times the saw gets tossed to save self.
It's all in the technique. The faster you cut the sooner the job is done.
Sorry just had to pull this one out again....
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That a horse or a mule he is flogging? Either way- it looks dead.
I was going to suggest they get a room.
Supposed to be a horse.....That a horse or a mule he is flogging? Either way- it looks dead.
I was going to suggest they get a room.
