cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
yikes.
Does this need splitting again?
- Thread starter blkcloud
- Start date
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Here are some homemade steel pallets that were put together from scrap. They dried well. Got heat for about a month.
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This was stacked tight and no problems burning. Granted it is Silver maple, some say it sucks, but hey, I heated house for a month.
This was stacked tight and no problems burning. Granted it is Silver maple, some say it sucks, but hey, I heated house for a month.
SteveSS
Addicted to ArboristSite
What appliance do you burn your wood in? At my house, I'd leave those splits just the way they are and burn them next year in the OWB.
OWB
For my indoor wood stove I would not resplit the piece that has the triangle on it but would re-split the piece to its left.
Oh it was well supervised, my wife video'd it by the house while I watched with a beer, if it got out of control. It did not get out of control......
I see a hydraulic chainsaw, looks like a mini processor, I like it. Got anymore pics? What you run it off of?
SteveSS
Addicted to ArboristSite
Roll with it. You're golden. When the temps drop down to single digits, you'll appreciate the coal bed in the morning,
The smaller you split it, the faster it burns.
Here is my processor build.. The last video is the finished project.. If they ever do get finished.. Lol
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...essor-build-pictures-finally-finished.251912/
SWI Don
ArboristSite Guru
White oak is a pretty slow seasoner. The stuff i'm burning now is 4 years old since I cut and split it. It sat outside in a stack outside of the wood shed until last summer. I would figure 2 years on white oak unless you split it real small. Think bundled firewood small.
You do live in TN which will help as your ave temp is higher but your ave humidity is probably also higher than mine.
You are going to want to put those totes outside in the sun and breeze to get them to dry. I've had no luck drying wood in an open front pole building with solid sides. I probably moved mulberry around in the past in my wood shed because it was too wet to burn for 3 years before it was ok. (I do have a catalytic stove so it has to be dry) where as mulberry wood on top of the hill in a pile will be ready in a year.
You do live in TN which will help as your ave temp is higher but your ave humidity is probably also higher than mine.
You are going to want to put those totes outside in the sun and breeze to get them to dry. I've had no luck drying wood in an open front pole building with solid sides. I probably moved mulberry around in the past in my wood shed because it was too wet to burn for 3 years before it was ok. (I do have a catalytic stove so it has to be dry) where as mulberry wood on top of the hill in a pile will be ready in a year.
livemusic
ArboristSite Operative
Your video -- http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...s-finally-finished.251912/page-4#post-5649699
Hope I posted that right, lol.
I also say yank the plastic out and just use the outside cages. More air flow, easier to get them out without tipping it over when near the bottom, unless you got really long arms!
Oak usually takes two to three years to properly season. If you throw one in next winter and it sizzles more than burns, then you'll know it needs another year or two.
lindnova
ArboristSite Operative
If your OWB is not an epa gasser one year would be fine. I usually wait 2 for oak, but am ahead. I have a neighbor with a Heat Source One that cuts 100% bur oak in July and burns the next winter. He goes through a lot more wood than I do and I burn a lot of junk wood.
My Heatmor works best with big splits like you have and about 25% moisture - 2 years of drying for bur oak.
My Heatmor works best with big splits like you have and about 25% moisture - 2 years of drying for bur oak.
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