MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Good to hear that you're liking the saw. I like Windsor chain and use a fair amount of semi chisel in 3/8". It's one of the best semi chisel chains I've used.
Dolmar 5105 questions.
- Thread starter bsheldon
- Start date
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Good to hear that you're liking the saw. I like Windsor chain and use a fair amount of semi chisel in 3/8". It's one of the best semi chisel chains I've used.
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
it's good to hear about a good attentive dealer
thats what these saws need.
thats what these saws need.
Adirondack
ArboristSite Operative
Try some LGX oregon.
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
yes, lgx is good chain. I also like lpx, good cutting and smooth.The narrow rakers are easy to file too.
bsheldon
ArboristSite Lurker
My rep really likes the Widsor chain--I'm smart enough to know that really doesn't mean anything other than that is what he sells, but this was my first time using it and I am very pleased. He gave me two loops with the saw--So I'm real glad I like it. I couldn't have survived with the stock chain. Hopefully, the Windsor last long enough I won't be in the market for any new chain for quite some time--I was down to 1 loop for my old primary saw 3 years ago and I bought 2 new ones--Oregon--I'm not positive which one--it is 20" .325 with the "safety" bumps--and it cut much better than than the previous couple of loops that I had. I really like RSC from Stihl and would have bought that if the dealer didn't work with me on chain. Again, I am very pleased with Windsor.
I have the inlaws coming over this weekend and it rained its azz off today so I probably wouldn't have gotten much cutting done even they weren't. That big orange Husky job box has been talking to me though. I can hear the 5105calling for some more wood to cut up. I really have the monster pile chewed up in good sized chunks--now the real work begins--splitting and stacking--not nearly as fun as making piles of chips. There is one big dead oak at the top of the hill behind my house that will drop in the next couple of weeks to have some more fun with. At this rate I may not have the excuse that I need more wood come fall. I already have about 2 cords of seasoned, split and stacked oak. I usually use about 5-6 a year. I have at least one on the ground in chunks at my cabin now and more than that in my yard cut up now. Oh well, I am sure I will think of something. I usually go through about 2-3 a year at the cabin. We might just have to keep the windows open and keep the stove packed beacause I am going to have plenty of wood cut with this new "tool." I told the wife we absolutely had to have it so I always call it a tool and never a toy--even as much as I enjoy it.
I have the inlaws coming over this weekend and it rained its azz off today so I probably wouldn't have gotten much cutting done even they weren't. That big orange Husky job box has been talking to me though. I can hear the 5105calling for some more wood to cut up. I really have the monster pile chewed up in good sized chunks--now the real work begins--splitting and stacking--not nearly as fun as making piles of chips. There is one big dead oak at the top of the hill behind my house that will drop in the next couple of weeks to have some more fun with. At this rate I may not have the excuse that I need more wood come fall. I already have about 2 cords of seasoned, split and stacked oak. I usually use about 5-6 a year. I have at least one on the ground in chunks at my cabin now and more than that in my yard cut up now. Oh well, I am sure I will think of something. I usually go through about 2-3 a year at the cabin. We might just have to keep the windows open and keep the stove packed beacause I am going to have plenty of wood cut with this new "tool." I told the wife we absolutely had to have it so I always call it a tool and never a toy--even as much as I enjoy it.
Adirondack
ArboristSite Operative
bsheldon
ArboristSite Lurker
7900
Believe me, i have had many thoughts about the 7900. It is just more saw than I need or would really be comfortable speding that much on. Let alone the small little fact that anything too big for the 5105 is wood bigger than I should be dealing with in the first place. I do not have any equipment for moving 2000lb logs and 300lb chunks of wood. I get enough flack from people for picking up the 200 pounders that I do. I don't really come across wood that big too often--although last year 2 monsters fell near my cabin that are right on the road, but they would need at least a 28" bar to get around them. Again though, once cut up into rounds--they would still weigh more than I should be trying to deal with by hand. So I keep driving right past about 4 cords worth of perfect wood and explain to myself how sensible I am being by not getting the 7900. The 5105 with a 20 gets me through wood that is already at the upper limits of being dealt with by hand.
90% of what I cut is already dead. I do minimal "trimming." Almost exclusively felling and than bucking it up into manageble pieces for transport and then the real fun begins at home--wacking and stacking. I get some sort of zen high from beating the ever living heck out of stumps the old fashioned way--with a maul. Most of my buddies give me a lot of flack for not renting or buying a splitter, but I enjoy it.
Believe me, i have had many thoughts about the 7900. It is just more saw than I need or would really be comfortable speding that much on. Let alone the small little fact that anything too big for the 5105 is wood bigger than I should be dealing with in the first place. I do not have any equipment for moving 2000lb logs and 300lb chunks of wood. I get enough flack from people for picking up the 200 pounders that I do. I don't really come across wood that big too often--although last year 2 monsters fell near my cabin that are right on the road, but they would need at least a 28" bar to get around them. Again though, once cut up into rounds--they would still weigh more than I should be trying to deal with by hand. So I keep driving right past about 4 cords worth of perfect wood and explain to myself how sensible I am being by not getting the 7900. The 5105 with a 20 gets me through wood that is already at the upper limits of being dealt with by hand.
90% of what I cut is already dead. I do minimal "trimming." Almost exclusively felling and than bucking it up into manageble pieces for transport and then the real fun begins at home--wacking and stacking. I get some sort of zen high from beating the ever living heck out of stumps the old fashioned way--with a maul. Most of my buddies give me a lot of flack for not renting or buying a splitter, but I enjoy it.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
It is quite pleasing to hear somebody on AS not actually wanting 50 saws to do one saw's job
Well said 
Termite
Time To Launch
It has been so hot I won't even pick my saw up. If I had to I would but I don't have to.
bsheldon
ArboristSite Lurker
Straight Gassed my Dolmar
Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I couldn't figure out how to do a new post with the "credits" and "puchasing." I started this thread originally about this exact saw. So, I think this is the least offensive way to do revive an old thread.
We just moved to a new house and somehow my gas cans got switched and I ran a tank of straight gas through my Dolmar PS-5105.
It just started acting like it was running out of gas and wouldn't idle for it's last few seconds of life. It kind of just stopped and then wouldn't re-start. There wasn't a clunk or bang or anything drasitc or major. There doesn't seem to be any compression left when I pulled it again, though. That's it when I realized what I had just done.
I bought it 3 years ago when the 5105 first came out. I wanted the 5100, but they were gone when I had the cash in hand at my dealer. I really like the 5105, lots of torque for a small saw, super, super easy to start, purrs like, well, not like a kitten becuase it kind of has a V-twin growl to it at idle, and revs up nice and pulls hard in big stuff. I have somwhere in the neighborhood of 15-20 cords of oak cut up with it. I had planned on using and keeping this saw basically forever. And now this.
I am failry handy; I have done some basic repairs on a few lawn mowers, boat engines, four-wheelers, and have done a couple of tranny swaps and engine swaps on trucks before, I even kept my crappy old Poulan running for at least a 1-2 years longer than it probably should have gone. So, I know my way around a toolbox, but I have never dealt with the inner workings of an engine before. Like I said, I really like this saw and would like to keep it if the money is still way less than getting the a new Stihl MS261.
So, my questions are these:
What needs to be replaced after being straight gassed? Is it just a new piston assembly? Other parts?
How difficult of a task is it? Do I need special tools?
I did a quick search and found some 54cc piston replacements for my saw. That intrigued me as bigger is always better, right? Can I / Should I just get another Dolmar piston?
What am I looking at dollar-wise if I take it back to the dealer to have him do it? Is he going to get a genuine Dolmar piston or is he going to buy a brand that I could buy?
I'm leaning toward just letting my dealer fix it--that way I'm sure it will run right again, but if he is going to charge me anywhere around $300 it may not be worth it. If I have to sink that much money back into this saw, the new Stihl MS 261 might start to call my name.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I couldn't figure out how to do a new post with the "credits" and "puchasing." I started this thread originally about this exact saw. So, I think this is the least offensive way to do revive an old thread.
We just moved to a new house and somehow my gas cans got switched and I ran a tank of straight gas through my Dolmar PS-5105.
It just started acting like it was running out of gas and wouldn't idle for it's last few seconds of life. It kind of just stopped and then wouldn't re-start. There wasn't a clunk or bang or anything drasitc or major. There doesn't seem to be any compression left when I pulled it again, though. That's it when I realized what I had just done.
I bought it 3 years ago when the 5105 first came out. I wanted the 5100, but they were gone when I had the cash in hand at my dealer. I really like the 5105, lots of torque for a small saw, super, super easy to start, purrs like, well, not like a kitten becuase it kind of has a V-twin growl to it at idle, and revs up nice and pulls hard in big stuff. I have somwhere in the neighborhood of 15-20 cords of oak cut up with it. I had planned on using and keeping this saw basically forever. And now this.
I am failry handy; I have done some basic repairs on a few lawn mowers, boat engines, four-wheelers, and have done a couple of tranny swaps and engine swaps on trucks before, I even kept my crappy old Poulan running for at least a 1-2 years longer than it probably should have gone. So, I know my way around a toolbox, but I have never dealt with the inner workings of an engine before. Like I said, I really like this saw and would like to keep it if the money is still way less than getting the a new Stihl MS261.
So, my questions are these:
What needs to be replaced after being straight gassed? Is it just a new piston assembly? Other parts?
How difficult of a task is it? Do I need special tools?
I did a quick search and found some 54cc piston replacements for my saw. That intrigued me as bigger is always better, right? Can I / Should I just get another Dolmar piston?
What am I looking at dollar-wise if I take it back to the dealer to have him do it? Is he going to get a genuine Dolmar piston or is he going to buy a brand that I could buy?
I'm leaning toward just letting my dealer fix it--that way I'm sure it will run right again, but if he is going to charge me anywhere around $300 it may not be worth it. If I have to sink that much money back into this saw, the new Stihl MS 261 might start to call my name.
Thanks in advance for your help.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
That sure is a pain! Since you have not evaluated the damage it is impossible to say what you might need. Pull it apart and make a lot of pictures and post them on here. A lot of guys will chime in and help out.
The damage might be minor were only a new piston and rings are needed. You might have to get the aluminum transfer off the cylinder with acid. But it would be a real quick fix. As long as you didn't run it like that for a few gas tanks it should be easily salvagable.
The Stihl 261 is a very nice saw but quite a bit more $ than the Dolmar. There are many alternatives out there that might be more interesting!
Good luck!
7
The damage might be minor were only a new piston and rings are needed. You might have to get the aluminum transfer off the cylinder with acid. But it would be a real quick fix. As long as you didn't run it like that for a few gas tanks it should be easily salvagable.
The Stihl 261 is a very nice saw but quite a bit more $ than the Dolmar. There are many alternatives out there that might be more interesting!
Good luck!
7
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
As 7 said, pop the P&C off to check out the damage, any parts can be sourced from a number of Dolmar dealers who are members on here and it shouldn't be too hard to fix, even if you aren't overly familiar with being on the tools.
If you really do need a new 50cc saw I'd be looking at a Husky 550XP rather than a Stihl and PM me re the 5105, it'd make a nice addition to the Dolmak fleet here
If you really do need a new 50cc saw I'd be looking at a Husky 550XP rather than a Stihl and PM me re the 5105, it'd make a nice addition to the Dolmak fleet here
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
At best you'll just need a new ring and a bit of wet and dry sandpaper to get the molten bits of aluminium off the piston and cylinder walls.
At worst you'll need a whole new piston and cylinder assembly.
Highly unlikely that it ran dry long enough to damage crank bearings but certainly possible.
Even if you have trouble working out how to fix it there are a HEAP of members here to help and it is a saw well worth fixing.
Although I'd buy it for $200
I miss my 5100-S and wish I never sold it ...
At worst you'll need a whole new piston and cylinder assembly.
Highly unlikely that it ran dry long enough to damage crank bearings but certainly possible.
Even if you have trouble working out how to fix it there are a HEAP of members here to help and it is a saw well worth fixing.
Although I'd buy it for $200
I miss my 5100-S and wish I never sold it ...
SawTroll
Information Collector
If you really do need a new 50cc saw I'd be looking at a Husky 550XP rather than a Stihl and PM me re the 5105, it'd make a nice addition to the Dolmak fleet here
:agree2: That's pretty obvious, for several reasons - and just forget the 5105 as well, unless it is mainly a price issue! :msp_wink:
SawTroll
Information Collector
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
The 550XP is an absolute weapon. All Husqvarna need to do is sort out that crap filtration setup and fit better falling spikes (or at least have an option available!).
I haven't sold mine, but that's just because it was Witchys saw!
I know you love the old 346XP Niko (who doesn't!) and I certainly respect you for hanging onto Witchy's saw. Surely though you like at least something about the 5100-S? I know each to their own but the only bad thing I found with mine was that the filter was garbage (like the 550XP) and it had 200psi without a compression release. It could be a pig to start.
With a better filter and a comp release it was perfect for me in the 50cc category. My worst mistake was buying an MS261 and thinking it would be a better saw
Even my Husky 353 was better than the 261 - by a long way!
SawTroll
Information Collector
The 550XP is an absolute weapon. All Husqvarna need to do is sort out that crap filtration setup and fit better falling spikes (or at least have an option available!).
I know you love the old 346XP Niko (who doesn't!) and I certainly respect you for hanging onto Witchy's saw. Surely though you like at least something about the 5100-S? I know each to their own but the only bad thing I found with mine was that the filter was garbage (like the 550XP) and it had 200psi without a compression release. It could be a pig to start.
With a better filter and a comp release it was perfect for me in the 50cc category. My worst mistake was buying an MS261 and thinking it would be a better saw
Even my Husky 353 was better than the 261 - by a long way!
The inboard clutch/clumcy handling and the lax throttle response makes the 5100 etc less than ideal for limbing, and you gain some weight over the 346xp/550xp, without any gain in performance (or anything really).
Also, the air filtration is much better on the 346xp than on the 5100S - but that isn't really a biggie where I am (clean and green wood).
Imo, both the 50cc Dolmars and the MS261 is better suited for blocking up firewood logs than they are for use in the woods, where a 50cc saw really should "shine"!
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
The inboard clutch/clumcy handling and the lax throttle response makes the 5100 etc less than ideal for limbing, and you gain some weight over the 346xp/550xp, without any gain in performance (or anything really).
Also, the air filtration is much better on the 346xp than on the 5100S - but that isn't really a biggie where I am (clean and green wood).
Imo, both the 50cc Dolmars and the MS261 is better suited for blocking up firewood logs than they are for use in the woods, where a 50cc saw really should "shine"!
I know where you're coming from Niko but the 550XP isn't really relevant as it is a lot newer design with a hell of a lot more technology. There is absolutely no comparison between a 550XP's performance compared to any other stock saw I've used. I did notice sluggish off idle throttle response with my 5100-S when I first got it but I simply richened up the L jet which fixed that.
